Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: ccase39 on November 03, 2015, 02:10:16 pm
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I have usually used a 9" riser for prettty much every size of bow I make. I have made my bows from 66" to 72". I am working on a 66" R/D bamboo backed Osage bow right now and It occured to me that maybe I should ask how to determine riser legnth lol. This one is going to turn out pretty. I have an accent strip of Paddock running the length of the bow and am using Paddock and Zebera handle and riser. It glued up very well with no detectable seam so I want to make sure I finish it right. Last R/D came out under weight when I finally got it tillered correctly. I will take my time this time.
Anyhow just wondering how to determine riser length.
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The riser length can depend greatly on your core thickness. I wouldn't go less than 10" myself. 4.5" grip (big hands) and the rest split between fades.
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I like between 10 and 12", I use the longer fades to shorten up the working limb, if the bow starts to take set I can always go back into the fade for some more working limb.
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I like small handles. I actually prefer working grips built up with cork but if I have to go stiff I use the customer's hand width plus three inches split between the fades. Here's an example: http://imgur.com/a/9KYzk (http://imgur.com/a/9KYzk)
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I went with 10 on this one. Thanks guys
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My non bending handles are no more than 8". Sometimes shorter depending on the stave.
Jawge
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I'm with George when it comes to my self bows, no more than 8 inches, 4 inch handle and 2 inch fades.
But while the topic is open can we talk about why most laminated bows have larger handle sections and the pros and cons of these large handle sections?
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Aries, one advantage to longer risers is more efficiency, less working limb to distort durring the power stroke. This is where the biggest loss of energy occurs.
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Aries, one advantage to longer risers is more efficiency, less working limb to distort durring the power stroke. This is where the biggest loss of energy occurs.
In a self bow is the trade off that you will have less working limb to distribute the stress of the bend?
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Exactly, it's why short bendy bows can put so much zip into an arrow.
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I like between 10 and 12", I use the longer fades to shorten up the working limb, if the bow starts to take set I can always go back into the fade for some more working limb.
Every time I do this, I have trouble matching the thickness as I remove the length from the fades and end up with a slight hinge just off the handle. :-\
Otherwise, I just adjust it to the bow. If I have plenty of length, a Perry reflex or anything else that protects the limb from strain, I might make nice long fades that start where the grip ends, maybe a 2-3" high cutout shelf, and have a total length of 12". If I'm cramped up, worried about the stave, or whatever, I might have the handle grip actually be part of the fades, and start the upper fade right above the arrow pass, ending up with as little as 6-7".