Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: WillS on November 13, 2014, 10:50:37 am
-
Hi folks,
I usually make longbows/warbows (in fact that's all I've tried!) but I've just been asked to build somebody a lightweight bow they can use on horseback. I'm clueless about this, so any simple, effective designs would be most appreciated!
I don't have the means to do laminates yet, so it will have to be a self bow. I can heat reflexes in, but have not tried it yet. What's a good draw weight for a horse bow, and is it possible with a self bow?
Cheers guys!
-
Theres been a few awesome unbacked north american style horse bows posted here.
What draw length you going for?
One thing ive noticed, a short bow of 40# draw around 20-24" is pretty tough to be accurate and shoot comfortable. Might just take some getting used too.
You probably wouldn't want it longer than 48" if it'll be shot from a horse, and obviously bend through the handle.
What wood will you use?
-
I'd go 2x the draw length + about 10% and make it bend through the handle. You may want to kick the tips a bit too to help with the string angle at full draw. 40# would be good draw weight.
-
Many horsebows from ancient times were actually around the 60 inch mark with asymmetrical limbs.
You can easily duplicate this style in self wood with spliced in siyahs. I rarely make any other sort of bow now.
Here's a pic of a couple of them glued up. A simple Elm bow of narrow paddle shape about 45-48 inches long with Ash siyahs glued in with a v-splice which makes a bow around 57-62 inches long.
Quick easy and effective. Kassai and his students all use bow of this design and length for horseback use.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/CIMG3955.jpg)
-
Pat... do you have a shot of those strung and drawn?
::)
-
once you get to 24 or 25 inch draw,, it is easier to be accurate,, but you can get used to the shorter draw as well,,
-
Awesome, thanks for the replies so far guys.
Wizard - not entirely sure on the draw length. The difficulty here is that it's meant to be a present for somebody's husband, and she can't ask him or he'll figure it out. It's just for a bit of fun I think, so heavy poundage probably isn't necessary. From what you've all been saying I think 40# is the weight I'll be going for.
I'd like to do this in yew if I can, but if not then hazel or ash as I've got suitable staves already seasoned.
PatM - those look sensational. I'm sure they're not as simple as you make them look however! I've never even tried splicing billets, let alone siyahs, but I'm more than willing to give it a go. Is there any chance you could show the back profile of those bows?
Many thanks all of you!
-
Pat... do you have a shot of those strung and drawn?
::)
Probably or I could take some of the one I still have.
What's with the eye roll?
-
Wills, there was a recent post with a link to a self-bow 5 curve design, I can't locate it now, but someone else knows and they will respond, I made one of Osage and it came in at 35#'s, lighter than I wanted, but it shoots great, this design would work great as a short bow with a short draw.
-
Patm I've been wanting to make a Hun style bow for a while but the siyahs are my problem, not really sure how to do them. Is there a build along on here ? I would like to see some pics of yours up close.
-
Just look for a natuaraly bent piece of wood and get your 'pre-grown recurves' from that. They are small enough to quick dry and then it's a v splice to attach them. Taking great care to use a perfect centerline.
-
Patm I've been wanting to make a Hun style bow for a while but the siyahs are my problem, not really sure how to do them. Is there a build along on here ? I would like to see some pics of yours up close.
The Hun bow was from the era of low siyah angles and non string contact. You can just get a larger board of Ash with flat grain and cut siyahs from that and flip the grain so that it runs vertically.
I will take pics of one cut out.
-
Here's some random pics of various siyahs and bows in various stages of making.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1982_zps5bf6d96c.jpg)
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1981_zpsc1c6f974.jpg)
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1977_zps896db155.jpg)
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1972_zps84d5d103.jpg)
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1970_zpsc8c136a4.jpg)
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/IMG_1949_zps635f3e8f.jpg)
-
That's perfect Pat, exactly what I needed to see. Thank you very much!
-
personally id experiment with native american designs their very versatile. plains indian, west coast, modoc, etc
chuck
plus don't have to be laminated,
sinued, wood only
-
A longer Eurasian style is far more user friendly to someone with a background in longer draw archery style which I suspect Will's client will be.
-
Those are looking sweet pat.
-
I thought he was looking up at the pic above.
-
Cool stuff, Pat. I think I will start using that method to repair some failed recurves and Molies I have. I know you don't back em, but I could easily patch in some linen cloth over the splice and then wrap em up like you do. The splices sure are pretty.
If I was building an all wood "horsebow" without historical or material parameters, I'd do about what Pat says. Maybe a deflex-recurve with stiff siyahs, or long semiworking recurves, and not too long, 60" on the upper end. Shooting from a horse, to my eye, does not lend itself to long, squared-shoulder draws and deep, long anchors, but I'm guessing.