Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Arrowbuster on February 26, 2016, 12:32:18 pm
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I'm on my way to getting my first bow tillered. In doing so I had to get up into my lower limb fade. As a result what I have now, is a longer lower limb. Should I simply just cut some off or should I work on upper limb fade to lengthen that limb?
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Just tiller each limb and make it balance in your hand. Limb length doesn't matter.
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Could we see it braced and not on the tiller tree? I think I can see some of what your talking about but a better view would be helpful. If what I think I see is correct, I would work the other fade to match, but I can't say for certain because the fades are blocked from view partially.
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Pearl drums, so get it close on the pulley system, shape the handle how I want then start working on tiller from drawing it by hand? I would assume I'd do this by videoing myself drawing bow?? I hate to ask dumb questions but I'm green. I'm learning a lot. Speaking of dumb questions, I am hooking to my string with bow in tree pretty much where arrow cutout is. Is this where I want to do that? I've noticed the limbs act a lot different depending on where you center bow.
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I will take some more pics and show one braced this afternoon. I don't have any right now besides the one I posted.
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"Pearl drums, so get it close on the pulley system, shape the handle how I want then start working on tiller from drawing it by hand? I would assume I'd do this by videoing myself drawing bow??
Yes, or just have someone snap a full draw digi. I aim for the bottom limb slightly stiffer by a 1/4" or so.
Jawge
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Jawge, how close to final weight should I get on tree before I start the tillering method Pearl Drums and yourself mentioned?
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10# heavy is a good start.
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Here's a pic of low brace
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Right side is heavier by 3-5#. Bit stiff in the middle to. Left side is a bit stiff the first 10".
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Pearl that's the kind of input I like.
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Some limb adjustment.
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I think I need to take some off the top limb, from the fade to mid limb. What do yall think??
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Just a few scrapes at a time. You should be using a scraper-like tool. Exercise at short pulls. Check tiller often. You can leave it strung but watch you don't cut the string. Jawge
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I have been studying pics and I now retract previous post. To me one pic of my last 2 looks like I need to take some off top and the other viewed from the other side of bow looks like some needs to come off bottom. I do have a little prop twist in the top limb and I guess its throwing things off. This stuff is kind of tough to get right, but man I am loving building bows. Its pretty addicting.
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George, I have been using a cabinet scraper on this last little bit.
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Oh good. I never let my stave get more than 3 # over final draw weight. When I take it down from the rope and pulley only minor adjustments are needed.
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That is looking pretty good. If it feels good balance and draw weight wise? Go shoot it 100 times and lets see what it says.
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Yes prop twist will try and fool the naked eye. I find it more prevalent in plains style nocks. Single on the top and double on the bottom. Or vice versa. Welcome to the addiction
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I agree wit Pearl,, shoot is a bit and see how it does,, looking good,,
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That is looking pretty good. If it feels good balance and draw weight wise? Go shoot it 100 times and lets see what it says.
Looks like the outer thirds are going for a ride. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Done a little work to her today and shot her a bunch. Shoots real good hand shock is minimal with just a little buzz after the shot. Think I can take care of that with string silencers. Also my string is pretty thick because I got it twisted up to fit bow. I think once I make one and mount silencers I will have a shooter.
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Good work. I have some bows that are great with no silencers and some that need a bit of help. I cant explain each case, nor do I want to go through the list of variables. It just seems a few are angels from bow heaven, yet look like the rest.
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I would like to thank everyone for the help and the valuable input. I can see I have a lot to learn but I enjoy it very much. Awesome seeing an arrow fly true out of a bow you made yourself.
I have another question concerning my grip shape. How much can I roll the edges over into the back. I want it a lot more rounded because the edges are not comfortable.
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Myself, I leave about a 1/2" wide band of intact back on my grips. Just draw a centerline on the back for a guideline and work the grip around to it. It will feel 10x better.
Option B: Leave it as is and glue a few pieces of 1/8 x 1 x 4" slabs of cork on it with wood glue. Then shape it with sandpaper.
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I wrap the handle/cork in an ACE bandage so I know its conformed to the back as it dries hard.
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Thanks for the quick reply Pearl.