Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bjrogg on July 17, 2016, 09:57:45 am
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I'm just wondering what are the best products to use for sealing and finishing a bow? So far I've just used water base polycrylic. I really have know idea if it's good or not it's just all I could find at the time. I'm not real concerned about it being a natural or primitive material although that would be fine I just want something that's going to keep moisture out be durable without a lot of up keep. I would like to use this bow for hunting so I'd like to keep reflection down. Also where to find these products.
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My go to finish is tru-oil gunstock finish made by birchwood-Casey. You can pick it up at cabela's and other outfitters and some gun stores or order it from Brownells in Montezuma Ia. Don't get the big bottle. It'll dry out before you ever use 1/2 of it finishing bows. I like it because you can touch it up at anytime without having to refinish the entire bow. For a matte finish there are several techniques that work well. The most popular is to lightly mist the bow with matte spray poly after the tru-oil is dry. My preferred method is to let the tru-oil cure for a bout 4 hrs and then buff it with my bare CLEAN hand. This produces a nice satin finish. Josh
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Thunderbird bow finish. I've used many different finishes, but it just doesn't get any better than T-bird... not yet anyway. I won't use anything else.
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Thanks D.W.S where do you get that? Is that the same people as Tunderbird Atlatl?
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I prefer tung oil
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What is tung oil and where would I buy it? I'm thinking something that they would use for guitar's would work too.
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My vote is for Tru-oil. I do about 8-9 light coats and then wet sand it with 600 grit. After that I polish it with a slurry of oil and pumice powder.
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Magna lac/dull finish works great for me.Outdoor finish.Quick too as a spray preferably.
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I always hit my bows with 2-3 coats of shellac, then 4-6 coats of tung oil.
Everyone has their own methods, try out a few things till you find what works for you
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That's one of the many things I love about this site. Allways more than one way to skin a cat or finish a bow thanks guys I'm taking in all the suggestions
Bjrogg
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I like Helmsman spray in a clear satin. I like shellac, tung oil, wax in successive coats. I like Tru Oil. I like just several coats of tung oil and wax to. A lot depends on the bows use as to which one I reach for. I have a few that are nothing but shellac and wax.
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Tru oil is like tung or linseed oil (boiled?) mixed with varnish and a solvent
I did a mix of amber shellac and tru oil, just to make it darker.. don't know if it makes the finish weaker, likely does
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I do just like Josh(Gun Doc)said and I spray satin poly to reduce the shine. I've used Tru-Oil for many bows over many years and never had a problem with it...and I use it on bows and arrows.
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Thanks for all the ideas guys I think I'm kinda leaning towards the instructions Josh and Pat gave me but it sure is interesting seeing what everybody does. Nobody said water based polycrylic don't know if that's because it's not as good or just because I already tried it.
Bjrogg
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The best finishing product I have ever seen is japanese lacquer, those traditional craftsman always apply on horn bows or Yumi.
Tung oil is secondary choice, as lacquer is much more expensive and sometimes causes deadly allergy.
I have tried wax oil once and I found it looks great and well waterproof, but I'm not sure about its duration.
In addition, I saw someone apply heated bee wax on the wood self bow and it looks nice, too.
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Fullerplast is whats used on good guitars. I use a local car spray shop to do mine now. Tbird/fullerplast/buffalo hide bow finish are all very good but you need a spray shop for them really. Tru-oil is pretty good but not the toughest finish around.
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I use Danish oil on all of my bows. It brings out the colour in the wood but doesn't really make it shiny unless you put on thick coats and don't rub them off.
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My osage bows get 3 coats t Tru Oil to seal the grain and 3 coats of spar urethane.
Bows from other woods get multiple coats of spar urethane.
Jawge
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I really like minwax wipe on polyurethane, or spray polyurethane. I don't think any of the oil finishes compare in toughness. You can always wax it if you really need more moisture protection. It's idiot-proof to apply, it's relatively inexpensive, it's readily available, and all you need is a rag.
If I need to grain fill I will use superglue, then poly over that.
I guess it's harder to repair perfectly if you chipped or scratched it, but it's so much more resistant to scratching and cracking, that I don't sweat it. A light sand with steel wool, wipe with acetone, one coat of poly .... That will fix a lot of your minor damage sufficiently and takes minimal time.