Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Predictable on July 14, 2015, 01:04:27 pm
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i was reading about how applying polyurethane doesnt make it water proof unless you add several layers. is this okay? will it add weight to my bow if i add several layers? how many layers do you put on your bows?
also any difference b/w the spray on poly and the brush on poly?
lastly, water based vs oil based, as far as i can tell oil based smells more and leaves a "glow" type of finish, water based doesnt smell and has a more clear finish. do you have any preference between the two?
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2 Or 3 layers water will proffs your bow. Steel wool between layers.
Bee's wax and heat out water proffs polyurethane.
I do'nt think the add weight will matter to much weight.
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I used to use water based poly on arrows. I believe it is a harder finish than oil based poly.
Nothing is really water proof and it is not necessarily water you are trying to eliminate but atmospheric moisture which wood absorbs as the humidity changes. Some finishes are more water(moisture) resistant than others. I've always had good luck with Tru-Oil. I usually add a quick spray of satin poly to cut the shine.
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2 Or 3 layers water will proffs your bow. Steel wool between layers.
Bee's wax and heat out water proffs polyurethane.
I do'nt think the add weight will matter to much weight.
what do you mean by "heat out"? how does one do that?
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I used to use water based poly on arrows. I believe it is a harder finish than oil based poly.
Nothing is really water proof and it is not necessarily water you are trying to eliminate but atmospheric moisture which wood absorbs as the humidity changes. Some finishes are more water(moisture) resistant than others. I've always had good luck with Tru-Oil. I usually add a quick spray of satin poly to cut the shine.
thanks, and do you have a preference between brush on and spray on (aerosol cans) poly?
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We use very thin light poly varnish finishes on balsa discus launch gliders (DLG). The trick is to wipe it on with a dunked and squeezed out paper towel, not a brush, and wipe it off again with a dry one. A few layers of that is super light, and yet prevents warping of the balsa skins with humidity changes. Sorry to bring in just a non-bow comment, all I can do at this point, but thought it might help. Also as a former boatbuilder, the best polyurthane varnish for really svere service is/was Z-spar Captains 1015.
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I am also interested in the best ways to finish bows. Could someone possibly give a thorough breakdown of the different types and maybe some example photos or at least explanations? I am working on a tight budget and don't want to spend too much for different finishes before I know a little more.
Thanks in advance!
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3 or 4 coats usually works pretty good for me. 1 coat definetly isn't enough.
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Hard to beat Helmsman in a rattle can. $8 does 3-4 bows, 2-3 coats each. Unless you dive with your bow, it doesn't need to be super sealed 4x over.
For the best appearnace? I find it hard to beat shellac/ Formbys/Johnsons past wax. I like to finish sand and add 1 coat of shellac, let dry. Then wipe on 2-3 coats of Formys tung oil, let dry between coats. Then rub in however many coats of Johnsons Paste Wax you feel like.
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I'm with pearl drums on the helmsman in a spray can, unless I'm doing primitive sealer, then it's 50/50 bees wax and lard melted down and rubbed in once a day for a week, once a week for a month.
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thanks for all the replies. i stained my bow this morning and will be applying a poly finish tonight.
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Whitewoods get 3 coat of Helsmsman spar urethane from spray can. Osage gets 3 cots of Tru Oil which helps fill in pores and then 3 coats of spar urethane. Jawge
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I use my finger to apply Tru-Oil and a spray can for the satin poly over that. For arrows I dipped so I use the can stuff.
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I use water based poly for arrows too. Jawge