Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Comancheria on December 19, 2014, 02:15:51 pm
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My friends: I apologize in advance for having diarrhea of the mouth, but I suppose you know that by now 😊. A couple of disclaimers and a little full disclosure:
First: This thread is in the nature of general research and providing for my education. I PROBABLY will not be buying a bandsaw in the very near future.
Second: I am interested only in the use of bandsaws for bow making. It is highly doubtful that I would ever want to re saw 14-inch lumber for veneer--or cut out 50 cute little elephants in one pass--or get a bowl ready for the lathe.
Third: I have read almost everything on this site about bandsaws. I know there is a lot of good feeling about Grizzly and if I bought one today it would almost certainly be that brand. However, most of what I have read goes back a couple of years--to 2012 or even 2008.
And finally, I am aware--through reading, though not by experience--of both the time and labor saving advantages, as well as the limitations and dangers to the bow of use (or rather misuse) of the bandsaw.
I am considering the following Grizzly's:
3/4 HP: $490
1 HP: $600
1.5 HP: $825
The first two include shipping--the last one has free shipping.
That said, for those of you who do use this tool--HOW do you use it for bow making? Freehand rough cutting of staves? Boards? Do you ever cut whole or half logs that require more than a six inch depth of cut? What one blade would you buy? (I am thinking maybe a carbide with 3-5 teeth per inch?
Any other uses I am omitting?
I know at least one of you long-time bow makers feels 3/4 HP is enough. Comments? Especially on power needed and value for money of the three listed saws?
And for those Grizzly fans out there: do you still like the brand? (All other brand owners feel free to chime in too.)
Thanks, as always,
Russ
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Grizzly is a good brand, as far as power more is always better but 3/4 will do the job
I use mine for rough out boards and staves cutting tip overlays lots of things, you might check craigslist
You may be able to get a deal on a used one, mine ain't a grizz but i got a 14"at a yardsale for $50
And it gets it done
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Russ, I have a Grizzly 14", 1hp saw. I use it primarily to reduce rough, split out staves to floor tiller staves. It saves me about 3 or 4 hours of hard drawknife work. You can get the bark and most of the sapwood off too if you are careful. I rarely use my bandsaw for finer bow work. Its too easy to screw up. I love my Grizzly and haven't regretted buying it for a second. I would suggest the 1hp model. I think a little overkill is way better than overloading an under powered saw. If you are working with boards you probably only need the 3/4hp but I work mostly with osage split out staves. I just bought 2 new blades for my saw. They are 4hook. I think the next ones I buy will be 6hook because the 4hook is a bit too aggressive for me and they get in a bind easier than the ones I used before.
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I have a 14" delta 1 horsepower. It does a pretty good job but there are times I wish I had 1 1/2. If you can afford 1 1/2 I would go for it. 6" is about the biggest I like to put through mine, I occasionaly go a little bigger but try to avoid it.
I would have to say the bandsaw is my most used power tool with the 6" belt sander the second most. They are very handy for flattening bamboo backing stips, cutting laminations, all aspects of roughing out a bow. I use it a lot more on white woods and tropical hardwoods than I do osage.
As for blades I used to buy expensive blades but no longer. I pay about 10 bucks for the 1/2" 4 tooth carbon backs I think they are called. I have a blade welder and some bandsaw stock but only use it when I am in a pinch. If my supplier has 3 tooth in stock I will often buy that as well, better for cutting laminations.
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Thanks, guys. I go back and forth on whether I will ultimately buy one. Although info have one Osage on the ground which I will get to in mid January and a lead on others--most of my bows will be first from boards and then from white wood staves when I have had enough lessons from ya'll😊. I have every axe and hatchet known to man and 4 wedges--so I can and will split.
I will never get into woodworking in general (don't need one more expensive hobby)--though a table saw and sander would be handy--and if I go with the 3/4 HP bandsaw, I could afford a decent contractor-sized table saw as well. But mostly I will be making bows. I have decided I am serious about that.
Am I correct in assuming that you all mostly make freehand cuts?
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I bought the 14" 1 hp anniversary model from grizzly this past spring and I have been very pleased with it. I use it for roughing out bows from staves. I also use it to cut slabs of osage for knife handles. I have only used the Orson blades on it so far and they have worked well. Bubby mentioned Craigslist. That is a great place to find a deal on a used saw. If you go that way, look it over good before you buy one. I just sold my table saw. I found I used it more as a table than a saw. If you are going to get serious about bow making a band saw will be a wise investment. It will save a lot of work and muscle soreness from swinging a hatchet.
Badger is an expert on a bandsaw. I watched him cut out some bows at the Classic. They are nearly tillered when he is done.
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I should add (and Bubby can confirm this, having assisted me 😳), I am something of a klutz when it comes to working with my hands*), and I am aware that the bandsaw requires more prep, TLC and adjustment than most power tools. I find this worrisome. I would even add some
To the purchase price to get a unit that requires less tinkering.
* I am like the guy about whom Brother Dave Gardner said: "you get away from that wheelbarrow--you know you don't know nothin' about machinery!"
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Outlaw: Grizzly has several of their 14 inch saws that seem very similar: regular, "Anniversary", and "Poar Bear" lines. Did you see any difference in those lines--other than cosmetics?
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Never mind that last--it appears the differences are cosmetic.
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Outlaw, I have also screwed up more staves than I care to admit to. Commancher, if you have a neighbor or friend who knows bandsaws have them come over and teach you hot to set it up. Not a lot to learn but very important you learn it. If you don't know anyone maybe you could get one of us on the phone and help walk you through a set up.
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Mine is a 14" 1hp bandsaw from JET. I love it but only because I can switch blades and cut metal, bone, and wood on the same tool. I also use it to cut rawhide into strips. I don't use it much on staves unless I want to remove a lot of wood but I will not cut anything thicker than 4" even thought he saw can handle 6".
I didn't have a bandsaw for the first several years of building bows and I realized how much time I lost by not having one. If you need to make a lot of bows, you will definitely need one. If you are only making one or two a year, you probably don't need one.
Tuning a bandsaw is a pain until you've got your system down. It took me a year to get used to tuning mine the way I needed. I sometimes cut really dense material: copper rods, steel rods and nails, bone, ipe, osage, hickory, plastic rods, etc. and then I'll switch to really lightweight material like rawhide and feathers all in the same day.
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There's always a new generation that has to learn.
Don't buy a new saw and don't buy one that is made or has parts made in the Pacific Rim.
Go here and learn all about classic saws that will last for several lifetimes and cost far less than a new one.
http://www.owwm.org/ (http://www.owwm.org/)Old Woodworking Machines
I have an OLD Delta that will run circles around a Grizzly, Jet, Rigid or other pot metal/plastic contaminated machine. I also have an OLD Craftsman and an OLD Beaver that are in their second half centuries and going strong.
Watch craigslist and be patient. The photo is of my 1937ish Delta.
Jim Davis
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Badger: I appreciate your offer and if I do buy one, I almost guarantee you find me on the phone whining!😊
Patrick: Now that you mention it, it would be nice to be able to cut metal. I hear of "metal cutting bandsaws" as opposed to "woodworking" bandsaws. As a practical matter, is the ability to cut metal just a function of blade and power--or are there other factors that distinguish the two?
Jim: I understand what you are saying and could not agree more that things are no longer made with the same quality as in yesteryear. You are obviously a person with a lot of power tool experience. For myself, lacking your level of expertise in dealing with the older items, I am hesitant due to my perception (right or wrong) that (1) parts might be non-standard or unavailable, (2) my lack of maintenance skills, and (3) the fact that I live in a small town, deep in the bowels of South Texas, 200 miles from really major cities. Still, since I am in no rush, I intend to take what you say seriously. My thanks.
Russ
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Jim: I understand what you are saying and could not agree more that things are no longer made with the same quality as in yesteryear. You are obviously a person with a lot of power tool experience. For myself, lacking your level of expertise in dealing with the older items, I am hesitant due to my perception (right or wrong) that (1) parts might be non-standard or unavailable, (2) my lack of maintenance skills, and (3) the fact that I live in a small town, deep in the bowels of South Texas, 200 miles from really major cities. Still, since I am in no rush, I intend to take what you say seriously. My thanks.
Russ
Russ, the biggest of your 3 above concerns is the last one. We just can't change our gepgraphy. :(
Parts are no problem. People part out old woodworking machines all the time and sell the parts on eBay an the OWWM.org members buy, sell and trade parts and machines all the time.
As far as your lack of maintenance skills, guess what--nobody was born with those skills and the OWWM bunch are eager to advise and enable beginners.
The geography is not your friend, though OWWM forum members ship and otherwise transport machines to each other .
At least check out the website. It's inspiring, encouraging and enlightening.
Jim
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Thats a good web site Jim, I never have any problems finding common parts for old machines. Somethings like switches and motors can be pretty generic.
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Jim and Badger: Yes--I've run across that site and will definitely go back on your recommendation.
Jim: the problem (please note the happy faces:😃😃😃😃😃, is that I hear guys like you say things like--
"It's easy! All you do is saw the frame in half with a plasma cutter, temper the end of the top in boiling whale oil, MIG weld it to the frame of an Abrams tank, hone down the cross-threaded whatchamaguffin so that it will accept a beveled clackapawhatchit (readily available from Nepal), and build your own gears from melted down Volkswagen keys." More happy faces: 😀😀😀😀😀. Good Lord, Man--imagine if I called you into a room and assigned you to explicate in 10,000 words or more, the use of Greek Mythology in James Joyce's "Ulysses"!
But all joking aside, you are quite right--If I am going to do this stuff, I am going to need to upgrade my skills.
Russ
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Thats a good web site Jim, I never have any problems finding common parts for old machines. Somethings like switches and motors can be pretty generic.
Even the uncommon parts can be found thanks to the web. Those guys at OWWM (I'm one of them) never throw away a usable part from a parted-out machine.
Jim
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Comancheria, On most bandsaws, the ability to cut metal is just a matter of a change of the blade and maybe some tension adjustment. As long as you're not cutting anything large, the heat generated by cutting can be controlled by dipping the workpiece in water from time to time.
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When cutting metal you also need to use the slowest speed set up on the pulleys.
Hamish
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Russ, Jim has made some excellent points. I have a 1 1/2 hp 14" Delta that is several years old and I paid about 1/3 the new cost for it......from Craigslist. If you're patience and resourceful, you can find a good machine at a reasonable cost. And a GOOD machine will need less repair anyway. I doubt you will ever be sorry that you took your time and found a quality machine.
I use my saw for roughing out split staves and reducing it to a floor tiller form.......and many, many other uses......huge time saver as has been mentioned above. A 1/2" 3 tooth blade works well for me. Like Pat B mentioned, I use my saw to reduce the bulk then switch to hand tools.
Go for a good one. You won't regret it.
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Hamish, mine is not the "VS" model (variable speed) so I only have one setting on the pully. :)
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My thanks to everyone who chipped in and answered my questions. As I said, I have time and wll definitely look over the site and forum dealing with older machines. I have a book by Nick Engler titled "Using the Bandsaw", which includes a plan for buildimg your own variable pulley system for speed control. Thanks again.
Russ
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Having just submitted my application to join the OWWM forums--and having read a few recent threads, I am struck once again by how possible it is to be hard core on so many subjects. And it is also wonderful--were it not for the various "hobbies" relating to old woodworking, old metal working, antique tractors and gas engines, old cars--and yes, primitive archery--the tools and techniques would be lost in short order. The passion of enthusiasts keeps knowledge alive. For all I know, there may be a discussion group dealing with ambushing wild hogs with homemade flint knives. And if I were closer to 30 than I am to a hundred--I just might join!😃
Russ