Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Bayou Ben on April 17, 2018, 08:32:53 am
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I've been working down this stave in between other bows and I'm wondering what you all would do with this little hump/twist thing?
I don't have much selfbow experience; this is only the second one I've worked with, and it's already giving me issues with maintaining even thickness across the width in that area. I'm sure it wouldn't bother some of the more experienced guys, but it sure is bothering me...
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That is a minor twistybumpythingy, so I would just ignore it. You should however pay attention to your thickness being even and gradually tapering towards the nocks. (hump looks thicker now but that can also be some lens distortion) You can use calipers to measure even thickness but I use my fingers as calipers and that works pretty good. If you slide up and down with the bow between your fingers you will be able to feel thick or thin spots pretty accurate
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Thanks leonwood. Yeah I've been trying that finger tip caliper thing and I'm just starting to get to where I can feel differences. Pretty amazing how the brain can detect that. I still use the caliper to double check my untrained brain at this point though. That's how I determined that this bump is going to give me trouble. It's the only spot that doesn't have even thickness taper and I'm having trouble matching the contour of the bump to fix it, if that makes sense.
It looks worse in person. I couldn't get a good pic of it.
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If checking thickness is troublesome just focus on how the entire limb is bending. If it is a little stiff in that area leave it that’s usually fine. Just makensure you don’t hinge it next to that spot.
Focussing on the entire limb when drawing bows with humps and bumps is a little hard at first but try to close your eyes a bit so it gets a little fuzzy and just look for even limb travel instead of circular shapes if that makes sense
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I would even it out both ways on a caul.
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I have never worked Elm but I'm with Pearly maybe get it thinner & steam/ bend on a caul and dry heat later if it was hickory that's how I would do it I know there cousins it would make things easer , what kind of elm is it ?
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Yeah I might try that once I get it thinner.
I think it's American Elm. Cut it in the swamp a couple years ago. It doesn't like to be split, and it splinters easily.
The other stave I tried broke when I put it on the form. Looking back, it was too thick to be bending that much.
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Good idea.An elongated hump like that usually is'nt too hard to take out with the heat gun on a form.
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I'm with Pearl here. That amount of twist isn't a big deal on a straight stave, but those front to back wiggles would mess me up, and the side bend should come out. This is why I preach restraining staves from smaller trees to dry! :P
Look down the sides and get the thickness where you want it, the heat treat over a caul.
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I'd try to straighten it some to. Stay away from that Elm with draw knife. It loves to tare out deep chunks. You probably already know that. I've only made two bows from Elm but it seems to bend real nice with steam.
Bjrogg
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I'd try to straighten it some to. Stay away from that Elm with draw knife. It loves to tare out deep chunks. You probably already know that. I've only made two bows from Elm but it seems to bend real nice with steam.
Bjrogg
+1. Elm is the reason I bought a farriers rasp.
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Yeah I hear you about tearing the chunks out. I have a couple splinters now that I will have to deal with. I'll post a pic a little later to get advice. I'm pretty sure they are left over from when I split the staves. It's crazy how far the interlocking grain travels. I only use a rasp, surform, or scraper, but splinters keep popping up on the edges as I'm working it down to size.
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Seems there's so many different types of elm out there.Most are worth messing with.To me elm can be a smooth sweet pulling type of wood for a bow.