Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Aaron H on December 13, 2014, 10:55:15 am
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I made this threaded brass take down sleeve today at work. Took me about 4 hours, and that was screwing up the female end and having to remake it. It measures 1.500" on the OD, 1.125" on the ID, and 5" total length. I also single pointed 14 pitch threads about .010" deep into the bore for a tooth for the wood to grab onto. The threads measure 1"-14-RH. I also machined in a .050" shoulder because I plan to wrap all but the last .300" with leather, and that should make the leather and brass shoulder flush to each other.
I plan to make a take down sometime in the next year, just thought I would be ready whenever the urge strikes me. :D
I have to give credit to asharrow because I saw him build one similar to this out of steel.
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Thats purdy cool!
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Is the recessed area to allow for a leather covering?
I hope you worked through your lunch break to make up for it ;) O:)
Del
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Nice looking work. May I suggest drilling out the male threaded part to reduce weight? I have started doing that with my steel ones.
I wonder if the epoxy will stick to the brass??? It doesn't really need to though. You can put a small pin or screw through the sleeve into the wood to anchor it if needed. I have had to do that.
If you single-pointed the female thread you are more ambitious than I am. I use a tap in the lathe after drilling and boring. I do single-point the male thread.
I also wonder if the 1-1/2" diameter is going to feel like quite a handful, especially with the added thickness of the leather.
Anyway, it's great to see someone applying their skills!
Jim
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Is the recessed area to allow for a leather covering?
I hope you worked through your lunch break to make up for it ;) O:)
Del
Del, Yes, the recessed area is for the leather to sit flush with the brass. We were pretty slow today, I had to find something to pass the time ;)
Nice looking work. May I suggest drilling out the male threaded part to reduce weight? I have started doing that with my steel ones.
I wonder if the epoxy will stick to the brass??? It doesn't really need to though. You can put a small pin or screw through the sleeve into the wood to anchor it if needed. I have had to do that.
If you single-pointed the female thread you are more ambitious than I am. I use a tap in the lathe after drilling and boring. I do single-point the male thread.
I also wonder if the 1-1/2" diameter is going to feel like quite a handful, especially with the added thickness of the leather.
Anyway, it's great to see someone applying their skills!
Jim- I'm pretty sure the wood will stick to the brass with epoxy, but that is why I turned in some tooth, for reassurance. I thought about drilling out the center, maybe I will do that on my next one. The 1.500" is the shouldered area, the rest is 1.450", which is where the leather will lay. I think it feels good in the hand, I will know more whenever I finish the bow. Maybe I will end up making one different next time.
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I just weighed it, it reads just over 1 lb. :o
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You ever use this in a bow?
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Not yet Shane. One day.... ;) ???
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Nice work, kind of touchy on cold days been metal and all. I may build a fiberglass type handle this summer. In one past issue of PA magazine there is 2 write ups on takedowns. You should get that copy..! ;)
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Bow101- I thought about holding a cold piece of brass in the fall, that is why I cut a recess in most of it and left a shoulder on either end. I plan on wrapping it with leather, and the brass shoulders should sit flush with the leather.