Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: upstatenybowyer on December 05, 2016, 06:25:21 pm

Title: snake skin question
Post by: upstatenybowyer on December 05, 2016, 06:25:21 pm
So I read up on the application of snake skins and gave my first one a try. I used the "blue painter's tape method." The skin has adhered well to the back of the bow and when I removed the tape the scales came off easily. However, as you can see from the photo, where the scales were, the skin lifts up a little. This gives the back a rough texture when you run your hand against (as opposed to with) the scales. Is this normal, or is there a way to flatten everything down so the back is smooth?

By the way, I used one of the sides of a very wide timber rattler. Thanks! 
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: osage outlaw on December 05, 2016, 06:37:37 pm
It's normal.  The bigger the scales the rougher it can be.  Smaller scales are usually smoother.  Some people coat the back with superglue to make it smooth.  I tried it once and it turned white.  It made the skin look like it had frost on it.  I won't be doing that any more.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Bryce on December 05, 2016, 06:46:23 pm
It's normal.  The bigger the scales the rougher it can be.  Smaller scales are usually smoother.  Some people coat the back with superglue to make it smooth.  I tried it once and it turned white.  It made the skin look like it had frost on it.  I won't be doing that any more.
Gotta use the right kind of super glue. It's called 'tite chairs' and you can find it at ace. It's also the best glue I've found for cracks and small checks.
Just wipe and the. Off and it makes the skins set so they can be smoothed out with fine sanding paper.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Eric Krewson on December 05, 2016, 06:55:39 pm
Don't know if you pulled the scales off head to tail, going the opposite way makes the skin edges stand up.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: wizardgoat on December 05, 2016, 07:13:15 pm
Have never used the super glue method.
After a few coats of tru oil or tung oil, I gently rub
the skins with fine steel wool. I usually get rid of all the little flaky things on the first go,
But after another couple coats of finish you can do it again if you missed a few.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: upstatenybowyer on December 05, 2016, 08:16:27 pm
Thanks boys. I think part of it was the big scales as Outlaw suggested. The center of the skin, which I'm saving for a special bow, has much smaller scales. These ones must have been on the flank/moving toward the bottom of the snake. I think I'll try Wizard's method on this one (the skins on your yew/copperhead bow looked sharp  8))

P.S. Eric, I'll remember how to pull the tape next time.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Danzn Bar on December 05, 2016, 08:23:34 pm
Yep...I do it like Goat.  I've used 600 grit sand paper after a couple coats of finish.
DBar
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: osage outlaw on December 05, 2016, 09:06:16 pm
I don't use tape any more to remove the scales.  I have been pushing them off with my fingers in the direction that they flow.  I've even used an air gun to blow them off. 

Bryce, I'll look for that glue.  I don't remember seeing it around here.  Our local Ace store was burned down by some idiot kids so I can't look for it there.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Bryce on December 05, 2016, 09:14:49 pm
I don't use tape any more to remove the scales.  I have been pushing them off with my fingers in the direction that they flow.  I've even used an air gun to blow them off. 

Bryce, I'll look for that glue.  I don't remember seeing it around here.  Our local Ace store was burned down by some idiot kids so I can't look for it there.
It's great stuff! I always have a couple bottles on hand. It hangs next to the epoxy's and comes in a sealed red and silver pouch.
It travels deep into cracks and is great on the skins.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Cloudfeather on December 05, 2016, 09:47:18 pm
I've used watered down TBIII to get them to lay and somewhat glue down. I let it sit overnight then start my finish. After a coat of shellac and a couple coats of tru oil, you can steel wool whatever is still there. Like Goat says.

The watered down TBIII might be an unnecessary step, but it works for me. To each their own. :)
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: PEARL DRUMS on December 06, 2016, 07:11:48 am
Compressed air takes the cake for the easiest and best way for me to remove them.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: ---GUTSHOT---> on December 06, 2016, 07:25:49 am
I still use the tape method. But I also use a hacksaw blade and scrape the back of my bow before using TBIII to glue the skin down with. Never had one to lift. I put tung oil on my skins and hit them with 2k grit sandpaper after I apply Helsman satin clear spray.
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: Pappy on December 06, 2016, 07:54:28 am
I get off with my thumb nail what I can and then do like wizard. Tried tap but ripped a skin once so I don't do that anymore.  :)
 Pappy
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: burchett.donald on December 06, 2016, 08:38:14 am
   I like the look....Think it looks El'natural...
                                                                  Don
Title: Re: snake skin question
Post by: BowEd on December 06, 2016, 10:02:26 am
In time while shooting the bow in I just pick off any remaining scales off.Tried the tape method once and never again.
For glue another option or address is the Basket Makers' Catalog OO.They've got ultra thin and gell.I use accelerator spray from them too.Pretty nice.