Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Skeaterbait on October 31, 2016, 09:29:51 am
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So, I am not new to selfbows but certainly not an expert either so I have a question that I hope I can explain well enough to be understood. I have a full grasp of ring violation, violation bad!!!!. But what about the layout of the bows length? I have always followed the grain along the stave and laid out a centerline, from that I have laid out the bows shape by measuring out from the centerline. So basically, the snakier the stave, the snakier the bow.
But I have also heard it said that, after chasing the ring, "you just lay your pattern down and trace it". How bad is it to do this?
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You need to follow the longitudinal grain as you mentioned you usually do. You don't want run off on the sides no more than you have to. ;)
Pappy
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You have to find the centerline of the bowfollowing the grain, then you lay out the profilefollowing the centerline. If you just snap a line there will be an over abundance of grain violations compared to following the grain with the centerline
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Thank you gentlemen, I suspected that would the answer.
I am curious though, and please don't take this as argument, just curious, how do board bows get by this the amount of violations?
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Hes following the crown of the stave is the way to go.
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A straight grain on a board bow is required.The tapering width to the tips you keep to a minimum.A bow will have less stress on the outer third to the tips.That's why it can handle those staggered longitudal violations.That's just the way it is.Even on a self bow.
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Thank you for additional info.
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I mark the center and the tips then put some string on which ends I tie hammers. I position the string to pass through center (or as closely to it) and each tips. With this I can mark the exact center of the bow and see if string would pass through it (it must to prevent rotating in hand while drawing).
Then I connect these three marks with line which will follow the grain of the wood. When I got that, I divide line, going from center to tips in increments, lets say 10 cm apart from each other.
Then I put necessary dimensions on each increment line for the bow layout and connect everything. With this you can easily get any shape you want, without any error.
I also use AutoCAD to see what dimensions are at each increment.
NOTE: I don't do side tillering and that is why my bow layout is in "finished" dimensions, but thickness taper I do very roughly, allowing tillering to do all work.
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Skeater, I know what you are saying.
As was mentioned, when making a board bow, choose straight grained stock so your choice of board automatically compensates for that center line.
More on my site.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
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I don't care much about character staves. Wood splits easily. If you simply split your stave until you get to the width you want, you don't need to worry about the grain so much. Start splitting instead of sawing. You would love it.
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A straight grain on a board bow is required.The tapering width to the tips you keep to a minimum.A bow will have less stress on the outer third to the tips.That's why it can handle those staggered longitudal violations.That's just the way it is.Even on a self bow.
skeaterbait....I did'nt mean to confuse you by saying to keep the tapering width to a minimum meaning to keep it wide.The outside or last 10" of a bow to the tips has a lot less stress put on it meaning it's ok to narrow it down.I'm sure you've figured it out.Sounds like you got an ellptical tillering job in the future there.Lets' see it when you get er done.