Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: zoomer on July 22, 2019, 07:43:49 am
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I am sorry to ask this but I couldn't find any info on this. Where does the "ruler" start counting inches on the tillering stick? I currently have mine count right from the top end of the shelf where the bow sits.
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first off I wouldn't use a tillering stick .. I use a tillering tree with cable.. I count from throat of grip.. where hand sits... gut
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I go from the back of my handles. They are all about the same thickness so my ruler is permanently attached to my tiller tree. If your handles are different thicknesses you can make the rule adjustable.
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From the back of the bow for English longbows and primitives/wooden bows IMO.
Out of interest, this is a potentially a big source of problems like bows being broken by overdrawing.
The AMO (Archery Manufacturers Organisation) standard for "modern" bows states that draw length is measured from the throat PLUS 1.75" ... which roughly equates to the back of the bow (or where the clicker would be on a target bow)
I recently had a bow smashed >:( by someone drawing it on a test rig to supposedly 28" ... but they were measuring to the belly :o and so actually pulling to about 29.25" when measured to the back.
The rule on my tiller set up has slots in it so I can adjust it up or down to suit.
Del
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Just remember...a bow fully drawn is 9/10ths broken!
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Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Looks like my first bow will be a little underweight... I'll post it when (if?) it's made.
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If your first bow is just a little under weight you can consider yourself successful. :OK
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I do use a tiller stick. But I use a tree as well. On my tree I have the yard stick attached with a squeeze clamp so that it can be adjusted for each bow. “0” is the back of the handle.
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I measure draw length to the back the bow. Jawge
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Ack! I just epically busted a bow making this dumb mistake (I accidentally overdrew it past even where I thought it was full draw, but it was actually a little inch longer draw length than I thought as I was measuring 0 at the belly oops!) Good to know from now on!! (Yes, I will post a series of my shame soon haha! I'm attempting to make bows out of sourwood staves I've had for years, and I have had no idea what I was doing, so we are at 3/5 broken bows so far! 2 of those Miiiight be fixable we'll see)
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I'm another that measures from the back of the bow. I think the AMO draw length confuses people who are coming from a compound, or fg background, leads to potential overdrawing, as mentioned earlier.
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Back of the bow seems to be a pretty well established standard for bows of this kind. I rarely hear of someone measuring from the belly side of the handle.
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I measure mine using the AMO method, 1.75" in front of the deepest part of the grip. That way they're all measured, tillered, and weighed the same, regardless of grip shape or depth. If I make a bow for someone else, when they tell me their draw length, I ask them how they measured it, then do likewise to tiller and check weight.
You don't have to use the AMO thing, especially if they're just for your own use, but you should measure and tiller your bows on the tillering tree or stick, the same way you measure your draw length when drawing it by hand.
By the way, I always design and tiller bows at least an inch farther than what they're intended to be shot at for a bit of a safety cushion.
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By the way, I always design and tiller bows at least an inch farther than what they're intended to be shot at for a bit of a safety cushion.
Not picking on you DWS, your words were just convenient :D. I've wondered about this extra inch for a safety cushion. If a bow is nicely tillered, why is it likely to break in the next inch. Granted, it does prove that the bow will go the extra inch but isn't it likely that it will. When you're tillering for maximum DW, as in a warbow there is a chance that you may not remove any wood after, say, 24" DL. All you do is keep pulling until you reach 32", or whatever. What is the difference between this and not bothering to go the extra inch.
It's a little gray area in my thinking that's often bothered me.
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I usually tiller my bows to 28" for my 26" draw for the same reason, safety.
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I’m probably the oddball, but I tiller most of mine to fit me. 27 inches and I stop. I can see that the extra inch adds a margin of safety, I just don’t do it.
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honestly, I think measuring from the belly is more ideal. However, I understand the standard is usually from the back of the bow. I figure if I measure from the belly than at least there is an automatic safety built into it. I want to speak about draw lengths. I've built 5 bows that would have all been good functional shooters at 28" draws. But I wanted a good safety margin and tried to tiller them out to 30". All of them broke around 30". SO if you are going to account for a safety margin, which I think you should, design the bow for that margin. Don't design the bow with 28" and thing that you can get two more inches out of it.
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At some point they will break. At some point they will suffer some set. I make them all at 27 (or less). I am not gonna draw one any farther, so I avoid the repercussions. If I give it to some one or sell it, I offer it as a 27 inch draw and make it clear that 28 could break it and if it doesn’t break it, it could reduce the cast. I don’t make these to sell them. If I did, I would approach this differently.
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If I did, I would approach this differently.
Like pull them all to 29"or more?
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If it were a business, and I was making them to sell them, yes. I would probably opt for a margin for error. An inch I guess. I’m freakish about over drawing or holding at full draw too long. Both in my opinion hurt the cast, but, if it were a business maybe you sacrifice a little cast for a safety margin. Maybe.
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I over build the bow a bit for safety,..but don't over draw