Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Green on May 20, 2015, 09:30:18 am
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With much help from James Rempp, videos by Clay Hayes and Gary Davis, as well as TBB I, I have embarked on what is most likely the first of many Osage self bows. This stave is shooting to become a 65" NTN, 45-48@28' longbow. James has advised me to tiller it all the way out, shoot it some, and then revisit the alignment issue. My inexperienced eye is letting the alignment bother me and I'm not sure I'd shoot it once I get to my target weight/draw length. Here are four pics.....two unstrung, two strung, and then some tillering video from last week when I had the bow at 40@16 or so. Any and all advice is really appreciated.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/003_2.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/003_2.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/002.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/002.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/009_3.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/009_3.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/008_3.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/008_3.jpg.html)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J435qRDhhs4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGMSNaAGbQ4
Thanks in advance. Rob
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Depending on who you talk to, being a little off center is not that bad of a thing. Some people even say its good, reducing how much your arrow has to paradox. You've got more than a little bit. What I do in that situation is put the center in a vise, with the limbs curving up, put some weights on each tip, like a couple gallon jugs of water, and then temper the belly with a heat gun.
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If it were me, I would grease up the handle area, heat it up and bend the handle area to get my alignment. Crisco or vegetable oil works to keep it from scorching. Be sure you have your clamps and stuff ready to go before you start heating it up. You'll want to bend it just a smidge further than you want because it will spring back a little. Once your all set, heat, clamp and make sure you're not introducing any unwanted bends or twists. Then let it cool completely before unclamping. It make take a few attempts to get it just right. Also be sure to put wood spacers between the clamps and the actually bow to prevent the clamps from denting your bow. I hope that helps. Josh
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Id do the same as Josh suggested. Take it out at the handle, you can see where it kicks off line.
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X3 what Josh recommended.
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Thanks y'all. James has definitely told me of the paradox benefits of having the string laying a bit towards the shelf side of the bow, so I'm not trying to get it directly over center, but here are two pics with the bow strung and suspended by the tips across the bed of my truck. Things look fine when I do this, and I'm wondering if I am just seeing things when I put the back of the bow on a flat surface. Lol. Kind of wondering how much effect rounding off the belly of the handle would help based on these pics?
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/005.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/005.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/004_2.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/004_2.jpg.html)
I appreciate the info on heating and bending, and I'll most likely end up going that route. I know a lot of you use a heat gun as the suggestions are running that way....is it more beneficial, or just simpler to use than steam bending?
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If I can add to the question? What is the best way of determining whether or not your string alignment is good? I kind of like this pickup bed method that Green is using but it all depends on the angle you're looking at. If he moved toward the cab and took a picture the alignment would look awful. If you have a bit of a wonky stave you can't depend on the back being flat. How do you guys do this?
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This is going to be informative. I just wanted to get this one where I can watch. Good Luck.
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Perhaps its not sitting flat on the table? 2nd round of pics looks good
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Last pics look good!i'd shoot it to see the flight.
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Yes, it's not sitting flat on the table due to all the knots and humps on the back. When I stand it up, the string seems to lay in a nice plane.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/006_1.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/006_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/DSCN1194.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/DSCN1194.jpg.html)
I did continue to tiller it out and now have about 40 shots across it.....tied a piece of leather strapping on for a temporary shelf. Shoots pretty darn nice if I do say so myself. Haven't made it to full draw of 28" yet, but I'll get there before nightfall. ::)
The bumps on the back make it look like a hinge on the inner third of the upper limb, but I don't see that on the tiller tree so some video needs to be shot here in a few minutes for y'all to scrutinize.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/DSCN1193.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/DSCN1193.jpg.html)
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If the string is on the handle I'm good to go.
However, I don't like shooting the bow from the off side because tuning becomes problematic for me. The string invariably strikes my forearm which affects arrow flight.
Jawge
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The way to avoid all these problems is to leave the whole handle section the same width as your limbs (so it's the same width all the way through the handle area), tiller your bow to the stage where it's bending well and can be strung at full brace height.
Once it's actually strung you then simply shape the handle TO the string and not try to force it the other way! Of course there is nothing wrong with the advice above but it can all be avoided by shaping the handle to the string.
I determine where the string wants to sit by putting one tip on the floor and holding the bow strung by the other tip back down/belly up - let gravity show you where the string is actually sitting.
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Yes Mike, that was my biggest rookie mistake (that I know of at this point :laugh:).....laying out and shaping the handle at the outset. I went so far as to measure one inch above center, three inches below, then measured and marked where the shelf would go at 1.25" above the handle. Then, further on in the process I realized the string was laying on the wrong side of the riser from what I had planned. :o
The bow was originally to be 66" ntn, and seeing this alignment and my handiwork on the riser area, James suggested I measure the limbs to determine the longer based on how I'd laid the darned thing out so we could cut an inch off that limb and remark center. Once that was done, then it was back to work chasing tiller in the appropriate manner. Mike, your advice on leaving the riser area full width is exactly what James advised once he'd seen pictures of what I'd done. Said leave the handle for last. Thank God for you experienced mentors!
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I would just tweak it over on the top limb, at least it looks like the top. By the way I always cut my handle also, it is easy enough to line it up if need be later. I agree with Jawges on the off to one side or the other, just makes problems for me and also arm slap can be worse. :)
Pappy
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Mike, good point about leaving the handle full width until full draw or at least the first stringing.
I also leave the nocks a good inch wide and cut the offending side deeper to bring the string towards center. The can be shaped later.
Jawge
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Thanks George.....that was something else I was wondering about.
Here's a couple of pics on the tillering rig. At present this bow is 3/16" positive and at my target weight. Not sure what I should do about what is now the stiff outer part of the upper limb, but I don't want it to develop a hinge just off the riser. Suggestions?
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/001_2.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/001_2.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/002_3.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/002_3.jpg.html)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Osage%20Selfbow%201/003_3.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Osage%20Selfbow%201/003_3.jpg.html)
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You've got a nasty hinge forming right out of the fade on the right limb. Leave that area alone and tiller the middle to outer limb before proceeding any further. You need to make your fades a gentler transition also.
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Up until yesterday, they were a very gentle transition. I got carried away at the longer draws when they were too stiff for about 5' off the riser......lesson learned for sure. I'm gonna lose my draw weight, but that's okay....will get the outer limb bending correctly and enjoy it for what it is.
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U can still hear treat the belly and get some weight back. Keep on trucking
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What would the heat treating recommendations be for this. Remember, I've not done this before. I've got a heat gun and cookin' oil, so I'm all ears and eagerness!
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Although I trive to GET THE TIPS CENTERED TO THE HANDLE. As long as the strings on the handle and to the shelf side I've left personal bows alone. JUST MAKES YOUR BOW A LITTLE MORE CENTER SHOT.
If you leave the string to far off the handle it'll slap your wrist. (EVERYTIME) But a 1/8 th inch off center won't have any affect on the shootable of the bow.