Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Blayne on June 17, 2016, 09:08:55 am
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As a new convert to using OS as an arrow wood, I have been shooting the heck out of them, just to see how tough they are. This one caught me off guard. My normal wood shafts would have busted right at the taper. Not these guys! WOW! I loosed this out of my new 62# Yew selfbow at about 15 yards. Arrow weighs 900 grains. Most have hit a pretty hard spot on the old fir stump.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn146/tailgate77/9A30773A-9810-43F2-A1CB-BE967D6AC485.jpg) (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/tailgate77/media/9A30773A-9810-43F2-A1CB-BE967D6AC485.jpg.html)
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What are you using for points on those?
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Penderbender those are Ace hex blunts. I like them way more than Judos!
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How did you taper the shaft? I had a tip start to split like that and I suspected that I tapered it wrong. I did it by eye :-[ :-[ I also thought it might be a faulty(cheap) tip. I never really hit anything hard with mine.
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^^ not doubting the wood one bit, but a proper wood taper should take the brunt of the impact load and transfer it to the rest of the shaft.
a trick that works is to spray wd40 into the inside taper of one of the empty field points or blunts.
place the point in some pliers, then fill the point with hot glue. immediately get a bamboo skewer and push it into the center of the glue and let it cool.
when it cools, remove the popsicle and you'll have a perfect mold to match your arrow tapers to.
you will most likely have to trim the over flow glue after it dries, but afterward, this will really allow you to see how much you need to taper for that specific point.
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Thanks! They look pretty sweet!
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I whittled them down and used a pencil sharpener type taper tool. 11/32. Pretty simple.