Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dylanholderman on August 21, 2015, 07:17:30 pm
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osage this time and look at that stave >:D
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/307179F8-BDBB-41D2-9B52-DF4222DE1A2A.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/307179F8-BDBB-41D2-9B52-DF4222DE1A2A.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/56A38837-2819-49B6-8C3E-BCF3594DFF07.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/56A38837-2819-49B6-8C3E-BCF3594DFF07.jpg.html)
she has a interesting wobble with some twist in it, a few small pin knots and a side bend that shouldn't be too hard to fix.
aside from straightening that side bend i'm thinking the only other heat bending i will do is flip the tips forward some more.
thoughts?
also the stave is 2in wide down its whole 58in length any design suggestions?
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Take my words with a grain of salt because I've never had a mulberry stave. But I've heard this mulberry tends to have wide rings. So that being said if it's Osage, a blind man can chase a ring on that stave.
What is your draw length and weight you want to hit? Do you want a stiff handle on a bendy? That is a nice stave. I personally would do a bendy with the handle section being a little on the stiff side. But my draw length is 27in. Now I do have a bow that I hunt with that is 57 ntn with a stiff handle but it's a flat bow design with a little reflex. It's also a character bow from a 75 year old Osage fence post. What I'm getting at is you can make what ever you want to a point. It's all in the design and tiller. Patrick
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Sounds good to me looks like the wood is already offering itself to be a RD design.
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Take my words with a grain of salt because I've never had a mulberry stave. But I've heard this mulberry tends to have wide rings. So that being said if it's Osage, a blind man can chase a ring on that stave.
What is your draw length and weight you want to hit? Do you want a stiff handle on a bendy? That is a nice stave. I personally would do a bendy with the handle section being a little on the stiff side. But my draw length is 27in. Now I do have a bow that I hunt with that is 57 ntn with a stiff handle but it's a flat bow design with a little reflex. It's also a character bow from a 75 year old Osage fence post. What I'm getting at is you can make what ever you want to a point. It's all in the design and tiller. Patrick
thanks i know for sure that its osage not mulberry ;D (i have both woods in my garage and the tree this came off of was massive)
bendy handles are the norm for me, that said if i let this one flex in the handle it will be just a tiny bit i dont want to over do it with the deflex already present.
goal is 27-28in draw and mid 50s to 60s in weight but that shouldn't be to hard, most of the time i come in over weight not under lol
Sounds good to me looks like the wood is already offering itself to be a RD design.
yeah thats what i thought after i had my ring chased, this wasn't the original plan but when a stave is saying so clearly what it wants to be how can you refuse it O:)
another thought i had after posting was to splice in some static recurves ???
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What is the length of the stave?
I would bring the stave to floor tiller stage then try to even out the overall shape with heat on a caul. You can even out the side profile and straighten the back profile at the same time using heat and a caul.
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got some more work done on this stave. sawed off the main chunk and narrowed it down.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/22ADE4DE-433A-48FE-A996-314A60F4B21B.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/22ADE4DE-433A-48FE-A996-314A60F4B21B.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/45156731-8C77-4448-B274-3346A12D8019.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/45156731-8C77-4448-B274-3346A12D8019.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/48EE28E9-0BA6-4A05-87BF-804BE3F8D346.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/48EE28E9-0BA6-4A05-87BF-804BE3F8D346.jpg.html)
What is the length of the stave?
I would bring the stave to floor tiller stage then try to even out the overall shape with heat on a caul. You can even out the side profile and straighten the back profile at the same time using heat and a caul.
thanks pat :) the stave is 58 inches long. do you have a link to a good build along for a R/D caul? i don't know where to even begin building one :-X
P.S. the red line on the leftover stave is the growth ring i would have to chase to get a second bow out of it, is that worth doing? or can i get away with backing it with bamboo or the like ???
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Here is a link to my deflex/reflex build along. I made my trade bow on this caul this year, and it turned out absolutely awesome! Patrick
https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,48775.0.html
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that's perfect thanks ;D
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I use a 2x4 and set blocks and wedges between it ant the bow where I want it to bend. Round the corners of the blocs and wedges so they dont dig into the back.
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(http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/rocketernally/20150901_200344_zpsajrud484.jpg) (http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/rocketernally/media/20150901_200344_zpsajrud484.jpg.html)
Example. This can be done easy on a straight board with no curve cut in.
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Got some work done on this :D and a problem :(
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/726F8D11-EBCC-4278-A017-AE26DBEA6BC3.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/726F8D11-EBCC-4278-A017-AE26DBEA6BC3.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/78F46438-BB50-4245-B1FB-65F131E09BDD.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/78F46438-BB50-4245-B1FB-65F131E09BDD.jpg.html)
Here's the problem. I had this crack open up on the belly when heat bending the stave, I put some CA glue in it as soon as it was clamped down along with all the other cracks(miner) that opened up. He crack is right at the character bend in the upper limb.
Thought I would ask before I get to attached to it, is it a lost cause, should completely ignore it, or patch it somehow ???
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/BDE5842C-B151-42A4-B0AC-D3DDC2073DEB.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/BDE5842C-B151-42A4-B0AC-D3DDC2073DEB.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/3EE9F778-B318-4312-B484-879830A793C8.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/3EE9F778-B318-4312-B484-879830A793C8.jpg.html)
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Sorry to say that looks bad
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Sorry looks like a goner.maybe try the localized steam method next time for those trouble spots.shouldn't take much more pressure than the weight of your arm to feel it being to bend.not saying you forced it but I know I. Have in the past with simular results.looks like you have enough meat on that off cut too chase a ring and have another go.good luck!
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Ok I didn't ignore you guys honest O:) but I couldn't bring myself to trash it without trying first. So with that in mind I started tillering waiting to see how it would break, and lo behold she got pretty far along. That crack I was worried about is pretty much gone now and I have shot it some, but I would like some tiller critique before I do to much more it's already pretty light weight(30-35)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/571D6171-CD0B-42A0-8605-6B2D950BEFDA.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/571D6171-CD0B-42A0-8605-6B2D950BEFDA.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/0202CEE3-5C50-4E6E-8AD0-B19559B235C9.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/0202CEE3-5C50-4E6E-8AD0-B19559B235C9.jpg.html)
Drawn to 26in here.
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It looks pretty good, but I think the right limb could bend a little more mid limb. Looks like your fades are a little soft. Do you have a unbraced pic?
Patrick
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Here's a unbraced pic, I hope you can see it ok. It kind of blends into the background :-\
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/2F88D4E6-A066-4C30-9387-DE171975DAAC.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/2F88D4E6-A066-4C30-9387-DE171975DAAC.jpg.html)
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I still think it needs a bit more bend on the right limb in the mid limb area. Maybe a bit on the left limb in the same spot. But not as much as the right limb. Hopefully this made sense.
Also, try to find yourself a way to make you a clean backdrop. Like a piece of plywood painted black or white. It will give you a better look at the tiller.
Patrick
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I think I'll stop here. Starting to get into a well tillered matchstick territory :o ::)
But seriously this is only the second time that I have come in under weight, normally I have the opposite problem and have to bring it down :-\
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/D21CB0AC-4AF0-4820-88FA-032FEA141D54_1.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/D21CB0AC-4AF0-4820-88FA-032FEA141D54_1.jpg.html)
Also I look about ready to pass out in this pic lol
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Looks pretty good.
Patrick
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right limb last third needs shaved a little. should correct tiller overall.i was looking at the pic on the other page
Tony