Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Russ on August 20, 2019, 05:14:39 pm
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I need help getting thes fades more tapered into the bow. Or more fluid, i just dont know how to go about doing it
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Best I can describe it is to just feather the limb into the fade. It will be left too thick initially which is fine. Don’t get them bending until you are farther into the build. Once the midlimbs are working you can begin to rasp down the limb at the transition until it begins to give a little. Very little. If it bends too early into the fades you run the risk of coming in light.
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A half round Nicholson used with a sort of scooping sweep diagonally across the fade. Practice. with a scrap of wood
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i like the fade portion to be slight concaved. It helps with fading it in with the limb really well imo and i just like the over all look of it.
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Stickmark 7.0 used to not have much bend in the fades. (A) Stickmark 10.0 is beginning to understand the fades.
IOW, I would go for a less steep angle, IMHO.
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I initially roughy them out sort of share angled like you have. Then is use the edge of the finer side of the ferriers rasp to curve them just like Nasr. I rasp up the fades towards the handle. Being gentle on the off side your pushing towards so you don’t tear out any splinters that you’ll have to fix.
Kyle
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Cut out a curved template for a 2 ,2 and half , and 3 inch fades. Lay it down on the bow, and scribe the lines. Cut with the rasp of your choice to your template lines using a finer rasps as you go, and finish off with rough to fine sand paper. Practice on a scrap piece of wood. Soon you will be able to cut a nice fade with out the template, and if you are not sure of your self you always have the template to check your work as you go.
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A lot of beginners dish out the area where the fade meets the limb and make a weak spot, use caution if you rasp from handle to limb.
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Eric and I are making the same point I think. Be cautious of wood removal at the fades! I personally only get them close to size in the beginning. It matters little what they look like as I don’t want them to move at all early on. Once the bow is pullin 15 inches or so I will start getting it to move up closer to the fades. The last few inches is where I get it moving right up to the fade. Now the form will follow the function.
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They don't loo too bad. When I long string tiller I make sure the area after the fades starts to move.
I usually use a scraper like tool there.
Sometimes it takes me hours.
Jawge
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When working the fades work from the limb up towards the handle like others have said but also work from the edge inward toward the center of the limb/fade/handle. I like to scribe a line along the limb sides to help me control the limb thickness. I also take this line across the side of the handle area to help me keep both limbs about even thickness. This will also help to guide you with the fades. This thickness can be different from one limb to the other after final tillering but is is a good reference while you're tillering.
The fades are the transition between the non-working handle and the working limb so the bend should come into the fades smoothly and evenly.
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Those aren't too bad at all. I've seen much worse. I guess I'm the odd ball here. I prefer to work mine from the grip into the limbs. A half round rasp is the easiest way to not dig a hole.
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Well, on the "oddball" thingy...Who knows... 8) But on this, I also work mine handle to limb. I facet a line and rasp on the diagonal from both sides, leaving it thicker in the middle. Then I will start to take that down as I need. BTW, just an observation, everyone, and I mean in total. Everyone I have ever met that is really into this stuff, "Primitive Technology", marches to their own drummer. Myself among them.
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Eric, I have a good friend that was making weak spots at the fades. He had no idea he was doing it. He screwed up some nice Osage staves ,and was disgusted, so I made him a template. He is doing fine now, and knows what to look for.
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Russell are you worried about the shape of the handle or the shape of the fades where they met the working limb.
I might be odd ball to but they look good to me where they meet limb.
The rest of the handle needs some refinement.
I always wait till I'm almost done tillering my bows to narrow up my handle and shape it the way I like it. I do rough out the slope of the fade where it meets the limb during tiller. The rest I leave clunky and wide so I can clamp it in vice while working on the rest of tho bow.
I'm actually suspecting that I roughed that one out. When I'm ready to finish my handle the first thing I do is draw some crude lines for where I'd like to narrow it to. Starting slightly in from where fade meets limb I draw a line fading sideways into a narrow handle. If your string tracks slightly to one side or the other you can favor that side as you narrow handle. Also if your going to put in a arrow shelf now the time to mark it out. Make sure you put it on the proper side and top of handle. Yah I learned that the hard way.lol I like rounded edges and I think everyone has a favorite feel and look. I like a grip that when I draw bow the pressure point is right in the crock of my thumb where it meets my hand. I prefer to make this area slightly narrower and also make a depression that puts the crock of my thumb in the same spot every time. The lower part of my handle I like slightly wider it seems to feel goodto me and keeps my wrist a little further away from string. I use my rasp and bastard file to get it to fit and look the way I like.
It's been awhile since I did a handle I'll see if I have any pictures
Bjrogg
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I don't know if you can see it but if you notice the different woods they all get narrower as they move towards belly side of handle. Also entire handle narrows sweeping back from the fades. Make sure you leave enough stiff area to not let fade bend but as long as your a little thicker you should be able to narrow it without it bending. If you look just below the tiny knot in the juniper you might notice it's slightly narrower and a small depression that the crock of my thumb fits in.
Bjrogg
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Here is another picture of the same handle during the shaping process
Bjrogg
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you can also not make your handles as deep, this will allow a more gradual taper and not appear to be as abrupt
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I put guidelines on my limbs to keep them even side to side and start the lines at the end of the fades. If I stay above my guidelines I can't mess up a fade transition.
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Exactly Eric. That's why I'm wondering if Russell is actually talking about where fade meets limb or handle part of fade. I wouldn't remove anymore wood at the point limb and fades meet. Not without being very careful not to develop a hinge there. It looks close enough to that line you would draw and stay above to me already.
If you just don't like the angles of the fades, I'd change them on the handle side of the fades not the limb side.
Bjrogg
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Oh sorry i was talking about the angle of the fade and if it was too agressive. i started taking off of the handle part to make the angle better and i was also worried if the limb was too thin. i think i got both of my answers so i will finish the floor tiller and then heat treat. sorry that i didnt get back sooner i had a lecture to listent to. i always like to keep this tab open though! :)
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Looks like I am in good company, PD. :) Jawge
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I consider this an ideal fade angle, especially with a glued on handle.