Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: backtowood B2W on December 14, 2018, 11:17:57 pm
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Hy folks, instead of bore you with another old fart - I show you something more recently. Its my winter gear. I love launching arrows through snowfall so I made me a quiver Glenn St. Charles - style, and new arrows with my first selfnocks as well.
I call this my anniversary bow as it was finished in Okt when I also started bow making last year. It also represent a stepstone to me - I was struggling with many issues and I learned a lot.
So let's start with the stave:
It had a bit of deflex in the upper fade area (there was a knot) where I wanted to place my arrow pass getting it closer to center. By steaming it there I tried to bend this out - which worked out too good, so I had to backset the other fade/limb too. Also it developed a crack running from the upper fade into the limb. But this wasn't a real issue and I fixed it with some epoxy. Now you can see only a little bit as it wasn't running deep.
time for breakfast :P
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let's continue with the design:
I always wanted to make one like in TBB4 page 160 - an extended Andaman - Holmegaard. I wanted a precise, smooth to draw and shoot, durable bow.
I think the one in TBB4 is make of pecannut 76" and symmetric I guess - Mine is 75" Birch and asymmetric to get knot more suitable for a closer to center design.
Also I wanted to try out this kind of nocks. I don't know how to translate them correctly but i would say wrapped on wedge nocks ::)
So I can increase draw weight up to 50-55#. During tillering I draw her to 50#. Tillering wasn't easy and I struggled a lot to get her bend right so she came out a bit underweighted for the most far out nock position.
I still haven't found the right material for wrapping the nocks, now its linen yarn but when I wax the yarn to protect the tips - the wedges started to slip. Any suggestions are very welcome )P(
First I backed the handle area and inner limbs with flax fibers because I damaged the back with the drawknife by debarking. I made a bad job twice so I decided do back her with birch and cherry bark. The outer tips also to protect the back from marks of the wedges and string.
The arrow plate is made of an amber inlay.
The stain is resin and pigments dissolved in IPA. The color should match the inner bark from the birch but lighter. I also stained the spruce arrow shafts with the rest.
now some Pics in the matching background, which was worth to wait for.
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more
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more
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my wife don't want to take pics outside any more ... (lol) >:D
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details --- thanks for watching!
ups file size is to big, I īll try to upload the detail later...
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tried again but I have reached the maximum upload size
maybe after some replies, which are very welcome - let me know what you like and more important what you don't like
thanks
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Very handsome bow :)
Del
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Very nice!
Hawkdancer
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That is a nice bow to celebrate! Well done!
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Thank you guys!
Its a real good shooter, I use it for 3D and target. I can notice a little bit of hand shock but its negligible .
She weights 712 grams, max width is 2 1/8". She lost almost all of the backset which I steamed in and took about 1 1/2" set, but I'm very convinced with the performance. The inner limbs have some twist but they straighten out to the tips.
The quiver I've posted in primitive skills... (I cannot see any pics there put it seems others do)
ok i will try again to upload some pics from the nocks...
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Really like the bark on the back.
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Beautiful!
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Man that backing looks great on this bow. I really like that look. The tiller looks good too.
Great job!
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Outstanding work! The birch bark really makes it shine!
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very nice job on the birch bow
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Very nice work! 8)
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good looking bow
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Love the backing and it's a handsome bow!
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Nice Bow! Good looking tiller and cool backing. Mike
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Thank you all for the comments!
A little update: I broke the nose from the lower wedge tip, so I sanded them down both. I've done working on this wedges several times - I hope this was the last...