Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: upstatenybowyer on August 19, 2017, 08:31:54 pm
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I have this HHB bow that's just about finished up and after a long round of shooting I notice the string alignment needs a little tweaking.
So I clamp it to my straightening caul and use my heat gun very briefly on one spot. I didn't think this would effect the tiller much cause it was just in one spot and only for a minute or two.
Low and behold that one spot bent a whole lot less, significantly effecting the tiller. I fixed the problem by going over the rest of the bow briefly with the heat gun.
All this got me thinking that the 6 coats of tung oil on the bow may have made for a much more dramatic effect from dry heat. The wood got much hotter with the oil finish and perhaps since I really took my time applying the tung oil, it had penetrated the wood deeply, causing a much deeper heat treating.
Anyone have any experience with this?
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I've noticed better heat treatment heat treating bows that as staves had their backs shellacked a couple of times.So much so that after a heat treatment the back will be stuck to the form melting the shellack to the form.Could be heat sneaking around to the back but not totally though IMHO.
I really think there is something to that.
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Worth noting that bamboo flyrod makers tend to give their rod blanks a soaking and even pressure treating with an oil/varnish/sealer treatment which after curing stiffens the blank and reduces any tendency to set.
I would think that a heat treated polymerizing oil will act similar to the way that the natural resins and oils in Osage shore up the cell walls and help give it its unique qualities.
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I use a lard/pitch mixture when heat tempering. I believe it helps.
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I use a lard/pitch mixture when heat tempering. I believe it helps.
Got a recipe JonW? - OneBow
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Just pitch some lard on it!
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No recipe Eric. Prolly 2 parts lard to 1 part pitch. I shoot for the consistency of paste shoe polish when melted and cooled off.
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To me some resins would be beneficial.
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To me some resins would be beneficial.
That's the principle behind the flyrod blank treatment. The typical mixture is a penetrating marine sealer mixed with a resin based varnish perhaps thinned with a solvent. The idea being to get the mix deep into the fibers and cells and then set and polymerize there as well.
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Some sort of pitch mixture would also help make things more water proof also I would think.Also being acceptable of a finish.