Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on February 21, 2016, 08:48:10 pm
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On a spliced bow is there a preferred way to orient the splice if you are planning to cut a notch? In the picture in relation to the splice( never mind left or right hand) which position is better, red or black? The notches are supposed to be the same height. An artist, I'm not.
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That splice looks good man!! I wouldn't cut a notch...maybe slightly narrow it and throw a floppy rest on that bad boy. Just imoo.
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On a spliced bow is there a preferred way to orient the splice if you are planning to cut a notch? In the picture in relation to the splice( never mind left or right hand) which position is better, red or black? The notches are supposed to be the same height. An artist, I'm not.
I haven't cut a "notch" on a spliced or one-piece bow in more than 15 years. Wouldn't think of it. It's not needed and weakens the bow. I've been making take-downs with a section of tubular steel for a handle splice. The tubing is either 1-1/8" or 1-1/16" in diameter. I have no trouble hitting what I want to hit with no "shelf" or "cut out."
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I wasn't going to go very deep. :-[ I just wanted opinions on which side would weaken it the least. I will be narrowing the handle some, it's still 1 1/4" wide. I will probably leave a bit of a shelf. I guess what I should have asked was, next time I splice a bow do I leave the splice this way or reverse it. Or should a lefty have a reversed splice?
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The splice looks perfect I would not worry much about cutting into it. Just make your handle as narrow as possible and decide from there to cut into it or not, a narrower handle is better as long as it has depth the arrow does not have to work as hard to make it around the handle. I repaired an old bow and made a small shelf about 3/8" works great. If you are that worried about it cut into the black section.
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You will be adding an abrupt angle to an otherwise smooth surface. Do as ajooter suggested and narrow the pass area and add a floppy rest... or even a leather, wood or cork shelf. Smooth rounded areas have less chance of splintering than an abrupt angular cut.
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If the idea of a shelf is a must for you, I would suggest adding material to create one instead of removing it. Sometimes I like to slide a small wedge of antler under the handle wrap. It pushes out the leather far enough for the arrow to rest on. I think cutting a shelf will cause more problems than it will solve especially that close to a splice.
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Nothing wrong with an arrow pass, but lots of ways to get around it, including just leaving it.
Something to think about for next ime, though is maybe positioning the splice right in the grip portion of the handle. Then you can cut in slightly (don't overdo) an inch or so above where the splice ends, and still have room for good fade-outs below the grip.