Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sidmand on June 06, 2016, 01:25:07 pm
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I'm considering sinewing a bow for the bow swap I'm in, but I don't know if I have enough time for it to cure before August. How long would a couple of courses take to cure/polymerize? I'm in Alabama, hot as all get out, but it's been real humid of late to, so I'm sure that would work against it. The bow doesn't need sinew, but I thought it would be a nice little touch.
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Sidmand, I have done several and live in hot humid Florida. I'm letting mine season for a month tops now because there is very little difference that I can see going longer. I'm using sinew scrap glue I make and put them up in my bedroom closet to season. (coolest and least humid room in my house).
Hope this helps in your decision.
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if the courses are not that thick,, and you keep it in the house where it is not that humid,, you might make it,, I have done them in Texas in summer and hot,, and waited a few weeks,,, it won't hurt the bow to start a bit early,, but depending on where you send it,, it might pick up some weight,, maybe one course since the bow doesn't need it,,, and that will dry quicker,,, the ones a started a bit quick,, shot well, they just picked up weight after a few weeks,, like 5 or 6 pounds,,
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Thanks guys! I might give it a shot this weekend, and give it a month to dry before I finish it up. I will get that guy tillered out to around 27 inches or so first, so that there won't be to much left to do afterwards.
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I have only done 2 sinew Bows ,one I let cure for 4 weeks inside dry climate and the other 3 weeks both turned out fine but picked up weight over a short Period of time like Brad said ,there are so many different opinions on cure times from 4 weeks to 6 months and beyond but in Laubins book American Indian Archery he claimed 4 weeks cure and working the bow was a advantage ,the one I did in three weeks I hung about 7 ft. Over a heater vent in winter I'm not recommending any one way just saying what I did since your short on time.
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1mm thick = 2 weeks
2mm = 4 weeks
3mm = 9 weeks
4mm = 16 weeks
5mm - 25 weeks.
Put it on in 1mm thick layers and leave 2 weeks in between layers.
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I live out here in Utah it's pretty hot and dry. I usually let my sinew bows cure for a couple of months before I tiller them. Then I will wait 6 months or longer before I put any finish on them just because they gain poundage and sometimes throws the tiller out of whack.
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Personally if it doesn't need it don't do it, just mho but a "nice touch" is skins or finish work, sinew is structural and if i don't design a bow for it i don't use it
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If I want to cure it quicker I take it to work with me and leave it in my truck in 90 degree weather.
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Wooden bows don't really need the extra strength but slowly cured sinew allows the glue to form more/stronger bonds.
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I've made a half dozen or so sinew backed bows and always gave them plenty of time to cure between layers(1 month or so) and at the end before finishing. Whether it is necessary or not I don't know but it is worth it to me. A lot of work goes into building a sinew backed bow so I don't get in a rush building or finishing them.
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Personally I don't fancy retillering 2 to 3 months later myself,but if your in a hurry that's what can happen.Making other bows while a sinewed bow is curing is what I do.
If I sinew a bow in the summer when humidity is higher I always have a dehumidifier[runs about 7$ a month] running keeping things around 50% humidity or possibly less.A light fan blowing on it can help too.Air movement.Putting it outside in the sun with the wind blowing can help too.
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You should if sinewed right now be able to get it cured by Aug.1st. but it'll have to be done before that if you plan to put finish/a snake skin/etc. on it so it's your call.A couple of thin courses is your best bet but then like said earlier you might as well just use thin rawhide then too if it's just for protection.
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low humidity and keep it cool. Believe what u want but I've tried both and know what works!
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thanks again for all the feedback guys - it has been most helpful. Since the sinew on this one was more for looks than for function I will probably just skip it and do another decorative backing of some kind. The stave looks real good and seems to be holding fine, so I've no worries on it blowing, and It looks like I'm going to hit my weight, so again, no worries. But, I will certainly take all this to heart for the next bow I make, which will be sinew backed - it's going to be my hunting bow this year.
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What sort of looks exactly were you going for?
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primitive - NA style. Very simple, like something strait off the plains but with a little bit of flair. Would have liked the very organic look of sinew on the back, but I have some other ideas.
It's for the 2016 bow swap, so I want it to look nice, but I don't have a lot in the way of stuff right now for "fancy-fication". What I do have is a decent amount of backstrap and leg sinew, some cow rawhide, some antler and some 1/8" X 1" wide by 6" long maple. Also have some just and sisal twine. Maybe I can do a Sisal twine backing, that aught to look neat on an Osage selfbow. I do know I'm going to stain the back and a bit of the tip with vinagroon.