Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Renacs on December 22, 2014, 09:54:35 pm
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How many or any of you skip using a longstring. When tillering? Over the last few year I've been going straight to brase. And since then I've had less bows tiller funky. Have any of you noticed the same results?
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I have on occasion butI don't usually becasue I can really see how the limbs are bending with the long string. Jawge
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I don't skip it, but I go to low brace early. I use it to get there once floor tiller shows a good even flex on both limbs. The long string just tells me the low brace will be even.
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Some years back, I floor tillered a hickory that I thought was perfect ??? To my amazement after bracing it looked like a hockey stick and caused severe set on one side. I have to use the long string to see both limbs working evenly...
Don
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I just make my bow string a little long to start with and shorten with timber hitch. cheers fiddler49
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Today for the first time I went to full brace right away on a 3 piece bow. Low weight bow mind you........like 30'ish or so.
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I love using the long string but once I get the tips to move 6" or so I move to low brace if everything is OK. Shortly after low brace I like my limbs bending evenly and together. From then on it is just reducing weight.
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I floor tiller and go to brace. I have gotten so good that sometimes ( read lucky ) my tiller is spot on. I never really have a bad tiller at brace.
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I don't skip it, but I go to low brace early. I use it to get there once floor tiller shows a good even flex on both limbs. The long string just tells me the low brace will be even.
+1
I don't floor tiller..
Del
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The long string is your friend. Less stress on the stave than when braced and it will tell you everything you need to know. I go to about 20 inch draw on the long string. It really helps with set but you need to know how it alters the limbs shape compared to actual brace.
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Unless it's a really wonky stave, I too skip the long string. But, I do an aggressive floor tiller that comes with experience. Bob
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Almost always use one unless it is a very light weight bow. :)I use a long string just long enough to go end to end and a tiller stick 1 inch at a time until I get ready for low brace, when all is even there I go to the tiller tree. Slow I know but I am not usually in any big hurry anyway to get one braced. ;) :) :) :)
Pappy
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I almost never use one anymore. By the time I get it braced its usually about 10 pounds over weight, so there isn't that much to take off to bring it to full draw.
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I may be the worst at floor tillering anyone has seen so I skip it and go strait to long string
If you are good at floor tillering then you can skip the long string
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I almost never use one anymore. By the time I get it braced its usually about 10 pounds over weight, so there isn't that much to take off to bring it to full draw.
Yup, that's what he taught me!
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I quit using the long string for a while, but I've gone back to it now. I find its easier to keep set to a minimum when using the long string. I typically take the most set getting a bow to brace because I'll rush it. The long string allows me to see any problems earlier and make sure the limbs are bending evenly.
But I don't use it for long. Once I get the limbs bending evenly at a reasonable tension I go right to either a low or full brace depending on the stave.
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I use the long string and a Gizmo, makes life a lot easier. I am never in a hurry and like to go to the short string over poundage with minimal tillering "challenges".
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If I am building a bow I am real familiar with, mid 60's in length, mid 50's in draw wieight with mild r/d I skip the long string. Most everything else I long string before I brace.
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This is what I do on 'normal' staves (not excessive character):
very exact measurements width and thickness
> no floortiller
> long (as short as possible) string horizontally hooked in the vice allows quick corrections and looking on both limbs same way
> asap low brace
> brace
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The long string is your friend. Less stress on the stave than when braced and it will tell you everything you need to know. I go to about 20 inch draw on the long string. It really helps with set but you need to know how it alters the limbs shape compared to actual brace.
When people say that they pull to "x" inches on the long string how are they measuring that? Doesn't that depend on the length of the long string or are they going by twice the tip movement or some such?
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i like to use it,, I think it gets the wood used to bending,,,
especially if the bow is reflexed,, I will put the bow on long string before bracing,,,even when it has been braced before
I really think it helps when making a heavy bow,, on lighter bows I can see you could skip,,
and I think it is real help with sinew bows,, really hard to tell what they are going to do first time braced
the long string gives you a hint :)
I think it helps increase the odds of not breaking a bow on first brace
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DC- My longstring is actually under tension once hooked on the nocks. It definitely isn't loose at all. Therefore the draw length is just as measurable as with say with a 1 inch brace or whatever.
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I use sash cord roughly 10" longer than the bow. Ball park.
Stretch the string. Mark it. Pull a certain amount. I pull to 10" eventually, not all at once,depending on the length of the stave, look for good limb movement and target weight or 5# over. Then I string it. This puts the stave 15# over target.
I never pull the long string more than 5# over target,.
Jawge
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I don't skip it, but I go to low brace early. I use it to get there once floor tiller shows a good even flex on both limbs. The long string just tells me the low brace will be even.
Yeah, me, too. I am constantly shortening the string as I think the bow will take it.
Also, in lieu of floor tillering, I often put my foot on a step, place the handle against my knee, grab as far out as I can (I have a 73" wingspan) and just pull back like a rowing motion. I can alt least tell when the stave is way, way too stiff, and when the inner limbs just start to bend. And I can't pull back too far in that position, so the stave isn't stressed.
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"When people say that they pull to "x" inches on the long string how are they measuring that? Doesn't that depend on the length of the long string or are they going by twice the tip movement or some such?
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I always assumed they meant tip movement.
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10 in. of string movement. Not tip movement. At full draw with a strung bow the tips may move 3 inches at most. Jawge