Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: snowplow on August 31, 2015, 04:09:52 pm
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Hi guys, I have some yew logs. I have read that I should only split them, and that I should for sure bandsaw them.
Can someone break this down for me a little better? It seems that splitting would be much greater risk of ruining a stave.
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If you want to guarantee two good halves then saw it, if you want to risk it then go for splitting it and hope there's no helicopter twist in it - my last stave split nicely - but starting the split in the centre really improves your chances - do NOT start cleaving at the end of the stave!
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How big are the logs?
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The largest is about 8" by about 8' nice and straight. Then they go on to about 2". I'm no expert on this stuff but I have never seen any this straight.
Thanks for the help!
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Every sawn yew stave I've ever used except one has had grain problems where my draw knife would split across the grain and ruin the stave.
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When I see the logs from guys that insist on sawing only and they can't understand why any body else wouldn't always saw instead of split, I can understand why... the logs have a straight trunk, and are straight grained. In other words they usually have access to very good quality stuff and don't even cut the logs that won't co operate.
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I've only done a few but I just don't feel right unless I have one split face so I know how the grain runs. My bandsaw has a small table so once I have a split face I can run it through bandsaw and follow the grain quite nicely. If there is any twist I've found it easy to steam out once I've roughed out the bow.
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I cut lots of yew, and I cry a little every time I think about all the wood I've ruined from trying to split a log. I now always saw yew trying to get the most out of every log. Even here in yew country, nice yew is rare and tough to find.
Yew bark is real easy to read, and I'd never cut anything twisted or gnarly anyways. If the bark looks nice and straight, saw away. 8" is a huge log, please post a pic! Where do you live?
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What do you look for in the bark to see twist? I've never been able to see the difference.
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Im talking about the stuff thats real obvious. Sometimes yew gets big ridges or valleys that run up a tree and if it cork screws I leave her be.
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I tend to saw.
When working a sawn stave, if you are careful with your drawknife you will still feel where the grain is running and revert to a rasp where necessary. This applies to any stave wether it's been split or sawn, there will always be areas where there are dips and swirls in the grain that won't take an edged tool.
IMO Yew can take a fair bit of grain run off, so laying a straight bow out on a slightly wavy stave is OK.
We've all ruined logs and staves, but I'd say sawing gives the best return.
Del
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Thanks for the info guys. Sounds 6 of one and half dozen of the other. So I guess here's the next question, do I dare try to split or saw myself or is this a mandatory job to do with an experienced guy?
Wizardgoat, I am not too far south of you. Seattleish.
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if you're sawing on a band-saw then make sure you have some form of out-feed table as trying to control heavy timbers immediately as they separate at the end of the cut is difficult - they try to kick up as they fall away at the same time as they pull outwards which can drag you into the saw-blade.
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I have access to a band saw and we always have one guy feeding it and one guy receiving it.
Snap a chalk line and saw it up. Call up local wood shops, they'll charge you shop rate to saw the log.
Doesn't take long and is worth it. oh ya how old is this log?
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Don't let the log out of your sight, else some "helpful" idiot is liable to saw off all the sapwood for you ::)
Del
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yep, or saw it in half like for firewood, or thinking you amateur furniture-makers always get it all wrong because that is not the most cost-effective way of planking and sorting it out for you........I ended up losing a large quantity of yellow pine cos the sawyer thought I'd drawn all the lines on in the wrong place and cut it the way he thought I would have wanted it cut if only I knew what I was doing :'( - my lines were correct and I did know what I was doing, it was him that didn't know what I was doing - end of rant. Lesson, draw clear lines and make sure the sawyer understands what you want and why you want it done that way and never let them try and be helpful - furniture makers are not bowyers.
Having said all that, as long as everyone is clear about what is needed and why, I always out-source my heavy sawing, and the joiner I (now) use is brilliant, usually doing the work for free :D
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Where is Jim Fetrow when you need him. I have built a couple of yew bows so take this with a grain of salt. I would at least split that big log in half . The grain does not lie. At that point saw a section off each split side. I would stay away form a saw mill of any kind. That's what I do with osage . I usualy split it all into staves and then trim along the natural grain split. Then there is the knots ! Well sometimes that can create its on can of worms. I tend to agree with DC. Arvin
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Just my 2c to add here - I would always split. Especially a big log like 8".
Sawing is fine if you've got big enough equipment, some help and and confidence to run it through straight. Splitting a big log should take about 15mins on your own, is as primitive as it gets (and sounds amazing when it starts to split!)
Just pick your line, try and get any knots / flaws running along one split line, and away you go. You won't come across any nasty surprises hiding in the wood with split staves, as it will always follow the grain, showing you exactly what you've got.
I recently split two 12" English yew logs, and it took me less than an hour to do the whole lot - I also ended up with these 10 perfect staves, even though one of the logs was slightly curved.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Will_Sherman/11401171_10153307104586427_7731156971279573109_n_zpsotovui4b.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Will_Sherman/media/11401171_10153307104586427_7731156971279573109_n_zpsotovui4b.jpg.html)
You can force a split if you're careful, and keep rolling the log over. If it starts to wander somewhere you don't want it to go, just flip the log, put an axe straight into the log where you want the run to go, and carry on.
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Thanks for the awesome advice guys. Especially about forcing the split. I have done that before but wouldnt have thought to do that here. I'll have to count how old this thing is. I keep forgetting.
Whats up with splitting from the end vs the middle?
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I think it depends whether there are any specific problems you're trying to avoid. I usually split from the end (small or big, doesn't make a difference to me) unless there's a knot or something that I want to make sure I go through the middle of. In that case, I'll put an axe straight through the knot and hammer it down to start a split through it, then go to one end and split as normal, making sure I force the split towards the middle one.
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Got it. What do you use to split with? Steel wedge? Fro?
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Some old axes, steel and wooden wedges, drawknife, whatever I've got to hand, really.
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I have three wedges a old ax blade and an ax. But if you have one wedge and a ax you can drive in with a sledge or 2# better . you can cut other wedges from a board. Old Indian trick use antler! Arvin
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Just counted the rings last night. My largest piece is just shy of 10' long, 6.5-7" dia, straight, and 64 years old.
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Willis those are some nice yew staves. I'd still saw some of those in half, I've been known to saw a 2.5" yew stave for 2 bows more than once
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You've not seen the other side ;)
I'd split a 2.5" log for 2 bows, but the ones I left wide are knotty or have sapwood damage so there was only one bow per stave.
I had another log from the same tree (cut from a yew that had been growing since the 1500s!) which also yielded 5 staves.