Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: mhof86 on November 04, 2014, 11:31:04 am
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So my first few bows aside from one all came in pretty light. This one I am trying to keep as much weight as I can. Red oak pulling 55# at 29", no backing, no heat treating (as of yet). To me what I see is "left" limb as it sits in the tree and full brace needs work as well as mid limb on the opposite (flat spot). Let me know what you guys think.
I am not planning on backing this one, but have rolled around the idea of heat treating the belly. I have read a lot on the subject and this might be the bow I give it the old college try on...
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Get those outer bending mate, you're working on hinging the fade at least on the left from what I can see.
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Yep stay eight inches away from the fades and get the rest doing its share of the work, next ti
time try and get a more even bend at brace before going so far
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After working mid to outer limbs dropped 3 lbs while working these. Still not there but I think I am heading in the right direction.
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Looks pretty good from my seat. Maybe the right middle is a bit stiff. Left side look spotless.
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+1 pearlie, that bottom limb is great if it doesn't end up too much stronger than the upper. I believe in a positive tiller but it only works to a point.
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More work into it. I am leaving the left limb alone but right still look a little whip ended to you guys? That's what I am seeing anyway.
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I see no wip; in fact I think it could stand but doesn't necessarily require a couple scrapes in the last few inches.
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Maybe during the final sanding I will just give that spot a little more love with the sandpaper... Thanks for the help here huisme and pearlie.
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I think you are trying to rush the early stages of the tillering process. It's hard to make weight rushing like that. By the time you get to standard brace most of the unevenness should already be worked out.
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I was going to say, slowing down would really help. Don't pull any farther if you think you might see a flaw and your bows will come in at weight far more reliably.
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Thanks Pat. You are exactly right. I was lazy and didn't have a string made up long enough for a slack string on this bow. Ended up going from floor tiller to a low brace and then rushed through to that first pic. It is pulling 47ish at this point. So its not a total waste and it should shoot an arrow. I will probably wrap this one up for a christmas present. I have a buddy that wants one but doesn't have the time to make one. Seems as good a use as any for this one.
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I see no wip; in fact I think it could stand but doesn't necessarily require a couple scrapes in the last few inches.
This is it. It is a very common thing I see. Something about a lot of peoples' eyes wants them to overbend the inner limb. I have done it. This costs you so much draw weight, makes outer limbs heavier than needed, and causes set.
Despite that you are doing great. Just try really hard to compare the braced profile to the pulled profile. Take pics if you have to. NOt being mean or braggy, but I immediately saw that the outer limb at brace height barely changes at all when you put the bow on the tree and drew it.
Also, you need a way to control how hard you are pulling on that string when checking on the tree. You should not be pulling any more than final draw weight, even if that means the bow only bends a few inches. I use a some old barbell plates, add them up to 50 lb or whatever, mount the bow on my tree and hang it from the string. An inline spring scale would be better, but that is what I got,.
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Thanks springbuck so far to measure draw weight I have been using a luggage scale (you can see it having off the side of the tree). I didn't think of comparing brace to draw pictures. This is the first one I really used a camera during tiller in and it will not be the last.
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Looks good.i think if you get your right outer limb coming around you will be golden.