Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: E. Jensen on April 04, 2015, 09:51:03 pm
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Finally got a day to myself. Put in a good 6 hours, even though it was really windy and a bit brisk. I worked on 3 bows. Two I had already worked on and was procrastinating on the tiller and one (osage) I started from scratch this morning.
The first is osage, about 70". The handle came out small and very round (as opposed to oval, which I prefer) but as long as it functions properly, I see it as a good opportunity to try a molded silicone handle wrapped with suede. Got it on a short string after I took these pics on the long string, but haven't yanked it too much farther.
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The mulberry is a little trickier, has some natural kinks in it, and both limbs are quite different. I think I still need to take more off the last 8-12" or so. I do have a Q though, is creaking normal? It'll creek when I draw it, but won't creek afterwards, up to the distance I pulled previous. That normal? There are no cracks that I can see. I thought it was a good piece, the back is a growth ring about 3/8" thick.
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This irish yew bow is about 69-70" with rawhide and rattle backing. I've been working on it a while and basically all I did today was try and get the ends less stiff. I still think they are a little stiff. This one also creaks, but that could be the hide glue? There are numerous cracks on the belly along the length, but I've been told this is not a problem. I've filled them in with thin ac glue, but there are two new ones since I worked on it last summer. Eventually if it tillers ok I'll put horns on it.
Thanks ahead of time for the input. A second (third, fourth, fifth, etc etc) pair of eyes is always appreciated.
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I really have a hard time givin advise on how to but i gotta say i really love ur shop. Looks like a hinge startin on right limb watch that. And get those hips(fades) movin.
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Looks like a really nice place to concentrate and get away...Down time like that is priceless these days...Looks like that Mulberry could use some hooks ;) Nice even bends...
Don
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Hinge on which one? The mulberry? Its tought to tell because of that kink. The wood in that section is actually thicker than if it was perfectly tapered if that makes sense
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Osage looks good on the long string.
I'd probably heat out that defelex from the mulberry...the one at the tip of the left limb.
On the yew, the tip pf the right limb looks hinged. Hard to say. We need an unbraced photo.
Jawge
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I'll try and get one. There is some natural deviation from straight on that one as well but offhand I don't recall exactly how.
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This help?
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How would you guys go about straightening that mulberry kink? It would clamp well in my leather padded vise, but no access to electricity on my mobile workshop for a heat gun. I could get a propane stove and do steam, I could also steam it in the kitchen and clamp it down inside.
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yeah, was talkin about the mulberry, just looked like a hinge startin :)
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that is one spectacular looking workshop you have there... i am completely jealous...
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I owe it all to my wife for buying me the truck, and my father in law for helping me weld the vise mount.
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If u rub oil or crisco on the part ur trying to manipulate u should be able to get it hot enough with a fire. Just hold or prop it near enough for some heat and bend and hold on a jig
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I used to heat staves on my kitchen range. Then run down to te basement to clamp it. Jawge
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Will performance suffer if I don't straighten it?
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The string may slip off at full draw if the angle isn't high enough, hence shorter bows with linger draws usually have flipped tips or recurvea
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Yes, E Jensen, performace may suffer and it ay be harder to tiller properly.
When using dry heat, the wood must be dry. Also, don't force it. It's ok to use 2-3 heatings.
Jawge
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Thanks guys. Its a good length bow so I'm less worried about the string coming off but I'll steam it a few times just to make tillering easier.