Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: loon on January 28, 2016, 03:44:36 am
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Was thinking of shelling out on a lot of tonkin bamboo for making arrows, but I'm thinking twice after seeing this thread.
https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,17547.0/nowap.html
I thought tonkin was very durable. If you have tonkin bamboo arrows, do you find them to be brittle? Any breakages?
Maybe I should find some phragmites... which probably wouldn't be much stronger? But a lot lighter, and ideally free
Thanks
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My experience is somewhat limited so wait for other replies but from what I've heard and the way I read the thread you linked tonkin is brittle only compared to some other canes like river cane and hill cane. Compared to most shaft woods it's way stronger. I'm not sure exactly what species of boo my arrows are made of, I bought them completed from china, but I will say I will never go back to wood again (and that's not just because I need 35" arrows, lol).
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I don't think they are brittle. At the Classic and Marshall I like to shoot them at steel drums on the course. It makes a cool noise. I've found they are very hard to break.
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I like to shoot them at steel drums on the course. It makes a cool noise.
If that's not a "ringing" endorsement....
I'll get me coat
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but I will say I will never go back to wood again (and that's not just because I need 35" arrows, lol).
Dogwood and honeysuckle would probably be a hell of a lot more durable than cedar and pine, but not as light as cane? :p
Would like me some barreled hardwood arrows for a heavy bow, one day.
Seems like tonkin is pretty heavy too.. Still interested in others' opinions.
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Strongest arrow ive ever shot
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There is a big difference in shooting the Tonkin that is straight as carbons that have been ground completely smooth and Carmelized at high temperatures and shooting raw shafts that has been straightened.
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I've shot lots of bamboo arrows, and much prefer them over any wood!!! Honestly, I would rather pay for bamboo if I had to, then get free wood arrows.
Tattoo Dave
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There is a big difference in shooting the Tonkin that is straight as carbons that have been ground completely smooth and Carmelized at high temperatures and shooting raw shafts that has been straightened.
Exactly...............big difference. ;)
DBar
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Hope the shafts I'll order soon won't have too many cracks... hopefully I can post pictures of not too terrible looking arrows in a while
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I purchased a bundle of 100 ground,straightened and carmelized bamboo shafts about 5 years ago. They were great! No complaints. I still have a few, I've been shooting all this time, and they're still shooting great. I would buy more if needed, but I now have a pile of river cane I traded for.
Tattoo Dave
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There is a big difference in shooting the Tonkin that is straight as carbons that have been ground completely smooth and Carmelized at high temperatures and shooting raw shafts that has been straightened.
Exactly...............big difference. ;)
DBar
My preference is raw shafts straighten properly, spinned and crafted/built to the bow.....those other ones are too brittle and break easily.......
JIMHO
DBar
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I agree.
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I don't think they are brittle. At the Classic and Marshall I like to shoot them at steel drums on the course. It makes a cool noise. I've found they are very hard to break.
That was so funny!
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Personally I've made 100's of all cains early on through the years. All cains and boo's make fine arrows. I have split a couple ends shooting jidio's. Some old stumps are hard. But your talking about 100,000 shots. So I would'nt classfie them as bridle.
Through the years I came to use only shoots that are local after our eastern woodland indians. We have no cain or boo locally here in EASTERN PANDLE OF WV. so I don't use them anymore. I can rasp shoots down a lot quicker and straighter even taper.
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A few years ago David Knight gave me some caramelized Tonkin shafts at the Classic. Some had slight bends in them but when I tried to straighten them a few broke at a node. The shafts themselves are sound and tough but straightening an already reduced node, for me at least, will break 50% of the time or greater.
I straighten and temper hill cane before I ever reduce the node and usually I will heat and roll the nodes to reduce them.