Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dylanholderman on July 15, 2018, 07:35:44 pm
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so yesterday i bent the recuves on this osage stave first one went fine barely any cracking, second one though :( i had a crack/wind shake open up on it. i knew it was there before bending it and was planning on filling it with CA glue after i bent it but with how wide the crack opened to on the back i'm not sure now. thoughts? ???
(https://i.imgur.com/Q1B2DnV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GCeG66R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wfZpJZz.jpg)
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Fill w/ CA and slap an "underlay" on there? :-\
It's worked for me in very similar situations.
Best of luck! )P(
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Is that some sapwood on the back?
How thick is it in the bend?
Does the crack go through the limb?
DBar
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yes there's one ring of sapwood i left on it for looks
its maybe 9/16-5/8 of a inch thick at the moment in hind sight i should have brought it closer to 1/2 inch
and yes the crack go's all the way through it but not any farther down the limb
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Dylan, I agree with upstate. Fill it with super glue. You mar eliminate it or most of it when you thin the tips. If not add an underlay(overlay) and it should be OK.
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My gut tells me it'll work. But I think I'd give it a wrap of sinew. It's hard to tell but looks like it maybe goes out end of bow? Maybe that's a pencil mark. It seems like a static should be ok.
Bjrogg
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Another vote for underlay / overlay
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Overlays can be very attractive, I have cracked statics bending them and put overlays on all the curves to make up wood after for filing the cracks out and over thinning the limbs.
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That does look nice Eric :OK
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I would thin the tips, with that large of a crack I would use epoxy to fill and add overlays to both the back and belly side of the tips. Epoxy fills voids much better than super glue. Super glue is best for thin cracks JMO
DBar
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What about a foaming style glue ??? I’ve misplaced my CA but I have a bottle of foaming polyurethane glue and some 5min epoxy
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No to the foaming glue. 5 min epoxy is not as good as a longer cure epoxy. If possible, get the best glue for the job. Either good superglue like loctite 420 or gorilla. Or a good epoxy that cures in 24 hrs. Personally i would use epoxy if the crack is wide.
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Thin super glue would be best because it will get down into the small cracks. Time to get a new bottle of super glue.
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alright i'll run by the hardware store and get some more CA (i think i might have left my old one up at Marshall :()
i'll also thin the tip down some and see if putting a clamp on the tip might close up the crack some.
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Looks like the crack goes right through. I would do what DBar suggests. Epoxy will flow into thin cracks if you warm it. Tape off the belly side and pour it in the top. After it cures flatten and double up the overlays on back and belly.
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any wood suggestions? iv'e got maple walnut maybe some cherry and some other misc wood scraps laying around, what do you guys think will look good with the osage in five years once its darkened up some.
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I have used a hypodermic syringe to inject Urac deeply into cracks.
I have used a combination of osage and walnut the most, you could stain any other wood you use. Put lye on cherry and it will turn dark like a buckeye.
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Probably any of the woods you mentioned will work, Dylan.
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hey so its been a while sense i posted on this, been working on it a little at a time here and there but recurves are unfamiliar ground for me so i would appreciate some input here hows the tiller looking? (sorry for the bad background i know it doesn't help)
(https://i.imgur.com/wDCO7aX.jpg)
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Dylan, if you can I'd make the left limb the bottom and get the right inner limb area to bend a tad more. Otherwise it looks pretty good.
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Agree with Pat
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I'm wondering why you make such excessive levers. Look at the last pic, probably drawlength about 25 or 26". Look at the string angle, the string is near at the lever. In this way you have no benefit of the levers, you only create additional mass.
Imo alever angle of about 60° is the best for statics (o.k. it depends also on the the bow length)
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Thanks pat and ohma2 I’ll will get out to the garage and put your advice to use tonight.
Simson I agree the recurves are excessive, this is only my second recurve and I got a bit overzealous when I made the steam bending form.
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Wait until you are at full draw and then mark where string lift off is. I like to cut them so the string lifts off a little before full draw.
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if he cuts them a bit, the string angle will be better?
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I think that anything beyond where the string touches at full draw is dead weight. You need a bit of it to build a nock but no more.
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finally calling this done, thank you to everyone at the classic who gave me advice and helped me tiller it in the rest of the way.
wish my leather work was better but i don't practice it much so that's what i get.
sapwood backed Osage,
63'' nock to nock 51# at 28''
(https://i.imgur.com/g9xT0MW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XwYYQT3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/g0J9BgS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EUNlJ4P.jpg)
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Looks damn good...shoot the heck out of it and have some fun.
DBar
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She looks good Dylan. congrats. 8) :OK
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Mighty mighty fine. I love it. Bet it's the sweetest pulling bow you will ever draw. Tiller looks on point as well. You should be proud of that.
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Looks good Dylan. Enjoy shooting her
Bjrogg
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Looks good. Nice bend.
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Sweet man! Looks fast! But don't they all. So how does it shoot?
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That came out really nice. Good job finishing it up.
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I would be proud of that one :OK
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thanks guys i am proud. this was a big challenge for me, mostly because of those big ol hooks on it dang thing didn't want to keep a string!
but it was worth it in the end, she shoots hard and smooth, at least from my perspective.
this is only the second recurve iv'e made and the only one with such extreme curves iv'e even shot.
;D
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Looks very good Dylan. Very nice work.
Pappy
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Your bow turned out as a beauty, congrats. Tiller is spot on.
My 2cents: next time try to make a lower angle for the levers, so you gain more advantage from them resulting in more speed.
But again the overall work is absolute fine.