Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Scallorn on March 05, 2016, 11:58:44 pm
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Question for the more experienced. I have an osage sapling that has been seasoning for about a year and a half. After splitting and removing bark the stave is pretty thin. Question is can i leave the sap wood on for the back? It also has several pin knots and any advice on how to deal with those would be greatly appreciated. I'm used to working hickory, elm, and other white woods but this is a while new game.
Thanks
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Yes You can leave the sapwood on, it'll be just fine un less horribly violated. Have fun - those Limb Bows are FUN. Bob
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Sapwood, even one year seasoned sapwood, tends to check badly once the bark is removed. To avoid this, coat with shellac immediately after removing bark.
Another issue is that it tends to degrade much more quickly than heartwood. So storage after cutting should be indoors.
Assuming you have done these things, it can certainly work in a bow, as many have shown. That said, a sapwood limb bow can be tricky and I would not have liked to have tackled one as my first osage bow. As you have already seen, pins and small branches are prevalent and must be worked carefully. Be sure to take your time and ask advice here. Do you have any pics of the stave?
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I'll get some pictures up later so y'all can evaluate. Thanks for the advice so far
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Yeah, the question is "how thin is thin".
I just finished a 60+ pound elm flatbow from a 5" sapling about 68" long, and it's barely 1/2" thick anywhere, and 2" wide plus. A black locust bow of similar length was only on the fat side of 3/8". This is after heat treating.
If the sapling is small you can chase a ring on the sap wood and leave a sap wood back. Sap wood back is fine, sap wood belly I have heard isn't so great. And, even on osage, you can always leave it wider.