Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on March 23, 2018, 01:17:00 pm
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When you use tip overlays how deep do you cut your nocks? How much overlay material do you leave between the bottom of the nock and the back of the bow. This dimension here
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Deep enough to safely hold your string and the amount of material left in the bottom is based on what is used. On horn I might have .06-.08" often, on wood it will be double. Horn is much more durable and flexible.
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You should angle your glueline so that this becomes a moot point.
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Deep enough to hold the string, with enough material left to hold the overlay and limb tip together.
It's going to vary slightly with materials, tip/nock style, and what Pat said.
Oh, and it's TECHNICALLY called an "Uberlager", not an overlay. Don't know if anyone told you. ::) ::) :P :P
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Ive seen plenty of bows without em so if I’m adding one it’s purely for looks and to better hold the string. I do like my nocks small though. I used to do big ones and now do pretty thin and a smooth taper.
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These are just roughed in to hold the tillering string. By angle do you mean make the tip thinner so the overlay goes across the grain a bit?
I thought uberlager was what you drank at Octoberfest ;)
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Is that cherry, Don?
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These are just roughed in to hold the tillering string. By angle do you mean make the tip thinner so the overlay goes across the grain a bit?
I thought uberlager was what you drank at Octoberfest ;)
Yes. Across the tip about half way or slightly more.
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Is that cherry, Don?
The limb is Osage and the tip is fumed Ocean Spray.
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These are just roughed in to hold the tillering string. By angle do you mean make the tip thinner so the overlay goes across the grain a bit?
I thought uberlager was what you drank at Octoberfest ;)
Yes. Across the tip about half way or slightly more.
Thanks Pat, I thought that was what you meant.
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DC, it might be. I couldn't figure out how to add Umlauts.
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I do mine more like this.
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I made one like that early on and it split right down the middle of the bow. I don't know if the glue on the back let go. I'd given the bow to someone and they said it was braced and leaning against a car and it just popped. Actually it's in the corner of shame, I'll take some pictures.............Here's the broken end and the surviving end. It looks like I put the nock too close to the end. I used thick CA. Anyway I never did another with that much slope, some slope but not that much.
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I've done them with the grooves out past the end of the wood, with much steeper angles on some recurves, etc. The bond should be stronger than the material it's joining. If so, they are one, and stronger than any selfbow. I won't use superglue on them. I fully groove their gluing surfaces with a toothing plane and use Smooth On, cured with heat. Including bows over 70 lbs, ain't had a failure yet.
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A lengthwise split like that has GOT to be an anomally, DC. Never seen anything like that.
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I slant my overlay at an angle that puts if about halfway through the end of the stave toward the belly. I eliminate the bump on a log look that one get by putting an overlay on top of the back of the limb.
(https://i.imgur.com/IqdFn4V.jpg)
The only one I had fail was when I had a string slip off to one side of the nock when I was stringing it. The string split the overlay and part of the limb back.
I fixed the break with a very long overlay, thousands of arrows later the fixed bow is still shooting.
(https://i.imgur.com/iX72Ehq.jpg)