Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: IrishJay on December 13, 2018, 02:43:00 pm
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Stopped at Home Depot today and picked up a 6' length of red oak 1×3. Nice straight grain, no knots. I'm thinking a 68" bow with rigid handle around 40lbs. What limb shape would you guys recommend?
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4" handle,fades at 1-1/2,2"wide for half the length.you may come in a little heavy,but better than light!make sure to radius all the edges,you may want to build up the handle though?
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I have a nice piece of white ash to use for a handle/riser block. I was thinking 2" wide from the fades tapering to 5/8" starting 10" from the tips.
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I have a hickory backed red oak bow that is a 2 1/4" at the fades pyramid. Pyramid would be a good choice. A semi-pyramid, 1 3/4" to 2" wide with parallel limbs out 8" from the handle then tapering to the tips.
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Pat, if I do a 4" handle with 2" fades on either end, would that 8"start from the handle, or from the end of the fades?
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From the fades. You could go 4" or 6" too. For a new bowyer the extra length would be more forgiving. If the limbs seems to be getting too thin as you're tillering you can narrow the width and/or shorten the parallel portion.
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If I do a glued on riser block for extra thickness in the handle can I get away with a cut in shelf? Not looking for center shot, but maybe 1/3 the hand width.
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Yes you can. I prefer to make a bulbous style handle and add a rest at the arrow pass. I think it is a safer application with the same affect. You could probably do it with a more traditional handle.
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Red oak can really vary in bend resistance within the species.the shiny waxy stuff I found to be better than the more porus!not sure but a lot of new guys struggle to keep their handles from popping off.pat b did a really good build along a while back,I believe it hickory backed lemon wood(degame),maybe it's still around?good luck,remember the longer the bow in some cases have a lower draw weight because less wood is working.
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good luck with it. I can honestly say I have never got a board bow to stay together. I know they are popular with some people but I have never been able to make one work. The money I put into boards over the years, I could have got a nice stave lol
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For a 1st, 2nd, or even 3rd bow I'd encourage use of pyramid or near-pyramid design.
Ideal tiller for pyramid is "arc of a circle" and, for me, it's much easier to see that tiller than the elliptical tiller you'd want for limbs that were constant width for significant distance.
Also, because arc of circle is what you're after with pyramid, use of Tillering Gizmo is ideal. That simple lil tool virtually guarantees no hinges and maximizes odds of decent tiller. Google "tillering gizmo" if unfamiliar with this tool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqvwUqn-EFQ
Re the handle/fades riser block . . . I would encourage use of 2" fades, or more, especially for first bows. I would glue on a riser that yields total (limb board + riser block) 1.25 - 1.5" thick/height handle . . . personal preference.
To avoid riser popping off, design fades in such a way that last 1/2" or so of fade is melded into the limb. Don't simply have entire fade sitting on top of your red oak. I'll try to find pic of what am trying to say.
BE SURE you have good mating glue surfaces between your limb board and riser board. Particularly if ya plan to use pva type glue such as Titebond.
Good luck!
(https://i.imgur.com/7L6Gacs.jpg)
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Good advice so far.
I really like Knoll's advice. I would just say if you intend to do a cut in shelf I would go for a total handle thickness of 1.5".
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I've got close to 2" with the piece of white ash I glued on, that will probably come down closer to 1.5" as I shape the handle with the old ferrier's rasp.
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Just be sure there is enough "meat" around where the window will be cut out and radius your cuts and round over all edges. Sharp edges and abrupt cut outs are good places for the crack demons to show their trade.
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I rip cut the board down to 2" wide last night and glued and clamped the riser block. I'll probably shape the handle and cut the taper into the limbs either tomorrow evening or Sunday morning. So should I go true pyramid pr semi-pyramid? Keeping in mind that 2" width has already been cut.
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I rip cut the board down to 2" wide last night and glued and clamped the riser block. I'll probably shape the handle and cut the taper into the limbs either tomorrow evening or Sunday morning. So should I go true pyramid pr semi-pyramid? Keeping in mind that 2" width has already been cut.
User preference, imo.
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Correction due to "senior moment" re my preferred handle thickness. :-\
1.25 to 1.5" . . . not 1". O:)
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Red oak board, 2" at the fades, I think I posted the specs a while back. Pyramid design is a great one for a board bow. I have a build a long in the how to section
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Wrong pic I'll fix that
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,64592.msg908076.html#msg908076
Here's the link
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I went with the true pyramid. Will be doing some handle shaping and edge radiusing today, then onto tiller. The other 2 staves in the pic are black cherry, both roughed out from the same log today.
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Good. Have fun. Jawge
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Been sick for a few days which has slowed my progress, but I got back into the shop for a while this evening. Finished up the handle and the tip overlays. Tomorrow's goal is to do some sanding on the limbs, cut in the nocks and get it on the tillering rig.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181219_213154_zpsoblifcwm.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181219_213154_zpsoblifcwm.jpg.html)
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Linen backing applied, tomorrow I tiller.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181220_204210_zpspseufkzk.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181220_204210_zpspseufkzk.jpg.html)
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I allow at least 48 hours in the house for moisture introduced by backing process to move out of the limbs.
Good luck!
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I find it's better to tiller first, then do the handle shaping
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Linen on one limb sanded
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181221_115519_zpsrsoso9yq.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181221_115519_zpsrsoso9yq.jpg.html)
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Makin' shavin's! I had it braced, but it was a little uneven (top limb stiff) so I didnt want to leave it that way long enough for a pic. More to come after dinner. One question I should have thought to ask before hand. Is 8" brace height about right? Bow is 70" over all, 68" ntn, using an AMO 68" string.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/Screenshot_20181221-191153_Gallery_zpsott1qxk2.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/Screenshot_20181221-191153_Gallery_zpsott1qxk2.jpg.html)
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Eight inches, assuming you are measuring from string to deepest part of grip, is pretty high for a self bow even when it is closer to finished. For now I would do less, maybe a lot less if you have a ways to go on weight/tiller.
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That's to the belly of the limbs right at the fades, I had a brain fart and didnt even think to measure to the handle.
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Ok to the spot on the handle where the heel of the bow hand sits its 7" braced.
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6" would be plenty.
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Here she is, 39.4lbs @ 28", 7" brace. I still have a good bit of finishing work to do, and I'm going to toast the belly, hopefully bumping the draw weight up into the low to mid 40's in the process. So......everybody tell me what I did wrong ;)
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213720_zpsdypjfmu6.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213720_zpsdypjfmu6.jpg.html)
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213849_zpspox2oxyt.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213849_zpspox2oxyt.jpg.html)
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213743_zpsmbwfbghc.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181221_213743_zpsmbwfbghc.jpg.html)
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/Bow%20Pics/20181221_214141_zpsbtfq7mh1.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/Bow%20Pics/20181221_214141_zpsbtfq7mh1.jpg.html)
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Tiller looks good however the outer portion of the upper limb looks stiff.
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Yeah I messed with that after the pic was taken, with a little more shave off that stiff section and a toasted belly I ended up with 37lbs @ 28"
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Congrats, sir.
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Like Pat said, still a little stiff on the last foot or so of the top limb, not much. I would give it a few scrapes from the red garage door release handle back through the fade, that area is pretty straight as well.
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Congratulations on your first bow. Jawge