Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bubbles on August 27, 2015, 04:39:47 pm
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First Molly - In the process of shooting in before I dress it up. Have put a couple dozen arrows through it so far. Sitting at 56#@25". My draw is around 25-26" and it's Shooting pretty good right now.
I know I have some lever thinning to do - What are some specs for lever dimensions from you Molly guys?
This had a big drying check and a bunch of smaller checks which runs off the side of the bottom limb. I filled it with warmed epoxy and it's holding really solid. I'll give a thread/superglue wrap when I'm confident the tiller has settled. Let me know what you think!
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.10.18_zps27yihyxm.png) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.10.18_zps27yihyxm.png.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.07.48_zpsx0tqptxo.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.07.48_zpsx0tqptxo.jpg.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Mollegabet/fec00f33-06c9-40aa-b988-9d6f5bfa8cdb_zpskyo2i1vi.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Mollegabet/fec00f33-06c9-40aa-b988-9d6f5bfa8cdb_zpskyo2i1vi.jpg.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.05.49_zpsdkwzlkya.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Mollegabet/2015-08-27%2016.05.49_zpsdkwzlkya.jpg.html)
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Tiller looks good to me... mind I've only made one Molle' ::)
I asked the same Q on levers... I think thin as you dare :o, just take 'em down a whisker at a time and quit at the first sign of flex (or go back a tad ;) )
I went for a slightly triangular section, wider on the back, slightly concave sides, narrow on the belly... I was trying for a flight bow.
What is the wood?
Del
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That looks awesome, nice bend!
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Thanks Del, and I forgot - American Elm.
Thanks Wizard!
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Really nice tiller
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Yep nice tiller.
Your thickness on the levers only needs to be a fraction like 1/16th to an 1/8th thicker than the end of your working limb. Then taper them back into the nock, I see a lot of these where the levers get thicker then are left than thickness out to the tips. Stress is decreasing as you get to the tips so the lever itself can taper quite dramatically without bending. I make mine a triangular cross section but with the point of the triangle along the back. If it's not bending it doesn't need excessive tension strength of a full width lever. You can also scoop out the sides of the triangle for further weight reduction. I like playing with things like this ::)
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Nice tiller on that Molly.
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Looks very good to me. Nice job. :)
Pappy
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... I make mine a triangular cross section but with the point of the triangle along the back. If it's not bending it doesn't need excessive tension strength of a full width lever. You can also scoop out the sides of the triangle for further weight reduction. I like playing with things like this ::)
Yeah, I'd toyed with that layout... less wind resistance ;) but I went thin at the belly so it blends in with the V of the string loop.
I may rework the bow, or try your way round on the next (it's somewhere on my list of bows to make....)
The scooped sides look great, very sculptural.
Del
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Looks good.
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Great bend
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Thanks guys! I'm slowly working down the levers bit by bit as I'm shooting it in. I'm really happy with this one so far.
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No more advice needed from me..but good looking bend. Did ya heat treat it?
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Good looking Molly--wished mine turned out so well!
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Yeah, one heat treatment where I added a few inches of reflex. Then I added the warmed epoxy to the check.
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Nice looking bow. Now I know what a Molly is . I called that a holmagard. I can't spell that word either. Arvin
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Thanks for all the kind words guys!
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I asked the same Q on levers... I think thin as you dare :o, just take 'em down a whisker at a time and quit at the first sign of flex (or go back a tad ;) )
I went for a slightly triangular section, wider on the back, slightly concave sides, narrow on the belly...
Del
This is correct. the idea is to reduce weight while not having them bend excessively, or be laterally unstable. A triangle, Gothic arch, or diamond cross section is my usual result, but round or square is fine, too.
I don't remember the exact numbers, but once on another site I asked a Q? and got a great answer. Imagine a bar or board 2 cm square. It will have "x" stiffness, and strength. A round cross section of a 2" diameter will be something like 96% as stiff and strong. A round, hollow section, like a tube will be 92% as strong and stiff. A triangle cross section of the same length of side will be 87% as strong, etc...........angle iron will be blah blah, blah, channel iron will be...... I don't have the correct numbers handy, but as you can see, the triangle section will be like 38% lighter, but will only 13% weaker...
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Good info springbuck