Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Jim Davis on January 22, 2018, 02:01:08 pm
-
I haven't used a long string in close to 20 years. I haven't broken more than one bow in tillering in the same time span. My bows don't take much set.
I cut the limbs close to final dimension on the band saw. Then I rasp them closer and start floor tillering. When I've got what I think is enough bend and the limbs feel equal, I string the bow to brace height and take a look at it.
Then, if the limbs don't look even, I unstring it and work on the strong limb or strong sections. Some scraping comes into play at this point. Then I string it up again and put it on the tree and pull it to whatever length shows stiff spots or comes to target weight or target draw weight. If adjustment is needed, I do that. I make 20 half or three quarters pulls and recheck the bend.
When the bow looks right, I go shoot it. This rarely takes half a day.
Making bows is only a means to an end to me. I don't want to be known as a bowyer or an artist. I just like shooting wooden bows and arrows. Some of your bows would look at home in an art gallery. As long as my bow has good cast and is stable in hand, I'm happy.
-
Looks pretty good to me, the top limb is a little stiff though.
-
As long as that works for you, Jim, that's all that matters. The proof is in the pudding. :OK
-
Hey there Eric, I'm thinking about getting down your way for the Howard Hill. I've got a small RV trailer now.
Photo is just to illustrate that I do really make bows. ;) As for the limbs, the bow is canted. The top limb is not really as stiff as it looks. Photo is a few years ago. My limbs are stiffer than they were then. lol
-
Jim I'm sorry to say but it looks like your a bowyer to me and there for I'd also say a artist. That's pretty much how I've tillered the last fifteen or so bows. I just watch each limb bend with handle clamped in vice. When bend looks right and limbs seem even if they feel right for brace height I make a string. I brace bow and go from there. It seems to work for me to.
Bjrogg
-
Ok Jim. Whittle away.
I'm not sure what you want us to say here. Lol
-
Bow looks great, Jim. Jawge
-
You can't argue with success. I did them almost exactly as you describe for many years. Heavily reflexed bows involve a little more risk. Once you get to know a design and the wood you are working with it speeds things up greatly.
-
Ok Jim. Whittle away.
I'm not sure what you want us to say here. Lol
Me either! Just my reaction to lots of folks stressing out over each scrape.
-
looks good enjoy your shooting,, (SH)
-
Jim, over the last several years, mainly since I retired and have more time I started extending out my tillering process by several hours. mainly because I have fun doing it. I build a lot of different styles and a lot of different weights lengths etc. I try to come up with approaches I can use on any bow. I expect my approach to be able to tell me how much I can get out of a bow as opposed to being stuck on a target draw weight hit or miss. Just last week I set out to build a 110# elb, I discovered that the bow had 100# in it but not 110# unless I wanted about an extra inch of set. I dropped it down to 90# and designated it for someone else and rebuilt the next one which came out a nice 110# but just a tad more bend in the handle than I want and mid limbs slightly stiffer than I want so I changed design again started on a new one which I hope meets my ideal. It only works for me like this because I analyze everything every time I take it back to the tree. The last bow that came out at 110# was actually laid up with the center just a tad too thin so I am adding a 1/8" core to the next one. Even if I am wasting some time I really enjoy the added intensity of trying to hit a smaller target so to speak.
-
Hi Jim,
I admire you for what you do. I am not nearly experienced enough to cut it that close with my bandsaw. I am using HHB and the saw has a habit of running to the side even though I am thinking that I am doing everything right...its just really tough wood to cut. So I am forced to cut it wide enough to allow for some margin of error sawing it and the rest is left to a hoof rasp and a lot of scraping.
I hope to be able to cut down on the length of time it takes me to make a bow since sometimes it feels that it takes so long to get to the point where I can even string it.
I have to say though that you are still an artist! That bow looks really good whether it took you a day to do it or 3 weeks. :)
-
Not gonna lie.. I abuse mine (by most litersture’s standards) much the same as you do. I just broke my first one in 2.5 years yesterday. They take an acceptable amount of set unless I get too impatient with moisture content.
-
... Even if I am wasting some time I really enjoy the added intensity of trying to hit a smaller target so to speak.
No Steve, you're not wasting time any more than I am. This can only be a pleasant diversion for most of us. For you, and lots of others, the path is as important as the destination.
-
I could be wrong,,but how i interpreted this was...Dont over complicate things..
-
I could be wrong,,but how i interpreted this was...Dont over complicate things..
Works for me:)
-
Lol! H'll's bells! My limbs are stiff all the time and I have yet to take a bow to tillering stage! >:D I'm getting close, though -got a slight bend on my first floor tiller! :BB. That bow is pretty darn good!
Hawkdancer
-
Btw, I found out my Buck Hunting knife is as good a scraper as my Garlick's! Got plenty of tinder for the fire drill when I get to that project :BB. The bow guy is the only one scraping! Thanks for all the info, guys! And gals!
Hawkdancer
-
I guess there is a little difference in people who make bows because they want/need a bow to shoot, and people who make bows because they enjoy the work that goes into it.
Both are still bowyers and artists to me :BB
-
That's exactly my approach to bow making as well. I don't care about making beautiful bows, I want something that shoots hard, fast and true. And then make a new and better bow, still.
Some of my preferred bows still have some tool marks on them, I never bothered to sand them and decorate them. They shoot fine and have the right feel for me. No trinkets, just the bare essentials.
Not the style of many bowyers here, but it works for me :)
-
I do what Joachim does. I’ll just linseed and wax a successful bow. I like them a little rustic but mainly I am concerned about good cast and durability. One reason i like doing it this way is that i shoot them a bunch to confirm it’s a good bow. Then if i want to gift it to someone i sand it nice and dress it up. I always have a half dozen sitting around that i can get into giftable shape in an hour.
-
I agree with alot of what was wrote here but in the end i am more a shooter and i agree with what patB said if it works for you thats all that matters.
-
Lol! H'll's bells! My limbs are stiff all the time
That's old age, happens to me too. :D
-
Age maybe, too much wear and tear, too many mountains to pack up and down -but not old! Old is 40 years older than we're ever going to be >:D. I think I got a bunch more bows to make! >:D :BB
Hawkdancer
-
I don't do longstring tillering anymore either. I get a good taper started, start floor tillering and checking the taper with my fingers as I go along. Then I go right to brace and I'm usually close enough to a good tiller or spot on at first brace.
-
I think you are right, Jim.
I used to basically never make the same bow twice, so needed several systems that I used to keep my ADHD in check. Just stuff like in the TBB where you reduce limb weight by "one pass with the rasp, one pass with the scraper" for controlled, systematic reduction. I adapt that here and there for things like systematic tapering,. and I teach those to new guys when I can.
As I've made and screwed up a ton of bows over the past 15 years, I just know what I'm looking at better, know where that devil in the details is hiding, and I'm not as reliant on the systems, more on feel and look, and what I already know about X wood specie or Y style of bow.
However, I will continue to preach the "spring-scale" method of hitting desired draw weight, where you never pull the bow past the desired weight at any increment of draw. I get there a lot faster these days, but that method has kept me from making ANY 30 lb bows since I started using it, unless I wanted to.
-
"...the path is as important as the destination."
Jim, for me the path is the destination. :)
Jawge
-
Just finished a 10#, a 15# and a 25# for a boy and his dad. Boy will try both light bows and see which he should start with. The journey was just to get them shooting, as far as I'm concerned, but I made the bows look nice too.
The 10# Osage takedown has a lot of reflex. The 15# is hickory, and the 25# is an Osage takedown. Small arrows are hickory to resist breakage. Large arrows are spruce.
-
That is really a nice set, father son sets are actually pretty popular.
-
Jim, I just got a message from a lady who needs a 12# bow, I am more concerned about what kind of arrows she will need. 5' 4" so I am thinking 24" arrows.
-
Did a few calculations and came up with 25.5", but kids don't come with standard ratios of height to span, etc. I think you are in the ballpark.
-
Jim I have used the same method for years. I usually finish them out pretty nice though. Arvin