Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Yellowstave on April 28, 2018, 07:27:49 pm
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So it ended up 68i68inches ttt. 60 lbs at 26 inches. Its only shoot 155 through chrony but super acurate. Dont hold back. I love everyones feedback. Good or bad.
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More
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How heavy is the arrow you're using? I'm surprised you're not getting at least 160 w/ that draw weight. The bend looks really good to me.
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Gemsbok inlay strikeplate.
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That was a 634 grain arrow. I weighed it. Im wondering how i could speed it up a tad
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Im what you call vertically challenged hehe and im only drawing 26 so im not sure if that rhe reason or what. Help me out fellers.
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Shoot a lighter arrow. 500 grains is plenty for anything really.
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Yellowstave,
I see everything moving very well from brace to full draw...
Don
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Nice work on your bow.Has some really nice character to it too.Can see why you like it.It's obvious you can tiller a bow and your bow held up well with your solution of pikeing to reclaim your draw weight after adjusting your tiller.
An obvious example also of why starting out long enough will give you wiggle room.Congratulations.Have fun shooting.
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Nicely done. Of course I like the stiff handle. Cool knot. I see a bit of hinge on the right hand limb at mid limb. That could be the wiggle in the limb if it is the one on the right. Not to much mass on the limbs tip. Well done. Arvin
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Nice bow yellowstave. I like your bend and that bow has some nice character.
Bjrogg
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With some campfire smoke, sweat and age, that will be even more of a looker. I would hunt with it.
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It looks gorgeous to me, plenty of character, good tiller...
But ... why is the back edge of the plate square? >:(
Curve it to match the shape of the bow, inlaying a curve isn't so much more trouble that inlaying straight... it's the attention to detail that separates the great from the good.
Del
PS... I've done it for you this time ;)
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I think the fist 12" off the left fade is stiff. Look at it in relation to the top of the door molding in all three pics. Otherwise, the rest is nice and looks good. Speed numbers dont mean sh*t, until you know what they are.
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I think it's a wrap. Nicely done. Jawge
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I'm kinda thinking Pearl might be right. It does seem like it maybe rocking in the handle. How does it feel? It looks pretty darn good but I can't see how it feels.
Bjrogg
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Well i have to agree with pearly also. I totally missed that spot. Btw bjrogg, ir feels very nice to shoot. Its as acurate as any bow ive shot. But i do see the stiff spot after pearly pounted it out. Ill remedy that today.
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I shaved a little more where you said Pearly. Hows that look to yall now. I hit 170 with a 500 grain arrow.
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QUESTION: If i pike 2 inches to make it 66inches and retiller, would i gain speed. Not that i will, im pretty happy with it right now. Im just curious. My thought is ill be removing alot of weight that is not really doing much. Am i wrong guys. If thats the case my next one is going to be in that range.
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You would think so but Badger is discovering that shorter usually means more set and that kills cast. You might find that piking gains you little or nothing and possibly shortens the life of the bow. I'm undecided about this. I suppose if you can reduce the length without taking set that it would be better.
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Looks good leave it like it is. Just an opinion . Arvin
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+1 Arvin & enjoy this nice bending bow!
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Yes, you will gain speed by piking it.
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PatM. How much speed theoretically would you think i would gain with a 2 inch pikejob?
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I like it. I would leave it be. I built my first 50-75 bows that were longer. Then as I got more confident i started to shorten them more and more. Fast forward ahead a few hundred various bows and I now build my own osage flat bows 65-67" ntn and I like 50 @ 28.
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Each of the limbs has a different entry point into the handle which makes tillering just a little difficult. Nicely done. I'd leave it.
I've never been a fan of piking a tillered bow.
You'll gain weight (approximately 5# for each inch removed from both limbs; 2 inch total) but more set. IMHO.
Jawge
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Yes George is spot on about entry point into handle being different making it more difficult.Only way to even that up prior to tillering is with heat.Then tillering will be easier.In other words balancing limbs prior to tillering.
Modify post....Without balancing if that entry point is quite different it can lead to more material taken from one limb than another to get a good tiller.What happens then is one limb can take more set than another over time.
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Sometimes the hardest lesson to learn to making bows is quit while you're ahead. I'd leave it
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Each of the limbs has a different entry point into the handle which makes tillering just a little difficult. Nicely done. I'd leave it.
I've never been a fan of piking a tillered bow.
You'll gain weight (approximately 5# for each inch removed from both limbs; 2 inch total) but more set. IMHO.
Jawge
Absolutely +1
Del
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Looks good, especially after you worked on the left limb. As others suggest, I would say leave it as is. A razor sharp broadhead on a perfectly tuned arrow will do more for you than attempting to pike the bow. Besides, it'll give you an excuse to make another bow!