Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: EdwardS on January 09, 2020, 06:40:51 pm
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I have a very, very nice white oak stave-7' long, about two inches wide and clear of all knots, already debarked and dried for 7-8 months. I've been doing a fair bit of research, though I'm unable to find exactly what I'm looking for. I'm looking for a build-a-long on a Southeastern Woodlands style d bow. I figure I have enough length to handle my draw, even with leaving the distinct nocks they are known for. I'd like to get one under my belt before I try a recreation of my great-grandfather's bow, which was sinew-backed cypress. I can get cypress next town over, but it's soft and easy to mess up, so I figured I'd recreate one of the war bows of the Mvskoke as practice.
I remember Coo-Wah-Chobee's Seminole project, but the pictures are all gone. I can read and follow directions, but pictures help a lot. I'm not sure I'm ready to start immediately, as ideally I'd like a drawknife to work this oak with. But I'm not sure I can figure out the tapers on my own, and this stave is essentially perfect. I'm not sure I'll find another one this good this year.
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Try Jawge's site. He has info about a similar style of bendy handle bow.`
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Regardless of what style bow you want to make the wood will tell you if the tiller is correct.
A set piece of wood at a given thickness can only bend so far without taking set. A thinner piece can bend further and a thicker piece less.
You want no set at all in the middle/inner limbs, a little mid limb and the rest out to the tips.
Essentially that is all you need to know to build any bow.
Find out what the width profile is and length then go from there.
Maybe get a copy of Traditional Bowyers Bible with the chapter about 'tiller logic'.
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Don't touch the middle 1/3 of the bow until the last. I like to get the middle bending as I come towards full draw. Most of the leverage is in the middle and if that part bends too soon it will show as more set.
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This type of bow can’t possibly have an in depth how to. It’ s a long flat stick tapered a little in width and thickness from the middle.
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I agree with patM. Its hard to go too in depth with something that is simple in theory. just listen to others tillering advise and make it an elliptical, bend in handle bow.
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Tiller the bow as per usual. when you are within 4 or 5 inches of full draw, begin working the handle until it begins to just flex. Dont let it bend too much in the handle, especially early in the tiller. Save the handle for last and work the bend into and along with the finishing of the last few inches.
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ok ,, if you start,, and post pictures,, you will get in depth how to input for sure,, :)
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Thanks, Pat B.
There is a red oak board bow build along on my site. EdwardS, you did not mention your target weight or draw length.
You can narrow the width mentioned in the build along depending on the draw weight you want.
Typically, Native American bows did not have narrowed handles IMHO. The handle was the widest part.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/boardbowbuildalong.html
Jawge