Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: sleek on October 11, 2016, 05:46:15 pm
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My arrows buck, they twist, they wag, they mis the target completely, they damn near do the hokey pokey and turn themselves around.
I shot some sunday and did so bad I lost some arrows and broke a stone hunting point. I am using two fletch turkey store bought feathers ( killed a dear last year perfect shot with this style) cane shafts, and stone points. I am pinpoint with my target arrows, with duolex nail field tips, make one with stone and the arrows flies like drunk bee.
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:(
may need to go down in spine since stone is pretty light? dunno
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When I'm tuning my hunting arrows to a bow........
I use glue on traditional target points. when I have the right combination I remove the glue on point a replace it with a stone point. I use cane shafts, so if the stone point is lighter I add a lead nail or weight to the center of the shaft before I put the stone point on to match the glue on target point.
DBar
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What method do you use to attatch your stone points?
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I did like Bill when I needed more weight up front. I drilled out the bamboo shaft and glued a 16 penny nail shaft in it so it stopped at the base of the notch for the stone or trade point.
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Do you guys weigh each arrow and get them all the same.
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Joe,
At distance less the 20 yards....80 grains difference doesn't make a difference IMHO for a target of 6" in dia.
DBar
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What method do you use to attatch your stone points?
Sleek,
I go for durability.....I use 5 min epoxy with charcoal dust mixed in (for looks) and used what ever thread to tie it on while the epoxy is a little soft. The point breaks before it comes off................
DBar
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It's hard to get even weights when using cane or bamboo shafts unless you have a lot of shaft material to sort through. I pay more attention to the spine stiffness than the overall weight. But I only like to shoot 20 yards or less.
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It's hard to get even weights when using cane or bamboo shafts unless you have a lot of shaft material to sort through. I pay more attention to the spine stiffness than the overall weight. But I only like to shoot 20 yards or less.
Your right Clint a "lot of shaft material".........
DBar
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You probably already know this, but are you cutting your nocks with the stiff side of the cane towards the bow?
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I havent paid any attention to that mullet. I dont have a spine tester, just kinda bent them by hand to feel for over all spine.
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Hey sleek,
All you need is 2 nails 26" apart nailed level in a wall and a 2# weight to hang in the center. Use an arrow you have that works well for you and use it to figure out the deflection you need (mark it on the wall). Get your new arrow, spin the arrow around and the stiff side will show itself by lifting the weight up, slide the shaft back and forth until it matches your test arrow deflection. Use that marked side against your bow.I hope that makes sense. I'm no arrow master but that's how I do it and its worked for me. 8)
Cheers
Thunder
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Can not having the stiff side facing the bow cause the arrows to porpoise in flight?
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I try and put the stiff side toward the bow, but I tune mine 1 at a time using a field tip and then as others said make my hunting head match that weight, you can shorten the shaft if you need it stiffer or leave longer for weaker to get the spline to match the bow, I do all of this before fletching. Also the nock point will cause the porpoise up and down, spline will usually cause wagging the tail left and right. Cain can be a bear to tune sometimes. Sometimes you can just flip them around on the nock and they will shoot better. :)
Pappy
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Im gonna try all the above, but if someone were so inclined, id be happy to ship my hunting bow to them to have them make me a set of 6 for it.
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As others said, it's probably a spine issue. How heavy are your target points? If they are heavier than your stone points, the arrows will fly differently. You'll need either weaker arrows (thinner or longer) or heavier points (or insert a nail in the cane). An arrow that is not flying straight will not penetrate well at all.
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I do as pappy does, and bare shaft tune my arrows with the same weight field points as the stone points I intend on hunting with. I will fletch mine after getting good flight and continue to practice with the field points on to get familiar and comfortable with them before I mount my hunting points.
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Also D Bar's primitive nock tracers help a lot when it comes to seeing your arrows flight
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As just said make a spine tester and bare shaft test. My last arrows I started with 45# on a 55# D bow and used 145 grain field points. Then shot the target at 10 yards. Nocks hit left showing underspined as my points were too heavy for the flex of the arrow. So I dropped to 125 grain and they shot pretty close. Then test them all and if any kick right you sand the center of the shaft to reduce spine a little.
Here is a really simple guide from Three river archery on bare shaft tuning.
https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/2011ShaftTuningChart.pdf
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I totally agree with everyone Sleek. Can't believe how much I learned about arrows from bare shafting. One thing I would add is if you have a target point arrow that shoots great and you put same weight stone point on and it flies crazy it might be that your not getting point on straight enough. I actually like pitch glue for halvting points because if I spin test them and there off a little I can heat pitch up again and get everything straight. If you have point on at a angle it will make it fly crazy too, but I suspect arrow isn't tuned to bow. As far as giving your bow to someone else and having them make you arrows might not work great. Just like everything else in archery consistency is so important they might shoot great for whoever made them and still not right for you. Shoot shafts are a labor of love, they take way more time than most people realize but once you get that 1st one to shot perfect the rest are a lot easier to duplicate.
Bjrogg
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Man this is a good thread. Thanks to the orginator and all others for posting!!!
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Are you weighing stone points before adding them? The standard target point is 125 grains and I don't use stone point as they are illegal in Maryland. I have always read most are much lighter than steel broadheads. 100 grains makes the arrow 5# over spined and 75 grains 10# over spined.
If the head is balanced to the tip we would haft the head and spin it on its tip while spinning the arrow. You can tell if its lop sided and needs to be remounted. Heavy to one side and its gonna shoot like crap.