Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on June 08, 2017, 11:32:26 am
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I finally got around to shredding the elk tendons I got a couple of years ago. Tough job. I think it took me 1 1/2 hours to get one apart. I still have to shred them into "angel hair". They seem to be all tangled right at the "Y". I saw a video where the guy split the "Y" sideways into two "Y's" but I couldn't get that to work. The guys in the videos seemed to pound them for a couple of minutes and then started tearing them apart. I was wailing away at it for a half hour before I could push a screwdriver though it. Is there an easier method. With my old hands I think I'll only manage one a day so any clues would sure be appreciated.
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Use 2 pairs of pliers makes it easy !
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I don't touch leg tendons because they are a pain. I use back sinew only and can process a bows worth in an hour or so. Sorry I didn't answer your question. Maybe loo for back sinews next time.
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I got the legs from a game processor and I was lucky to get them. I don't think they would be willing to take the time to strip out the backstrap. The way this is going I might not live long enough to make more than one sinewed bow anyway ;D ;D
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Never done elk but in whitetail I get my teeth and feet involved pretty often. Clamp down with your teeth on one side, grab the other side with both hands, get your feet up on your hands. Focus on clamping with your hands, pushing with your feet, and hope your molars don't pull out of your head.
Or a pair of pliers or vice grips are much easier.
Kyle
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Another question. In the videos they say to throw away the sheath. Is this the sheath? I can get some decent sinew out of this. Why throw it away?
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I've been fortunate over the years to never had to shred sinew. Somehow it has always come to me already shredded and ready for use.
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I just processed a load of elk leg tendons. I pound it with a rubber mallet on the ground then just pull them apart with pliers. It's not too bad but it is time consuming. All bits unused I save then I'll make some glue. Don't think there is any easier way!
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Wasn't so much easier as little tricks that I was looking for. Rubber mallet,eh? On the ground? You must have hard ground in Florida, or is it all paved over now ;) ;) ;D ;D
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It's just a lot of work, that's all there is too it. You can get some decent sinew out of the sheath portion, it's just a ton more work for the amount you get out of it. Unless they meant the papery portion. I used to try to get every little bit of sinew I could get out, but not anymore. If it's too wirey to mess with, it goes in the glue pot.
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Try soaking them and pulling apart while wet. ;)
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Pat--Got a piece soaking now, about a half hour?
HD--When you have a limited supply you have to use all you can.
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I shred a lot of whitetail leg sinew each year, probably 50 pieces or more. I use a hammer to pound the tendons until they break up into fiber bundles. I don't find it to hard to process them. It just takes a little time. I scrub them and remove the sheath before I dry them. Then I cut off anything that looks greasy after they are dry. When I'm done I have pure white fibers. I save the clean scraps for glue.
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I throw away the sheath and don't save the Y. Yeah, my sinew may be an inch shorter, but it's still plenty long and a lot easier to process.... relatively speaking.
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Don, the "Y" can be tricky, the fibres go this way and that in there, and if you just use brute force you will for sure tear some.
When pounding, use 2 very smooth surfaces. I use the butt end of a steel wedge supported in a vice, and a hammer. Just keep pounding and pulling right up to the "Y" intersection. You will keep stalling out there, but keep pounding and separating on all 3 parts, and eventually the "Y" intersection will become loose and it all comes apart. No pliers needed.
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Thanks Goat Some of the pieces have quite a taper to them. How do you get them to lay smooth on the bow? I'm finding that if I start shredding from the outside the pieces run by the "Y" a little better
DWS On my elk tendons if I threw away from the "Y" up I'd be losing about 4" of tendon. The tendons are 15-18" long so that I'd be throwing away 1/4
PatM soaking seemed to help but then I have to make sure all the pieces are dry before I bag them. That's not the end of the world though
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What length goes in the glue pot?
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I pound it for a little while on the anvil. Then clamp by the Y in my vice. I then only ever split the pieces in half. Keep going until the 'halves' are fine enough. Don't do it when wet....it is too weak then. 10+ years of rock climbing help get your fingers strong enough ;)
the leg sinew is the best - backstrap is too rough textured at final diameter for me to use. Bear in mind that I am only sinewing hornbows and need the very best/smoothest sinew. Backstrap also doesn't absorb glue as well and the finished backing is a bit 'dry' for hornbows, however it is ok for wood bows and a good burnishing at the correct stage of drying will smooth it off.
Once you have all the sinew halved then it is time to cut off at the Y end and then you remove the 'tapered' sections so that the whole length is one diameter. I do this with my teeth. After they are all the same diameter get a good strong steel comb and comb the ends so that you have a gradual taper (going the correct way now!).
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I watched Gary process a TON of leg Sinew over the Years. He used a Hammer and had a chunk of rail-road rail for an anvil. You don't beat the crap out of it, kinda a finesse thing, practice makes perfect. I believe He always thought Back Sinew was inferior to Leg Tendon, Great for Arrow Wraps and such. Bob
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After shreading & soaking you can lay the tapered bundles out and overlap them by abut 1 1/2 in. The tapers are a non isue also if your having isues with pulling apart the shreads with the pliers a couple needle nose vice scrips help elk sinew is usually preety easy to get apart.
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With tough big legs I use a trim hammer on concrete floor and finesse as not to pound through fibers along the edge. I put 1/2 of the fat end in the table vise and cinch it tight. might smash a tiny bit on the end but that is usually pretty tough anyway. I get a split going of just a nice portion of the free half (can even nick it gently with a sharp hatchet but should be able to get it with pliers) and I pull it without much regard for tearing a few fibers in half. They will still be usable, just as a shorter bunch when done. If I can't get it free all the way I just get another little section and work it the same way. Maybe switch to one of the Y ends and I just keep coming at it this way until I have it down to several bigger cords. You can then tear into them without too much trouble.
As you go you'll start to see how the Y is interlaced and be able to pick out which part to tug next. Sometimes it was worth it to tear a few parts and just accept that these would still be usable as short bundles.
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Is a louse comb too fine for combing out the sinew?
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Yes I would say so. The teeth may bend as well.
They sell paint brush combs at paint stores with what look like finishing nails for teeth. That's what I use. Well a homemade version anyway. A piece of hardwood pre-drilled to hold long finishing nails epoxied in place for the teeth.