Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: gfugal on May 15, 2017, 07:23:20 pm
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How much clearance does an arrow shelf need to account for so it doesn't foul the shot? The first image is an example of very high clearance in a riser handle type bow. The second is an example of medium clearance. You can see that it goes straight up for a bit before tapering out to the width. The last is one that starts tapering almost immediately. Would one like that foul the shot? It seems it would get in the way of the feathers. But I'm not sure if it does. I would like your guy's input.
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I believe the clearance is for aiming(so you can see the target) with a more center shot bow. If an arrow is spined correctly it will bend around that.
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my input is you dont need to cut a shelf,, narrowing the handle is enough,,
some like to cut a shelf,, but if you look at Native american bows, or English long bows etc,
you can see there is really no need,, unless that is just your preference,, (-S
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So I wanted to visually see the arrow move out of the way and I remembered a video I saw once. Here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7zewtuUM_0
At 2:35 and 3:15 you can see it moving around the shelf. It doesn't quite clear it though. the father still catches it but it's on the bottom, not the top. So it doesn't look like it should interfere too much since the feathers obviously can't clear the bottom of the shelf anyway. Didn't think of that.
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if you dont have a shelf,, the feathers wont have to clear that on the bottom,,
your hand is a bit more giving than a piece of wood,, I think giving a softer clearance,, possibley easier to get good arrow flight,, but either way can work great,, I just find shooting off my hand a bit easier to tune,, :)
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I think a fair number of crowded shelves on selfbows likely cause some interference.
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This would possibly be the best since the feathers it rests on would interfere with it less than the shelf or hand, plus have the advantage of being more center shot than just a narrow handle with no shelf. Ideally, the situation later in that video with the falling shelf on the compound would be the best. But at what point does these "ideal" situations overstepped the "traditional" aspect of archery?
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Need lighter spine arrows with a somewhat wider arrow pass too, making it easier to make lighter arrows?.. And it'll still shoot more than fine if the arrow is tuned and your form is decent. I like 1" wide handles.
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gfugal.....Spotted your subject here and will contribute my version of what works for me.First with all things proper....arrow spine,nocking point,form,release,and follow through I want 0 what I call deflection or obstruction to my arrow as it leaves the string.I've accomplished this with a small dot of horn raised ever so slightly so the arrow rides on less then 1/16" of a surface.Other versions work too.Leather can be used but horn lasts longer and is just as quiet.Your form and nocking point have to be perfect to get a quiet clean noiseless release.Feather spine needs to be tapered smooth on the front also but glued down well enough yet too.I watch my arrow flight very closely to confirm it is good.The hard surface will tell on you by making some kind of noise or the arrow may jump.Not the best but here's the best pics I've got.
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1594_zpsw2vimuhw.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1594_zpsw2vimuhw.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1596_zpstlkvvmfo.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1596_zpstlkvvmfo.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1593_zpssxewp7ap.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1593_zpssxewp7ap.jpg.html)
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The arrow only touches the arrow rest or shelf as you draw. Once released the arrow shouldn't touch any part of the bow. Any bow shoots well, no matter if they are cut past center or 1" off center, as long as a properly spined arrow is used.
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DC is correct. Its all about the view from the drivers seat. That's why Olympic bows have 8-9" windows. They hold the bows upright and shoot very long shots, so they need that huge window to "aim". If I cut a shelf in I usually go 2", that's seems to work great for the average joe hunting bow.
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Correct!!! it should'nt Pat but I've seen on some bows that it does and the arrow will kick.Could be attributed to poor release but have seen it happen with a good release too.
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Personally I don't look through the shelf while aiming.
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I don't either, Ed. But gappers have to.
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Ed, there are a lot of things that come into play from poor release to improperly spined arrows to lack of concentration to poor form to all around consistency and more. Form is critical while shooting and should be one of the first things learned. Even though after you've been shooting for a while it seems like ones form went out the window it is still there is your shooting is consistent.
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Doing things the same every time works for me.I suppose I anchor if you want to call it that lower on the face then most but it works for me.I don't need the bow to be straight up and down nor do I need it fully canted,but can shoot either way.I'd rather have it diverse like that myself for different positions of shooting and situations.
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That's where good form comes into the picture no matter if you shoot with the bow straight up and down or canter, if you're shooting over your shoulder, laying flat on the ground or shooting between your legs the triangle of your bow, your bow hand and your anchor line up the same. That consistency is where accuracy comes from.
I know a guy that pulls to the center of his chest and he shoots as well as anyone I know because he is consistent.
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Yes I know of a guy too that challenges anyone shooting here.They can shoot the way they want.He'll shoot from the hip.
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I never got influenced by shooting a compound here.Never shot one yet but can see the value in shooting one to get good habit anchoring form.I feel that can be done as mentioned before with a lighter weight long bow too yet.
Anyway when the arrow leaves I don't want any noise or very little or funny motion from my shaft and then hit my target hopefully.I doubt whether I'll change my set up any time if it keeps working the way it does.It was an evolving thing for me to get to this point mostly on my own losing and breaking arrows....lol over a period of a good 6 months or so at least in the beginning.Too many teachers spoil the broth I think and whatever works consistently for them selves worked out for them selves should be the route to take.
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yes the proof is in the pudding, if you hit what you are aiming at, then you had good form,, (-P
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All that can be hoped for is that the arrow will do the same thing every shot. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT IT DOES, as long as it DOES THE SAME THING every time.
The bow will not change what the arrow does from shot to shot. Only mismatched arrows will make a difference. They don't even have to be TUNED to the bow, as long as they are all alike, they will all fly alike.
I haven't cut a shelf into a handle for 20 years and I've made a LOT of bows that all shot well.
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OOOH, that's purty! :)