Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ozi Sapling on June 26, 2019, 02:39:47 am
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Evening folks (for me).
I'm looking to buy a drawknife. They are not commonly seen in the general hardware stores here, or even a timber specialist store I recently visited, so on-line purchase it is.
Seems there are a few options out there - straight w angled handles, straight w straight handles, curved, different blade angles.
Is there a 'go to' type for bow-making? Or does it just come down to personal preference?
This one looks nice:
(Timbercon link deleted)
Would love to hear your thoughts.
OS
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It might be hard to find in your country but the older draw knives are often made out of better steel than the newer ones. I collect draw knives and most of mine are from the 1800's - early 1900's. I find them at flea markets, auctions, estate sales, yard sales, antique stores, etc. I've bought several off of ebay. My preference is an 8" with a slight curve to the blade. If you get an old one, make sure the blade isn't pitted or chipped and check the handles to make sure they are tight and secure.
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Collecting draw knives! I love the passion!
I've dropped into a few antique stores already, and left requests for them to call me back if they find a draw knife (and old set of scales (in pounds)). I'd prefer a beautiful old piece which I can restore to full functionality than a cheap built new one.
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Looking at the link of the one you mentioned, you might be able to buy one from another country and have it shipped for the same price depending on how much shipping is. In the US you can get and old one for $20-30 off ebay. That would leave quite a bit for international shipping.
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I'm with Clint, I like a slightly curved blade...Straight blade limits you...I'm a bevel down guy also when chasing a ring...I can push backwards for a fine scrape also...
Don
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There is an old very rusty one from a local on-line trader for a similar price
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Everyone has a preference, mine is HEAVY, straight with the handles aligned with the blade. I am in no way limited with a straight blade drawknife, it is all about technique and experience. I have been using the same drawknife for 25 years.
The big debarking drawknife is my go to blade for all my bark, sapwood removal and ring chasing. The Greenlee below is pretty good, the Pine Knot is a little light for me and the short Swedish on the bottom is just about useless for serious wood hogging and ring chasing although it is good around pin knots.
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my favorite and I got about 5 , Old ones too... is the small from veritas... round wooden handles... I love that one and use it more than any other...gut
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The Veritas drawknife is a nice little drawknife, but it is a detail/carvers drawknife(I own about 4 knives including a Veritas). For reducing staves into roughed out bows I prefer a heavy duty drawknife, that you cut put your bodyweight behind you, without the handles slipping off. The 300mm Kirschen(Two Cherries)from Timbecon would be better
toolexchange.com.au second hand tools similar price range to the second hand one you posted, but in better condition(some nice Greenlee's)
thewoodworks.com.au new tools
ebay Australia sometimes has em
ebay US normally has plenty of them, but then you need to factor in crappy $A exchange rate, shipping, GST
Carba tec new tools
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I have an older drawknife as well. I’m curious about the Ox head drawknifes anyone have experience with them? They are German made thought they may be good steel.
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+1 Eric, it's a preference...
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,33815.0.html
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Hi guys,
Just acknowledging that I broke a forum rule above, by posting links to websites.
I did scan thru the rules a while back when still lurking as a guest. Lesson - read them again before posting! Tail firmly betwixt legs.
Please carry on....
.sounds like having a few drawknives for different jobs is the way to go
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You can edit your post and delete the direct link.
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Straight blade. Handles a bit offset. Bevel up for heavy work, bevel down with blade perpendicular to the wood surface for fine scraping. Turn it 180 degrees for fine scraping pushing on the knife, for those areas that chatter in one direction. Sharp, never dull.
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I use a Greenlee like Eric’s. Paid about $40 to my door.
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I only use drawknife to remove bark and chase a ring..I do not rough out bow with drawknife.. that is a job for hatchet or bandsaw... gut
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I use a Pfeil small straight bladed drawknife (110 mm blade) with offset handles for finer work and a large curved drawknife (430 mm total, 240 mm blade) also by Pfeil for rough work, although both drawknives work just fine in either role. It's just that the larger one allows for sort of sideways draw cut/slicing movement that lends itself to roughing out. The curvature also makes making flat surfaces easier. I'm very happy with the quality of both blades.
If you're in Europe they're worth it, especially the small one. My only complaint is that the handles on the larger one could be peened with a plate at the end and not just curved into the wood on the inside.
I've checked the prices in the USA and it turns out that what costs 40 € after tax here is an $80 drawknife in America. Mind that I've read that pfeil tools are overpirced in EU for the quality you get. I don't know if that's ture, one would need to ask a metallurgist to be sure. Anyway, I don't regret buying the two drawknives.
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Hamish got close, but missed my favorite drawknife. It is the Lee Valley Austrian hand forged drawknife. It has the curved blade and is hardened to Rc58-60. I have had mine for about 10 years and have yet to sharpen it. I just hone slightly with a fine diamond stone and then strop with polishing compound rubbed into leather glued to a pine 1x2.
Right now they are selling it for $49.50. Unlike antiques, the whole tool is made of high quality steel. The old ones are often iron or low grade steel with a harder steel bit forged in at the cutting edge. Once that is ground down by resharpening enough you are down to soft iron and it won't hold an edge.
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A small side restoration project, I've just picked up this one from an antique shop. $45 AUS (approx $32 US).
Goes against what JW_Halverson just said, but I'm still also looking to get a new one for immediate use.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48143403031_f221b036ce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gmgwqX)IMG_1649 (https://flic.kr/p/2gmgwqX) by Ozi Sapling (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182219241@N04/), on Flickr
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If you are grinding on a vintage draw knife enough to cut through the hardened steel you are doing something wrong. I've removed the bark and sapwood off of hundreds of osage staves with a really old draw knife. It's still sharp enough to cut your hand.
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I found an old rusty Dunlap (?) draw knife for $2 years ago (2013) at an old country junk/antique store, and all I did was remove the rust with several sessions of rubbing it with steel wool and WD-40/paper towels (what I do to get rust off my steel practice swords). Then I slightly sharpened the blade with a file and a whetstone. The old wooden handles unfortunately broke off but I whittled up some new ones that have held up so far.
Agreed with osage outlaw: For old forged steel blades (at least in my experience with antique swords, etc., which are usually more delicate animals than draw knives) you do not want to mess too much with the edge, you might (?anyone feel free to chime in) screw it up.
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Well that's good to know. Thanks Osage and Ringeck for that advice.
JW_H - Here's hoping the one I've pick up hasn't already been brutalized. I'll see if I can tell where the join is with the hardened steel.
The handles are a bit knackered (worse on other side than shown), so will likely need replacement.
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Drawknives can work equally well sharp or dull if you are chasing a ring. If your drawknife holds and edge great, if it doesn't a few passes with a stone will put it back in shape quickly, no big deal.
I build an occasional flintlock rifle, my chisels and gouges are just OK, nothing special. I keep a leather strop next to my work and stop for a little stropping every 10 or 15 minutes or so while I am working.