Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on December 18, 2018, 11:36:39 am
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I finished this one about a month ago. It had the best speed I've done so far so I wanted to shoot it in some before I posted it. Spliced Yew with one piece Bamboo backing. Water Buffalo tips and inside out old leather jacket with leather laceing accent for the handle. It's 61" measured straight across and 65" NTN following the curve. It's 1 5/16" wide at the fade and 5/8" just before the recurve starts. My last Booyew took a bit of set so I made this one a 1/16th or so wider all along. It's taken negligible set so I'm pleased with that. 42#@28" so it's right about 40# at my draw length of almost 27" . I shot three arrows through the chrono. I didn't have one right at 420 grains. All speeds at 28" draw from my shooting machine.
450 grain-186fps
400 grain-189fps
300 grain(just for kicks)-205fps
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More
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And FD
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Sweet, looks great. Boo/Yew is a great combo.
You gotta make up some flight arrows for that :)
Del
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Great job DC! Awesome bow with awesome results.
That style of bow is a lot of work and takes a lot of patience, and you obviously have the talent to pull if off.
This one looks like you could pull it to 30" with minimal stress.
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Not much to ad. I see a whole lotta love, patience & skills. Thanx for pushing the limits again!
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Thanks guys. I've got a few flight arrows, I just can't find a place to shoot them. That's a 30" arrow in the full draw picture. Set the camera timer, run in front and then draw the bow, it's hard to get it right. It's probably only 25-26" in that picture but I don't draw much more than that.
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Beautiful bow and great performance.
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Don, that's one killer bow you've got there. It must be nice to see all that thought, effort and patience come together. (-S
Is it worth making a shooting machine? I often wonder how much the results I get are effected by the "human factor."
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Nice looking bow, DC. Well done. :OK
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Great job on a fine looking bow. That seems pretty fast in my book. Do you feel like it is easy to be accurate with, or do you have to work a little harder making sure you have perfect form?
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Don, that's one killer bow you've got there. It must be nice to see all that thought, effort and patience come together. (-S
Is it worth making a shooting machine? I often wonder how much the results I get are effected by the "human factor."
I would say yes but it depends on how consistent your results are with your chrono. That's all I use mine for. Some days I couldn't hit the sweet spot on the chrono to save my life. Very frustrating. And when I did, the results were all over the place because of my lousy release. With the machine I get very consistent results. Always within 2 fps. I can walk over to it, put in the bow and take one shot and walk away happy because that is what the bow shoots. I usually take more than one but it isn't necessary. Because of its "perfect" release your speed will go up some depending on how good your release was to start with. You won't get false high readings because the chrono just reads what it sees. If any of that sounds good to you then yes, make a machine :) :)
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Great job on a fine looking bow. That seems pretty fast in my book. Do you feel like it is easy to be accurate with, or do you have to work a little harder making sure you have perfect form?
Well, I will never have perfect form ;D ;D but I shoot better with these last two bows(same design) than I have before. I little caveat, about the time I made these bows I changed from 3 finger split to two finger split. I should try two finger with one of my old bows. Maybe when the rain stops.
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Good to know, thanks.
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Slick looking bow Don, sounds like a nice one to shoot
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Quick question for you, how do you laminate the boo on highly reflexed tips like that? I've never had much luck trying that and would like to know your process.
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I really like the unbraced profile on that one. Well done. Do you use a jig?
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Quick question for you, how do you laminate the boo on highly reflexed tips like that? I've never had much luck trying that and would like to know your process.
Very thin boo heat bent(just the last 6"or so) to roughly the shape wanted and wrapped with bike tubes. When wrapping the tubes start at the handle and work your way out. Sometimes I'll clamp a piece of pipe with the same radius to the inside of the curve. Try it all first(dry fit) and make sure your joint looks good. It doesn't work all the time, sometimes you get a thickish glue line.
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I really like the unbraced profile on that one. Well done. Do you use a jig?
Hi Jamie, yes I do but it's just a 2x4 with three uprights, one in the center and one at each tip. One clamp just outside of the middle of the limb. I glue and wrap with bike tubes and then clamp it to the form. Then I lay awake all night wondering if the boo stayed tight to the recurve as I reflexed it. ;D ;D
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... Then I lay awake all night wondering if the boo stayed tight to the recurve as I reflexed it. ;D ;D
Bowyer anxiety, we've all been there ;D
Del
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Beautiful bow, profile, color and all!
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Sweet bow DC .
Bjrogg
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Great work on a great combo DC. :OK
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Thats a real looker ,like it :BB
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Very nice work DC!
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Really nice bow and even better speed! I love these kind of profiles with bamboo backed bows!
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Thanks guys, your comments mean a lot to me. :) :)
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Quick question for you, how do you laminate the boo on highly reflexed tips like that? I've never had much luck trying that and would like to know your process.
I thought of one other thing that Bayou Ben told me. If you make your back nice and flat and then bend in the recurves the wood will cup and your nice gluing surface isn't flat anymore. You have to flatten the gluing surface again. Bit of a pain on the inside of a tight bend but worth it.