Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: make-n-break on July 23, 2015, 04:08:20 pm
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Would a 58" Osage sapling with a diameter of about an aerosol "OFF" bug-spray can hold up to say a bendy handle 55@22" ?? Straight limb design, no recurves. It's split down the center and a ring is chased. Has pin knots but real nice rings. I'm pretty unfamiliar with Osage, especially this small of diameter. I'm roughing it out today and it will probably only make about 1.25 to 1.5" wide at the widest part of the limbs.
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I'd do it with locust O:)
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Give it a shot. I made one 56" rectangle and tapered. 55@ 24".
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yes it will and more
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I love small diameter(2"+) osage "pole" bows. I've made 4 so far and they are some of my favorite style bows. My bows are about 64" to 66", bend through the handle and range from 45# to 55#@26"(tillered out to 28"). I did add rawhide backing because of pin knots but they also had sapwood on the back. Keep your bow as long as possible and you should be able to get 55#.
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The stave is only 58" Pat but I figured I could make it up by using a shorter draw. Probably back it just for peace of mind.
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if you want to go to 24,, it will probably shoot a little harder with the longer power stroke,,, :)
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A 57" ntn bendy osage made from a 2-4" osage sapling is my favorite bow to make for a 24" draw. I like 'em because of how quickly they can be reduced down to size with a hatchet and rasp and made ready for tillering.
If the back of your stave is relatively clean, the ring is not violated, and it is well tillered a selfbow is very possible from a osage sapling. Sometimes those pin knots will beg for a backing though and sometimes they will be just fine. I'm still not completely sure how identify which pin knots will cause a problem from the ones that won't. ;)
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Here are a few pics of the osage pole bow I built for the Trad Gang Bow Trade a few years ago...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole001e.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole001e.jpg.html)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole004e.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole004e.jpg.html)
...this is how I dealt with a handle for this bendy handle bow. It is laminated shoe leather saturated with super glue...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole005.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/2012TGBowTrade2inchosagepole005.jpg.html)
the finished bow braced...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/TGtradebowdone2012001.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/TGtradebowdone2012001.jpg.html)
...and unbraced...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/TGtradebowdonec2012004.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/TGtradebowdonec2012004.jpg.html)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/almostdone.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/almostdone.jpg.html)
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BadlyBent, bradsmith, I was all for taking your advice and pushing it to 24" draw, but I actually just laid out the bow on the stave and its 54"!! Oops. Might have to stick with 22" after all (?)
Pat, that bow looks great! After looking at yours I wish I would've left the sapwood on. Would have given me a little more wood to work with. I like the built up leather handle and I like the slightly flipped tips. If mine turns out half as good I'll be very happy. Thanks again for the help everyone. I'll post pics if it survives.
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A slight flip of the tips will make better string angle, reducing stack and making less finger pinch at full draw.
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If ya know what your doing you can easily get a hunting weight at a 26" draw out of a 54" piece of osage...thats no problem for it
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I think you have a good plan. Jawge