Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Primitive Skills => Topic started by: Josh B on August 31, 2015, 09:24:31 pm
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I spent the weekend in Barstow Ca and it was way to hot to work outside so I had to come up with something to do in the AC. Then I found some leather tucked away in a storage compartment in my sleeper. This find reminded me that my old mocs were shot and deer season is around the corner. I didn't have enough leather for my usual knee high plains style so I'm going with a simple two piece plains style(technically 3 piece if you count the tongue). They don't look like much yet, but I'm gaining on it. The left one is 3/4 done and fits as it should. I'll post some more pics as I go on the right one. Thanks for looking. Josh
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Josh I don't think there's anything you can't make. There looking good.
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I think I still got an outstanding ticket for exhibition driving in Barstow dating back to 1988.
Nice teepee creepers, buddy. Nothing like 'em for moving quiet is there?
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Thanks Rob. I'm sure there's a whole lot of stuff I can't do. In fact, I know there is! Lol!
Thanks JW. I need all the help I can get with stealth. I'm as graceful in the woods as a bull in a China closet. Lol!
I got the left one all fitted. Now all is left is the lace and the tongue. The tongue is a dilemma. I usually just make a short tongue, but I'm debating on making a long one that folds over the top of the moc and beading a design on it. I think I'll study on it while I stitch up the right moc. Thanks for looking! Josh
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Hehe, nice ankles there, trucker!
>:D
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Looking good Josh, should be comfy. :)
Pappy
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Oh they look great...
They are the shape of feet!!!
(Unlike most modern footware which isn't wide enough across the foot-knuckles (I just made that term up, I s'pose it must have a real name ::)) )
Del
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How long do these last before you have to replace the bottoms? I have been thinking about making some. If I'm not at work I am usually barefoot or in flip flops. I have to go pretty slow to keep the noise down when I'm in boots
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JW-that's exactly why I prefer knee high mocs! Lol!
Thanks Pappy!
Del- foot knuckles.....I like it! Lol! My "foot knuckles" are wider than most. I have to buy footwear that's EE wide. Not sure how that translates in UK shoe sizing, but suffice it to say my feet are very wide. Maybe that's why I was always such a fast swimmer in my youth. ::)
Josh- there's no simple answer to that. Too many variables such as terrain, type of leather used, how often you wear them and so on. Where I live its all dirt with some occasional soft limestone here and there. Where you live is more sand and rounded rock. That will cause more wear and tear although not as bad as volcanic and flint type Rocky soils. Wearing them on concrete and asphalt wears them the fastest. This time I'm using oil tanned leather. I usually use brain or ivory soap tanned buckskin with either rawhide and beaver tail soles or tanned but not fully broken buckskin from the neck soles. I only wear mocs in the woods while hunting and I would get 3 to 4 years out of the buckskin soles, but I had to replace the beaver tail every year. I don't hunt near as hard now so I would be surprised if I don't get ten years out of these. I hope that helps. Josh
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On a side note Josh, had I known I where I was going to go from Las Vegas, I could have hand delivered your staves instead of mailing them. I ended up loading in Long beach Monday morning. ::) That would have been much better considering it looks like the post office dropped the ball. Josh
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On a side note Josh, had I known I where I was going to go from Las Vegas, I could have hand delivered your staves instead of mailing them. I ended up loading in Long beach Monday morning. ::) That would have been much better considering it looks like the post office dropped the ball. Josh
Lol no problem Josh. I thought it was funny you got to so close before the staves did.
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My feet are just about square, I know all about the wide feet!
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That looks like some of Clyde's leather from the Classic. They look great Josh. This has my interested in making a pair for early bow season.
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Joe- it sure makes it tough to find comfortable steel toes don't it?
Clint-yep, you were with me when I bought it. If you want, I can do a build a long on the right moccasin for ya so you can see how I fit em. They are pretty simple really. The only tools involved are a pencil, a cloth tape measure(I've used a piece of string before) scissors, a couple gloving needles, and something to punch stitch holes(I'm using a hammer, nail and a scrap of board). Materials are leather obviously, art sinew, thick rawhide, and heavy paper for patterns. The rawhide insert is optional unless you have prickly pear hiding in the grass in your area. Then its mandatory! Josh
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Better put an extra layer on the left foot trucker. You'll be shifting a hole right through!
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Better put an extra layer on the left foot trucker. You'll be shifting a hole right through!
Unless he's a floater.
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Great mocs! Scary feet !
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Better put an extra layer on the left foot trucker. You'll be shifting a hole right through!
Unless he's a floater.
I'm neither now. The kenebago has an automatic! ::) Just for the record, I never was a double clutcher. Big truck trannies have been synchronized since long before I hit the road.
John- don't be making fun of my hobbit feet! Think of the money I save on water skis and snow shoes. Lol!
Thanks fellas! Josh
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Better put an extra layer on the left foot trucker. You'll be shifting a hole right through!
Unless he's a floater.
I'm neither now. The kenebago has an automatic! ::) Just for the record, I never was a double clutcher. Big truck trannies have been synchronized since long before I hit the road.
John- don't be making fun of my hobbit feet! Think of the money I save on water skis and snow shoes. Lol!
Thanks fellas! Josh
Holy crap Josh I literally laughed so hard I got a stomach cramp!
I would love to see a build along! But I would love to have something to go by to make knee high moc's!? Patrick
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Josh I like the old saying "out of sight out of mind". The before and after is remarkable as seen in the photos below.
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Hahaha hahaha! ;D :o :o :-[ :-X :laugh: :laugh: :'( :'( >:D >:D :laugh: :laugh:
Patrick
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A build-a-long would be great!
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I would enjoy a build along too Josh.
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My last job was slowly phasing out the manuals. It was way simpler to control a salter, 2 plows and drive without having to shift too!
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Good one John! Lol!
I'll be sure to show how to pattern and size the right one. If I get some more leather, I'll do a knee high style buildalong for you Patrick. My moccasins are quite simple and just functional like most of my leatherwork. I'm sure there are folks on here that make nicer moccasins than I do. I would sure like to see how they do it.
Joe-I can see the advantage of an automatic with your old job. With my job of pulling unbaffled tankers, the automatic isn't so practical. Everytime the liquid hits the back of the trailer and pulls down the engine, the transmission tries to drop a couple gears to compensate. Then the liquid comes racing back forward and hits the front of the tank so hard it feels like a 45,000 lb slide hammer! I miss my 18 speed. Josh
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We also applied salt brine to roads prior to storms. We made sprayers for trucks with 1600 gallon tanks. We used "baffle balls" to stop the surge. In a 1600 gallon tank they only displaced 10 gallons. Perhaps something to look into.
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Thanks Josh, you don't have to do that just for me. I've just always wanted a pair. Would like to hint in them to. Have you ever tried elephant for the soles? That stuff is tougher than nails. I get it at springfield leather here in springfield MO. If your ever through here holler at me. I would love to meet up and go to the leather shop anytime. I always tell my buddy I could go broke just to go buy a couple of pieces out of their scrap bin. I would leave with a truck load! Patrick
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Joe...I appreciate the suggestion. Unfortunately the reason we pull unbaffled tanks is so that we can be absolutely sure that every vestige of prior product is cleaned from the tank in order to prevent contamination with the next product to be loaded. Baffles of any sort make absolute sanitation impossible. I just do like Johnny Cash sang and get a rhythm! You get a feel for the surge after awhile and learn how to use the throttle to calm it down. Unfortunately the automatic tranny only operates reactively as opposed to proactively which makes that difficult.
Patrick...I've never used elephant hide. That ought to be tough stuff. I may take you up on the offer to go to the leathershop some day. There's not one anywhere near where I live. Although that's probably a good thing. Lol!
Thanks again fellas! I'll get back on this project next week. Josh
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Joe...I appreciate the suggestion. Unfortunately the reason we pull unbaffled tanks is so that we can be absolutely sure that every vestige of prior product is cleaned from the tank in order to prevent contamination with the next product to be loaded. Baffles of any sort make absolute sanitation impossible. I just do like Johnny Cash sang and get a rhythm! You get a feel for the surge after awhile and learn how to use the throttle to calm it down. Unfortunately the automatic tranny only operates reactively as opposed to proactively which makes that difficult.
Patrick...I've never used elephant hide. That ought to be tough stuff. I may take you up on the offer to go to the leathershop some day. There's not one anywhere near where I live. Although that's probably a good thing. Lol!
Thanks again fellas! I'll get back on this project next week. Josh
No problem Josh, just let me know when you are in town and if they are open that day we will do just that! Patrick
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Some products we used had to be transported unbaffled as well. Asphalt products develop "Scum Cap" that clogs the pups.
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I know that I said that i would get back on this project and I will. There's just been a bit of a delay due to another kenebago breakdown. I didn't want to sit in the truck and work on projects with no AC when it was near 100 degrees most of the day. I promise I'll get the build along going soon. Josh
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excuses. excuses.
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Come on Mike give ol Josh a break... ;)
At least he remembered the build along..... :) ;)
DBar
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Lol! Bill does have a point about my memory.
Alright...I don't have a lot of time, but I can at least get started on the patterns.
First step, decide if you're going to wear socks in your mocs. If so, be sure to be wearing them as you make your patterns. It do make a difference! As you can tell by the pics, I clearly do not intend to wear socks in my mocs, so no socks while making the patterns.
For the pattern process you need paper/cardboard, a pencil, scissors, a string and your feet.
Lay your paper/cardboard on the floor, place your foot on it so there is an inch or two of material all the way around your foot and trace around your foot with a pencil. Now remove your foot from the paper and kinda round out 1/4" to 3/8" around your outline and leave an inch by inch tab sticking off the heel. It's not an exact process, close is good enough. Now cut the tracing out, lay it on the floor and place your foot on it. If you done good, you should have about a 1/4" of paper sticking out all the way around your foot+ the 1 inch tab sticking off the heel. If it looks good , Mark it left or right according to which ever foot you just traced and you now have the pattern for the sole of that moccasin. My feet are close enough in size that I can use the same pattern for both feet.(I have to flip the pattern over obviously) most people are not so fortunate. Your first attempt you should definitely pattern both feet....just in case. Josh
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Ok...moving on. Now that we have the sole pattern cut out, we are going to use that to make the upper pattern. We now need a sheet of paper/cardboard at least 3" longer than the sole pattern and 10" wider. Center the sole pattern L and R, about 3/4" from the top of the paper. Now we trace the sole pattern on to the upper pattern. Next you take the sole pattern off the upper pattern and place your foot in the outline that you just drew. This is where the all important string comes in. At the highest point of your foot(where the top of your foot meets the ankle) lay a string over that point and pull it snug (not tight) and Mark where the ends touch the paper on both sides of your foot. Make sure you Mark the pattern and the length of the string. Just to be clear, you need the length of the string that goes from the pattern, over your foot and touches the paper again. Add 1/2" to that length of string and cut it there. Now take your foot off the pattern and eyeball half way between the marks you made where the string touched the pattern and make a mark. Now fold your string in half and stretch it from the center Mark straight off to the side and make a mark and then do the same thing on the other side.
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Ok...this is where things get sketchy and hard to explain. If I haven't confused you yet, I'm about to. Starting about 3/4" above the toe, draw a line around the front of the toe. Be sure to space it about 3/4" away from the sole tracing across the front of the toes. Once you turn down along the side of the foot, you will increase the space in between the line you're drawing and the sole tracing. You will increase the width until the line you're drawing intersects the mark you made with the string. You then keep drawing the line so that that pattern is steadily getting wider until you reach a point a couple inches past the heel of the sole tracing. Do this on both sides of the sole, making sure you intersect the string measurement mark to either side. This is a terrible explanation, but if you try to mimick the basic shape I drew it will come out pretty good.
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I'll stop here for now so that I can answer any questions ya'll might have before I get to far along. (Plus I need to get back to work) Thanks for following along! Josh
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Thanks a bunch for doing this Josh! I will definitely be making me some! Stay safe out there! Patrick
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As usual, your build-along is well worded and documented w/ pics. Lookin' forward to more!
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Thanks fellas! Due to my dispatcher having a brain fart, I unexpectedly find myself with a little time to continue with this project. ::) So here we go. I went ahead and cut out the two main pieces of the moccasin last night. This is pretty straight forward. Lay your pattern on the leather in a manner that will result in the least amount of waste, trace around the patterns with a PENCIL. Do not use an ink pen! Then cut out your pieces. IMPORTANT!!!!! Pay particular close attention to what side of the leather you trace each pattern. Wether you are using braintan or commercial leather you will want the outside of the skin to be the outside of the moccasin. Really think about what you're doing before you cut! Another tip, this is especially applicable if your using braintan or hides with varying thicknesses. The back of the neck is usually the heaviest and thickest part of the hide. If possible, use this for the soles of your moccasins. For the upper portion, you'll want to use a section of leather with as uniform thickness as you can. It does matter. If your upper has a thin side on one side and a thick side on the other, the thin side will do all the stretching while the thickside doesn't. You will find your moccasin trying to twist around your foot in short order. No good that!
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Ok...next step. This is entirely optional but worth the extra effort. I like to sew in a welt to strengthen the seam, but you can just so the two pieces together at this point. The welt is nothing more than a 1/4" wide strip of leather that is long enough to go all the way around the seam. In this case @ 26", but I cut it a little longer to give my self room for error.
Now comes the tedious part. The sewing. I'm using a double strand of 70# artificial sinew and a glovers needle in a simple whip stitch to attach the sole to the upper. I use a small nail, hammer and block of wood to punch the stitch holes....yes every single hole. My methods are crude...but inefficient. ::) Alrighty then! We're going to sew it inside out, all the way around EXCEPT the portion where we added the tab to the sole. So center the sole at the tip of the upper w/ the welt in place and punch the first stitch hole. Start our stitch, punch next hole about 3/16" away and stitch. Repeat all the way down to the sole tab and tie off. Go back to the toe and work down the other side. Placing the stitch is important, not just from stitch to stitch but from the edge of the leather. Too close to the edge and the stitch tears out, to far from the edge and you end up with a bulky seam rubbing your foot raw. Don't get in a hurry. General rule of thumb when your threading your needle is you will need 3 times the length of the seam in thread. In other words, if your sewing a 10" long seam, have at least 30" of thread on your needle when you start.
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And we're off like a herd of turtles! Once I get the sole mostly sewn on, I'll show you the next step. Thanks for following along! Josh
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On with the show! In the first pic you can see that I have sewn from the center of the toes along one side to the heel. The second pic is a sneak peak at the seam from the other side. It looks nice and tight so I move on to the other side. Again, starting at the same point of the toe and sewing down the other side. The leather will become a bit resistant to lining up properly since you're now forcing it to take a 3 dimensional shape. Be patient, it will get easier once you get around the toe. Third pic shows that I've nearly gotten the entire sole sewn on. You don't want to sew it up completely because there is some fitting left to do. And a side shot of what your moccasin should be looking like at this point. If you stand on your head, cover one eye, close the other and use some imagination, you can almost see that this is intended to be some sort of foot wear. It does get better soon. Trust me! >:D
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Next step is to pinch the back of the upper together and find the centerline of the upper. Once you establish the centerline, your going to make a cut down that centerline to a point a couple inches short of where the moccasin will contact the top of the foot at the the juncture of your foot and ankle. You will extend this cut once you get the moccasin right side out, but be careful not to cut too far at this step. Once you make the cut, you can proceed to turning the moccasin right side out. It won't be easy! The toe area is going to give you some serious fits, just be patient. It will eventually let you straighten it all out. Whatever you do, do not grab a set of pliers and try to yank it all out. If you do, you will regret it. I have a rounded off 1/2" dowel that I use to gently coax the stubborn parts straight. That is all you'll need. Once you get that fight won, you will do your first trial fit. Slide it on your foot. If you didn't get carried away on your top cut, your foot will stop short of sliding all the way in. If so, take it back off and extend the cut a little more until your toes just barely brush the front seam of the moccasin. From the end of that cut make about a 2" cut off too each side as illustrated in the pics. If all has went according to plan thus far, your moccasin should be as snug as a sock, not tight, not loose ....just comfortably snug. More to come later! Josh
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Looking good Josh!
Patrick
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Thanks Patrick! I should have a little time this evening to work on em. I still haven't made up my mind as to wether or not I want to do some minor beadwork on them. I'm almost to the point where I have to decide. Josh
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Thats cool! Beadwork would be pretty neat. Have you ever done any knee high moc's?
Patrick
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If your asking if I've ever beaded any knee high mocs, then no. I have made them and prefer them. In fact the moccasins I'm making now are easily made into front lace knee highs. If I had enough leather, that's exactly what I would be making right now. Since I've managed to work myself out of a job again today, I'm going to get my stuff out and resume the build along. I'll be back in a bit. Josh
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Alrighty then. On to the final fitting. Slide your foot in until your toes are just barely touching the seam in the front. Now pinch the leather together at the top(I use a clothespin to hold it and then pinch it together ashe back of your heel. Now draw a line with a pencil up both sides. Once you have the line drawn ADD 1/2" of leather behind that line and cut off the excess. Be sure you add the half inch! I just forgot that step and completely ruined this moccasin. Since I don't have enough leather to start over, build along is over. Sorry folks. Hey! Bartender....double on the rocks down here and keep em comin! $%¥€<<#*¥¥¥!!!!! Josh
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Aw man! I was following along with this even though I haven't posted. Can't you salvage it by running a strip up the back using one of the bits you cut off? It won't be what you originally intended, but it might still work as a wearable moccasin.
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Yeah...yeah I can. I've already started on it. It means a couple extra hours of sewing and it will look like crap, but on the other hand, since I certainly won't be beading them now I probably saved my self 10 hrs. of work. I guess the deer won't care anyway. Josh
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Also, I know that the goal is to be primitive here, but a pricking iron would save you an insane amount of time. You could probably rig one up out of a few nails pounded through a small board so you could at least get a few holes done at a time...Also have you ever tried using a stitching horse/pony? I wound up making one so I could learn to saddle stitch properly, it is incredibly handy to have that extra "hand" to pinch the leather together while you stitch.
Don't mind me and my suggestions by the way, just lobbing out ideas because I like what you're doing and am getting my nose into it. ;)
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I appreciate all your suggestions and input! I wish more folks were chiming in. I can only speak for myself on this, but these build alongs take quite a bit of time and effort. When I do one, it usually takes 3 times as long to complete a project than it would if I did the project without stopping to photograph every step and then post the pic with some sort of coherent explanation of each and every step. I enjoy doing it if i think I'm actually helping someone, but with no input along the way I can't help but wonder if I'm wasting my time. So by all means make suggestions, ask questions, even offering up constructive criticism is welcome.
As to your suggestions, I have been wanting to make myself a pricking iron for awhile. I would imagine it would not only speed up the process, but drastically improve the spacing of my stitching. I'm afraid I don't know what a stitching horse is though. I'll have to look that one up. Most of the time I'm working on stuff out on the road, so I'm pretty limited on what I can carry in the truck with me. I do appreciate your comments, keep em coming! Josh
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Too bad ya can't put beading where the sew line is.
I've used a fork to create multiple stitching holes. But there's real limit to # of leather layers.
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I'll get me some more leather and make another pair. Hopefully I won't screw them up so bad that there not worth beading either. ::) My uncles are out chasing elk in Wyoming, maybe they'll remember to save me a hide this year. If so, I'll do a knee high moccasin build along. After I tan the hide of course. Thanks for following along. Josh
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Here's a stitching pony Tandy leather sells: http://d31snyb1jsf9xb.cloudfront.net/services/image.aspx/media/images-product/Pro-Lacing-Stitching-Pony-3133-00.jpg I've seen them with the upright part in the center so you can sit on a chair and have both legs over the top of horizontal bar. Puts your piece at eye level and pinches it in place. There's more simple versions too http://www.fineleatherworking.com/image/cache/data/tools/sewing-clam-01-960x906.jpg that one is known as a stitching clam, it's held between your legs or in a vice to keep it closed around the piece you're working on. That one might be your best bet since it's both simple and doesn't take up much space (although with the stitching pony you can unbolt it so then you just have two flat pieces to stash)
I know what you mean, I've done a few tutorials and the stopping to take pictures at key points, download them, edit them and to write things out takes way more energy and time than just banging it out.
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Yep, it's official....I'm an idiot! I have a stitching horse in my shop. I always wondered what it was for. Lol! I inherited it from my father in law. Its in pretty good shape. All the joints are good and tight and the clamps mesh up perfectly. The only thing it needs is the leather strap that goes down to the foot bar. Well if nothing else, you've answered a ten yr old question for me! Thanks! Josh
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Hahaha, glad I helped solve that mystery for you!
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That's one good thing that came out of this project anyway. I'll get back on this next week. It may look terrible, but at least those of you that are following along will know how to finish the job and not have to wait for me to get more leather for the rest of the story. Patrick, I still plan on making me some knee high mocs in the not so distant future. I'll do a build along when that happens. Josh
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Good build along Doc, not sure I have the patience or skill to tackle the leather work required to make myself a pair but it sure is an interesting project to watch and your explaining and showing the steps well.
One full page of pics won't show up on my computer for some reason but I could still follow what you were doing through your script and visualize the steps as you explained each. Hey, maybe I could learn this cobbling after all. :)
Keep posting as time allows, I want to see the whole process and the finished project.
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Just went back to page 3 and the pics are now showing up for me, cool.
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Thanks Josh, I'll definitely be looking for the knee high moc build along. I'll have me a pair of those one of these days! Thanks again for taking the time to do this build. I know how much time it takes to do one.
Patrick
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You make it look so easy Josh, looking good so far. ;)
Pappy
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Thanks fellas! Obviously I didn't get back on this project as soon as I had hoped. My anniversary is this weekend so I won't be working on them this weekend either. I will get back on it soon though. Thanks for following along! Josh
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You better get on them, the weather is getting cold and hate to see you running around without shoes. ;) :)
Pappy
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Happy anniversary to you and yours Josh! Hope you two have a great weekend. Patrick
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Happy anniversary Josh and Mrs. Gun Doc. 8)
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Thanks fellas! We will certainly try to celebrate in style! Josh
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I finally got a little time to work on this project. I got the extensions sewn on where I screwed up. I suspected that the extra stiffness from the repair was going to cause problems and it did. Not only is the extra stitching an eye sore, but it made it very difficult to form the moccasin to the back of the heel. I eventually got it to fit comfortably but it looks terrible. The next step is the tongue and laces. I first stitched the sole the rest of the way back to the tab. I then made a welt and stitched up the back of the moccasin. This is where the difficulties began. Normally, the leather is easy to shape into the heel cup with the stitches that attach the tab to the upper portion. That was not the case with this one. It fought me for an hour and still didn't shape up. When I get some more leather I'll make a proper pair. Thanks for following along so far. I'll show how I lace these and make the tongues when i get more time. Josh
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The next step is the tongues. The tongues I'm making are a lot longer than is actually needed. All you really need is for the tongue to be long enough to keep the lace in the front from cutting into your ankle. Feel free to exercise your artistic license for this part. First I cut out the tongue to the shape I want and then I put a temporary stitch at each corner to hold it in place while I prick all the stitch holes. The tongue will overlap about 3/8" to 1/2". Just enough to make sure you have plenty of leather to stitch. I then prick all my stitch holes. Once that's done, I remove the temporary stitch at the corner where I intend to start the stitch. It's a good idea to cut out both tongues before you sew one on so you can make them match fairly close.
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Now I'm going to try and explain the lock stitch i use for this. First I pull off a very long length of artificial sinew. Artificial sinew is cheap so don't get stingy. It's far better to waste some than to come up short half through a series of stitches. I use two glovers needles for this type of stitch. I thread both needles onto this thread and tie it off so I have a loop with two needles. The knot is the positioned so that when I pull the loop tight with a needle at each end, one needle is twice as far from the knot as the other needle or in other words the knot is one third the length of the loop from one of the needles. Be sure to double knot the artificial sinew as it's slick and doesn't hold a knot well. Now remove one of your temporary stitches and starting at that hole and from the inside, push the needle with the longest part of the thread through until the knot stops it from going further. Now run the needle into the next hole and pull the thread back in until it pulls tight. The short piece of thread doesn't ever get poked through the seam. The long thread loops around the short thread and the needle is pushed back through the same hole that it you just pushed it into. When pulled tight, the stitch will be nice and secure. Then move to the next hole, push the needle through to the inside, loop around the short string inside, and back out the same hole. Pull both threads tight and repeat. Terrible explanation I know, but it's the best I can do. Once you get to last hole, run the needle in to the inside and tie it off to the inside thread. Be sure to double knot.
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Some moc pics of stitching the tongue on. Tip, if you want cleaner looking stitches, twist your thread up until it is round and tight like heavy thread.
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Now that we have th tongue stitched on, its time for the laces. This is pretty quick and easy. Basically I punch two pair of holes on each side. Each pair of holes is about 3/4" apart from each other about a 3/4" down from the top edge. Pics explain it better than words. Run your laces through as the pic shows and if you did a long decorative tongue as I have fold it over and figure out where to punch two holes in it. If you went with a short tongue, you don't punch holes in it.
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With the lacing done, all that is left is the insoles. I don't have any rawhide with me so that will have to wait until I get home. Since I thoroughly messed up the right moccasin I went with simple fringed tongues as opposed to beadwork. They fit great and I put a couple miles on them at cahokia mounds this afternoon and my feet feel great, but it still irritates me to no end that I messed up. The deer probably won't mind, but I sure do! Anyway....that pretty much concludes the build along. Remember....the old adage of measure twice, cut once doesn't just apply to carpentry. Thanks for following along! Josh
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They look great from here, nice job!
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Thank you kindly! Josh
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Those look amazing
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Really liked the build-along. Mocs look great, I'm planning on getting a kit this Winter and making up a pair of Eastern Center-seam Mocs. Bob
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Thanks John!
Thanks Bob! Be sure to post them when you get em done! Josh
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Those look great Josh. Hope the swelling goes down in that right foot.
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V cool... do you have them in size 9 O:) ;)
Del
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Lol! Thanks Clint!
Del...I do not have them in size 9. However, all you have to do is make it back to the classic and I will be more than happy to custom make you a pair to take home with you. >:D Josh
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Love um, got them done just in time before cold weather set in. :)
Pappy
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Thanks Pappy! Yep, I got em done just in the Nick of time. My scouting party(kids) are reporting a lot of deer movement across the creek. If all goes well I should start hunting this coming weekend. Josh
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Man Josh those look great! I think I figured out from your pictures, how to make them knee highs. I can't wait to start on mine!i just picked up a whole side on clearance of buckskin tand cow hide for 20 bucks and enough thick bison for the soles. I got two knife sheaths to make for customers then hopefully my moc's! Thanks for the build along buddy!
Patrick
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Thanks Patrick! It was my pleasure....well except that little whoops I made :-[ . I look forward to how yours come out. $20? Wow! Now that's a bargain! Josh
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Thanks Patrick! It was my pleasure....well except that little whoops I made :-[ . I look forward to how yours come out. $20? Wow! Now that's a bargain! Josh
Thanks bud. Yeah springfield leather has a clearance table. Sometimes you will find some cool stuff! Sometimes it's just weird stuff! Lol
You can pick up a whole role of leather for 20 bucks though. Most of the time it's not super high quality but for the things I like messing with its pretty cool. And it fits my cheap budget as well. I also got a few kid skins for 6 bucks each and a couple hair on kid skins for 10 each. I'm going back to get a couple of pig skins for 10 each tomorrow. If you want I could pick you up a role of that buckskin tand cow hide if they still have some?
Patrick
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For $20!? Hell yes! Let me know if you get some. I'll cover it and make it worth your while. Josh
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Cool, I'll let you know as soon as I can get it! Patrick