Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on May 05, 2017, 01:25:38 pm
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Hi Fellas this is a design I have been pondering for a while I wanted a longer handle/fade area 11 in. To keep the stave length long but the limb mass light I started ruffing down the limb thickness & was planning on 7 in. strait static tips but I only have 1 1/2 width with this stave so I would end up with 21 in working limb @ 1 1/2 wide 67 1/2 in. TTT so my choice is this design or a standard parallel limb design ,I plan on heat treating in 2 in. Of reflex before bending far , so you guys that work with hickory do you think it's doable ?
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67 1/2 in.
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You don't indicate the poundage or draw length you are aiming for so it will be a bit tricky for folks to offer advice.
Ken
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I'm shooting for 48 lb @29 I decided to go with the static design started working the tappers down today I'm probably a little light on width at 1 1/2 but will give it a go .
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Good luck!
want to know how it goes
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21 inches of working limb (per limb?) for a 29 inch draw is asking a lot IMHO.
Jawge
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The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !
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I think you options are open,, if it starts to take accessive set, you can always shorten the handle fades to get more working wood,, (W
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The fades are pretty much fixed at that length due to the hour glass tapering handle if I would go back into the fades they would end up into the narrower part of the limb the other option would be to shorten the levers , this stave is a well seasoned pig nut stave but the statics would be strait not recurved , I know I have seen similar shorter bows with narrower hickory limbs posted here , granted by better bowyers then me , some times it's seems iin new designs there is tuff choices to make using comon sense but there is always risk , I ruffed this bow out a year ago if I were to ruff it out today I would have made different choices (=)
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I am sure you will get a great bow,,very nice stave, (-P
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The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !
How so?
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The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !
How so?
Cut off the levers and the limbs (of the now shorter bow, with the same working limb length) will have to bend more for the same draw length?
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Are you gonna trap the back and/or heat treat the belly?
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The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !
How so?
Cut off the levers and the limbs (of the now shorter bow, with the same working limb length) will have to bend more for the same draw length?
loon, that is how I understand lever bows- you can get away with less working limb because they aren't bending as far due to the levers.
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My take is only if you compare it to a short bow. If you compare it to a bow of the same length look at it this way. The last nine or so inches of a long bow bends a bit. If you turn that nine inches into a stiff lever something else has to bend a little more to make up for it.
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I think you will be close, just monitor the set it takes. If it starts taking set at 25" you will have too much set at 29" and may have to go lighter to avoid it. I would rather have a 42# bow with no set than a 48# bow with 2" set.
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The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !
How so?
Cut off the levers and the limbs (of the now shorter bow, with the same working limb length) will have to bend more for the same draw length?
Why would levers change that? You're actually crowding MORE bend into the limb, as DC notes.
loon, that is how I understand lever bows- you can get away with less working limb because they aren't bending as far due to the levers.
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Thanks Fellas some good thoughts here maybe I will lighteen my target weight a bit hopefully with a good heat treat I can minimise set ! Some times I have to stop thinking and just put the rasp to the wood & find out.
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Ritch....I feel too tillering the bow maintaining the woods integrity you'll enjoy more like Badger said if it turns out that way for ya.Heat treated hickory will surprise you though.I've got an osage at that stage right now.It's tillered retainaining a nice reflex.I started too narrow so my draw weight is'nt quite up to what I want.I've thought of piking it,but I'm gonna leave it be as it is.
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Pat & DC I was making the comparason to if the bow had no levers & had 21 in working limbs for a ttt of 53 in. With no levers ! As opposed to levers & 67 ttt
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Not a good comparison.
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:NN
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Here is some other thoughts , Im still learning on what options are avalible when given a paticular set of options but I was thinking wrong in terms of lengething the fades I could go back into the handle in sudbury fashion & get the handle bending ever so slightly lengthing the fades, trap & heat treat, kinda sudbury static bow ?
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I would'nt Rich.Don't think that will help much for a longer working limb.That is set IF your handle arrow pass and width is carved in already.A top view will reveal what your concern might be.I think you'll be ok the way you got it.I personally am going to start to lengthen my handles too maybe a 1/2".
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I think Beadman is right, get it bending the way you have it,, and see how it reacts,, if you need to make some adjustments later,, fine,, make the tips bend a bit more or into the fades a bit,, to get the draw you need without too much set,, and as suggested,,, come in at a lighter poundage to reduce stress even more,, if needed,, the bow gonna tell you what you need to do by the time you get to 3/4 draw,,
if it was mine,, I would be shooting through the chrono at 3/4 draw as well,, it will tell you if you are on the right track or not,, if the speed starts to max out before you get to full draw, you may not have enought working limb,, (R
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Ok thanks fellas I will just roll with it as is with a target of 45lb @29 in ,to much thinking on my end better get to work on it before Im to old to pull it back 😳
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yes we wanna see that thing shoot,, (-P
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I like the way you think about the Sudbury style bow. To reduce set, I would keep the limbs as thick as possible and trap them until I get the desired draw weight.
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if the speed starts to max out before you get to full draw, you may not have enought working limb
interesting concept Brad. I have never played with a chrono as I tiller a bow. Could you explain your idea with a little more detail? About the speed maxing out?
Thanks
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willie ,, sent pm
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I figured I would post some up dates on the design sense Brad is anxiously waiting , I took the limbs down to a flat proud 5/8 in. and could see what looked like a minor whipitido really translated to major tip deflex I have heat treated hickory before but never did limb corrections with it ,so I quickly learned hickory can be stubborn with dry heat it's not hedge for sure but it was a matter of finding the sweet spot in this case it was about 400 Deg F and it bent nicely it always amazes me how minor deflex near the handle fades translates to serious deflex at the tips , sense I'm going to be pushing this bow a bit I precetion tapered the the limbs to 5/8 at the handle fades to 7/16 at the static fades I'm leaving the last working 3rd thick in order to narrow it up for bending & lighting the outer 3rd , after floor tiller I'm going to heat treat in increasing reflex of 4 in. in hopes of keeping 2 after tiller I'm shooting for a 170fps bow at 10gpp & using FF at 43lb @29 I will post updates as I go.
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After
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Limb tappers
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thats looking great so far,, -C-
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Thanks Brad just wanted to show you I stoped talking and started working 🤔
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I need to do the same, you setting a great example,, (R keep up the good work,, (-P
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I ended up at 20 in. working limb 66 1/2 ntn it's tillered to 20 in. @43 lb. It's taking very even minor set going to tiller to about 24 in. & heat treat the reflex in. 43 lb. Is now the target weight , I think it's going to work out .
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Set
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That's coming along nice for ya.
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ok shoot it through the chrono now,, so i can guess what its gonna do at full draw,,
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Those statics are to thick still like 13/16 or better probably need at least 3 1/2 oz removed yet I'm going to Eiffel Tower in the end if I shot it now I would have to visit the dentist after :laugh:
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PS my guess with tiller string 20 in. @43 lb 530 grain 81 fps (SH)
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well ok,,, but I think its gonna do at least 130,, thats my guess,,at the 20 inches
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If I can pull off 170 fps 43lbs @29 10 gpp with a light string in the end I would be real happy this hickory stave wants to be a bow no groans so far !