Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: OffTiller on November 12, 2014, 08:13:22 pm
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so i am now hunting with my bow and arrow set i made this year. the only thing i am not making is broad heads. looking online i have come across heads made from tie plates, saw blades of many types, spoons and etc... my question is who actually hunts with homemades? it seems everyone know how to make them and everyone says they're confident about their ability to kill but no one, that i've found yet, has actually given testimony that they've actually successfully taken game with them. i just asking because i don't have the experience to decide the best avenue to take.
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Twistedlimbs got a video and he shows pictures of deer he killed then shows you how to make the broadhead. So, there's somebody that has killed them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-II5RRoDZD0
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thanks primitive tim. I have seen spoon points before but the explanation was very thorough and connected the dots on a few gaps that had been missing with other videos. i know weapons can be made from anything, but its nice to see those in action and to see that they are just as effective as my big money broad heads. everyday i am learning to break free of the bonds of the "just go buy it" mentality and this was very appreciated.
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I killed one with a band saw blade point this year. It went through bone and didn't hurt the point.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16903.jpg)
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That metal is thin but very strong. They cut stainless with the saw blades at work so I know its good quality steel. I add the shaft of a nail behind the point for added weight. If you need some metal for trade points send me a PM and maybe we can work out a trade.
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I made this one from a 7 1/4" circular saw blade. It killed the biggest buck ive ever got.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/misc/20141117_192820.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/misc/index.jpg)
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That is a monster. Nice one Turtle!
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Thanks for the reply guys. My wonderful wife went out and got me a dremel tool for an early xmas present, so i went out and bought a few spoons, a circular saw blade and a band saw blade. Now maybe a stupid question, while designing my broad heads does it affect anything if i do like turtle or osage outlaw where there is no (don't know the term) extended "tang" or if there is. Obviously the weight - am i over thinking this?
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I'm not sure if there is any benefit between one way or the other. My first trade point attempts had a tang. I didn't like the extra work it added to making the point. I ended up going with the most simple and easy to cut out design. Plus I get more points out of the metal.
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i also have no good way of even etching out nocks, i have a real hard time filing them out straight, so maybe no tang would allow less room for error.
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I use a chainsaw file for the side notches.
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When I'm making self nocks I make one bandsaw cut then open them to size with a thin bladed knife and sandpaper.
I prefer to make a simple triangular broadhead with a few slots for hafting.
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If you have a Dremel now you have every tool needed for cutting a nock out.
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those are great suggestions using my dremel or bandsaw. I have a chainsaw file and a "file" for my hacksaw - don't know what else it's called but on the packaging it's called 'the incredible blade'. both of those are hard for me to cut straight with, they can get kinda wavy.
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I've tried using 3 hacksaw blades put together, I've tried a ceramic saw(probably what you have) and the single bandsaw cut works the best for me. Even if the cut is off center you can shift it when fitting it to the string.
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notch..nock????? Is this a confusing post or have I had too many cold ones tonight??? ;D ;D ;)
DBar
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IMHO I think the trade points/knapped points with "notches" hangs up and does not get as good of penetration as the ones that use a tang or holes instead of notches as Turtle's photo shows. Smooth / unbroken cutting surface ...? :-\
DBar
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I believe I use a 9/32 drill bit for my self nocks, and then a utility knife with a new blade.
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IMHO I think the trade points/knapped points with "notches" hangs up and does not get as good of penetration as the ones that use a tang or holes instead of notches as Turtle's photo shows. Smooth / unbroken cutting surface ...? :-\
DBar
That's why I like simple Triangle knapped points. I don't care if they come off inside of a critter.
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You guys have me thinking now. When I pulled my trade point out of my deer this year the notches hung up and made it tough to get out. I wonder if it would have the same affect going in. I might have to do an experiment if somebody in the family gets another deer this year.
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I've done a little experimenting Clint.....Would appreciate knowing what you come up with. :) ;)
DBar
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OK Bill. I guess it depends on the hunting ability of my mom, wife, son, and niece :o There is a very good chance I won't get to experiment on a deer until next fall ;D
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If you look through Overstreet's arrowhead book, you will see almost every Culture and Region utilized a simple triangle point for use in a Bow. They are simple to make, sharp and you just have to wrap the shaft about an inch and a half down the shaft below the point with sinew.
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really appreciate all the feed back. i've only had a few moments to tackle this project over the last couple days, i almost have a few finished up but hit a road block last night and i have another question. can't remember where i came across it, but saw somewhere that, you should only use hide glue on sinew because using any other glue doesn't allow the sinew to shrink properly, which would defeat the purpose of even attempting a primitive arrow. is there any truth in this. and if so, can i use scraps from tanned hides to make or can i buy raw hide chews to make? thanks
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really appreciate all the feed back. i've only had a few moments to tackle this project over the last couple days, i almost have a few finished up but hit a road block last night and i have another question. can't remember where i came across it, but saw somewhere that, you should only use hide glue on sinew because using any other glue doesn't allow the sinew to shrink properly, which would defeat the purpose of even attempting a primitive arrow. is there any truth in this. and if so, can i use scraps from tanned hides to make or can i buy raw hide chews to make? thanks
I think the use of hide glue with sinew mainly aplies to sinew backing. I often use titebond with sinew for arrows to make it more waterproof.
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I chew sinew for arrow wraps. The saliva and sinew makes its own glue. Once that has dried I use super glue or TBIII glue as a waterproof sealer.