Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on January 09, 2016, 10:10:36 am
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Just finished my maple/sinew bow this morning to final draw going to shoot it for a couple of weeks then finish , What's every body's take on finishing ,stain, seal Ect not going to cover the sinew but would like to stain the maple a little darker for hunting ? But don't know what kinda seal to use for sinew ?
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I would prefer a surface sealer more so than an oil finish, directly over sinew that is. When you stain the maple you will want to tape the sinew off. It will absorb color easily and will be very dark compared to the stained wood portion, rawhide does the same.
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Pearl, by "surface sealer" are you thinking shellac? a paste wax?
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Polyurethane. Add paste wax over that if you want to, it wont hurt a thing. I'm not saying oil finishes wont work, I'm sure they do in ways. I would just prefer a hard surface finish on bare sinew.
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Can you polyurathane over true oil ?
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Sure can.
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I've always added snake skins over sinew but any good sealer should work. You can add a thin layer of TBIII over the sinew first for protection and to help with waterproofing then seal over that.
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how weather and moisture resistant would shellac with tung oil on top be?
Or shellac mixed with tung oil?
Finding a way to spray on polyurethane and then disposing of newspaper or w/e used without the danger of it spontaneously combusting seemed much more annoying than just rubbing in some tru oil. Though there's also brush on polyurethane. Tru oil isn't just an oil finish, it has varnish on it so I don't think you have to add polyurethane.
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(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/ishi%20bow/CAM01056_zps1p4iz5hf-1.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/ishi%20bow/CAM01056_zps1p4iz5hf-1.jpg.html)
Paint is an option
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When I spray polyurethane I hang from the ceiling with a fine string, then nothing to worry about throwing away.
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Nice Paint !!
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I cover sinew with snake skin like Pat does, this bow is covered with artificial snake skin with 5 coats of wipe on poly.
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(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah150/dodged645/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/A53ECD85-9B44-46E9-A50C-47DAEDA09517_zpsgiilaqvm.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/dodged645/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/A53ECD85-9B44-46E9-A50C-47DAEDA09517_zpsgiilaqvm.jpg.html)forgot to add picture
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(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah150/dodged645/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/A53ECD85-9B44-46E9-A50C-47DAEDA09517_zpsgiilaqvm.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/dodged645/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/A53ECD85-9B44-46E9-A50C-47DAEDA09517_zpsgiilaqvm.jpg.html)forgot to add picture
Until you get the bow in your hands, that fnake skin looks mighty dang real! Been playing with that a few times lately, too.
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Thin bark works well. I would think that just brown paper applied with titebond and coated well with a good sealer would be a viable option. It would probably look just like thin rawhide after soaking up the glue and sealer.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_0884.jpg)
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I tried the thin brown paper like Pat M mentioned...
it scared the hell out of me when it cracked the first time I drew the bow after the glue had dried a few days.
I won't do that again!
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PatM,
that birch bark cover is wow-beautiful
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I've never had a problem with paper backings. Just like with other backings you don't want too much glue. You do want to saturate the backing but no excess glue.