Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Fred Arnold on May 29, 2015, 12:06:57 pm
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At one time I found an article posted concerning adding length to limbs by splicing an extension on the end of each limb. I can no longer find the post even by doing a google search.
Are any of you familiar with this process?
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You talking about V splicing in siyahs Fred?
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Not siyahs per se. Just need more length on an osage sleeve T/D bow that I'm working on that will be comfortable for my 28" draw. Currently only have 48" of working limb and have had problems with finger pinch on shorter bows.
I don't particularly care for short draw bows.
I started this bow over 15 yrs ago and stashed it away. I've got a lot of wood but not a lot of length to work with.
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I shot with a guy a few years ago who had broken a laminated longbow (tri-lam) mid limb, and spliced a bi-lam longbow limb into it. Looked amazing, and shot without a single problem. Definitely possible with a long splice and flawless glue lines.
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Sombody posted a holmgaard a while back with spliced in juniper levers
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I'm leaning toward a 4" v-splice on each end. Is that long enough? And how should the splice be oriented, toward the main limb ---> >--------------< <--- or toward the extension ---< <------------> >---?
I'm assuming the V cut into the main body of the limb as on the left being that the tips will be narrowing at this stage.
Bow is currently 56" TTT, 1 1/2" at the fades narrowing to 5/8" at the very tip.
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I'm thinking that George Stoneburg did one a couple years back using a different species of wood for the tips. The contrasting wood looked awesome.
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Yup fred it was gstoneberg go through his post should be an easy find
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Pg 10 in georges posts cedar and osage
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Thanks bubby, found it with your help. It looks like George used a W-splice and his limbs look thicker at the transition. I may not have enough depth to get away with it.
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A simple v and an underlay plus wrapping will reinforce the splice just fine if your outer limb is already a bit shallow in depth.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1970_zpsc8c136a4.jpg)
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Interested in seeing how yours works out. I have one I'm thinking about doing the same to.
Tattoo Dave
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I did this with a standard vee splice and while the bow ultimately broke, it wasn't any where near the splices, no wraps or backing but it was a 35# bow
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PatM, That looks great. Do I need to be concerned with keeping to one growth ring on the extension?
Do you remember how much width you had at the splice and was that approximately 4" splice?
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PatM, That looks great. Do I need to be concerned with keeping to one growth ring on the extension?
Do you remember how much width you had at the splice and was that approximately 4" splice?
The extension can be flipped so the growth rings are edge-ringed. That is stiffer per mass and you can cut a back nock without worrying about growth ting separation.
You only need about half an inch of width to cut the splice. It can be flared out as needed. You only need about three inches of v. That one is about 3.5.
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Yes no problem doing this. The main limb should be the female section and the extension the male part. Plain v splice is the way to go.
If you can't get flawless joints then simple get them as good as you can , then steam the ends for 15 mins or so and then clamp together until cool - they will then be perfect.
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The main limb should be the female section and the extension the male part.
Do you know the reason for this or is this just "the way it's done"
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Yes no problem doing this. The main limb should be the female section and the extension the male part. Plain v splice is the way to go.
If you can't get flawless joints then simple get them as good as you can , then steam the ends for 15 mins or so and then clamp together until cool - they will then be perfect.
;D Logic was telling me the same thing but I've found I'm always better off asking before doing.
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The main limb should be the female section and the extension the male part.
Do you know the reason for this or is this just "the way it's done"
The opposite way will have two "slivers" farther down the limb into the working section.
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Thanks, that make sense
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PatM, I took your advice and used the edge rings and I'm really happy with the results!!
It's been awhile because I've been busy with other projects. A lot of bows in the works and have finished up three, two of which were wedding gifts for a young friend and his new bride. Another for one of my grand daughters. Fist pic is the wedding bows.
I ended up using red cedar for the extensions. I added deer antler for overlays and may knock the size of them down a bit. I've only shot 1/2 dz arrows through it and am amazed at the speed.
I'm going to add a wrap of sinew at the extensions, stain the red cedar, add a couple of arrow rest to the sleeve, do either jute or leather for the handle wrap and finish it off with true oil.
Thanks again for all of you guys help. I'll be showing a snakey osage take down when I get it floor tillered.
60" NTN, 48@29
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Looking good :D. The color contrast makes it stand out nicely too, especially with the white antler overlays.
Is it just the light, or is there a bit of a gap at the lower joint line of the last pic? Depending on th glue you used, that may or may not be an issue.
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joachhim, I used urac i85 for the glue up. After 2 days I then soaked 6" of both tips for 5 minutes in wood hardener. I gave that another couple days indoors to dry out and then heat treated. I think you're just seeing the color of the urac.
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Looks good ,Fred. Now 48" pieces of perfect wood are going to look like a potential full length bow.
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This looks like a fun concept. ...adding it to my bucket list.
OneBow
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I spliced new tips onto a bow that I'd overdrawn. I made the tips the male V and the levers the female because I had V little wood to work with.
Here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/monkey-bow-lives-again.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/monkey-bow-lives-again.html)
Del
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Hey Del, I like your website!!!!
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That looks great! I have a couple of "just a bit short" staves that I will try this on. I wouldn't have thought of ERC for the extensions, but that would make the tips nice and light.
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The red cedar worried me until it was mentioned by PatM to instal them utilizing the edge grain. Then for added insurance I used the wood hardener and heat treated. When heat treating you could see the hardener boiling out of the wood.