Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bowhntineverythingnh03743 on August 14, 2014, 12:29:54 am
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As the title says this is going to be my ninth attempt at making a selfbow. It has been quite some time since I have posted on the site but am itching to jump back into the primitive art of selfbows. Here is my question for you all... I am looking to get a nice, easy, clean stave that is well seasoned and ready to work.
Where and what type of wood would best suit me for building a selfbow that may actually make it through the process?
I have many high tech laminated bows under my belt but these selfbows have me frustrated to no end. I sit here and review all of your bows which are awesome and think to myself that it would be a blast to hit the woods next spring with a snake backed selfbow for myself.
Any help, tips, comments are welcomed... Thanks to you all in advance!
Justin
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Hey Justin-
I recognize you from the TG forum where I'm aka "takefive". I'd go with an osage stave. That stuff is just amazing and I've seen so many of them that look great with snake skins. I buy staves on ebay and have found that if I read the description and study the pictures carefully, I can get a stave that I'm happy with for a pretty decent price. Some sellers seem to fudge the ring thickness a bit, (what they call medium, I think of as thin) but as long as the early/late wood ratio is good, it will still make a good bow. Good luck!
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1. Osage 2. Osage 3. Osage. Where do You live Justin ? Maybe You can find someone close, to help Ya thru the first Bow. Good luck - Bob.
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Hockory is not a ba option as it can take a LOT of abuse and mistakes and still turn out a very good bow. It tends to grow real straight with thick rings. not that osage orange would be a bad starter, but for me osage is a little harder to get
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Hickory stave or a nice, straight grained red oak board are good places to start. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html
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Have you studied each of your 8 failures to see why they failed? I'd bet most weren't the wood you used. ::)
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Hey Justin - good to see you back around man! I would echo the suggestions of those that are saying Hickory. It was my first wood for building a self-bow too. It is more forgiving than most and can endure minor errors in grain violation better than other bow woods. The only draw back to hickory is that it can be a bit of a 'wooden sponge' - which limits it's ability as a 'wooden spring'. This is not really too big of an issue, as you can easily heat treat the snot out of it and then seal it as well as possible. Nothing will actually lock out all humidity, but you can radically slow down the rate at which the wood will take up humidity from the air.
...again, it's good to see you back!
OneBow
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Elm stave!I can't even managed to break one!you may bust the belly,but not the back!
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osage osage osage...the new bowyers buddy!!
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I am an Osage guy, and I think it's hard to beat whether one is a newbie or a journeyman but, any of the well known bow woods will work. Elm, Ash, Hickory, Pecan, Hackberry, Hard Maple, and many others. Start with a good straight stave with as few blemishes as possible. Make sure it was cared for properly and it is dry. From there design and execution will get you just about anything you want. Design and execution being at the top of the list before wood choice.
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Didn't I send you some elm and osage last year? Or was that somebody else? Ive shipped so much I forget.
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Thanks for the input guys. Chris you sent me an elm stave and it had a little curve towards one tip. I didn't follow the grain perfectly and ended up snapping that tip during the tillering process. I do think I have a nice hickory stave... I also have two billets of hickory that I received to make a takedown but I do believe I'm not ready for a takedown. I really like Osage and may try and squire and or buy a clean stave of it. I do have some really cool snaky Osage billets for a takedown but I'm saving those until I get more experience.
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Now I remember. I made Pat a bow from the split off that one. At least you recognized your error, that's a big step forward.
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Yes all of my staves have had some sort of dog leg in them or a grain that has some sort of character in it. I need to start with a clean straight stave for a few bows and learn the correct dimensions before I go diving into a character stave.
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George's suggestions are the cheapest and easiest to build a bow from.
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most staves do have some dogleg or grain that is not straight,, you can not just draw a bow on it and cut it out,, even as you go the grain my reveal something specially challenging for you,, you have to use your eye all the time,,,that being said,, a straight grain board ,, would be a nice start,, they shoot good and will give you the confidence to work a more expensive stave,, usually when I suggest this,, then the person says he wants a center cut deep handle etc etc etc,,,, no you want to make a bow that shoots,,, you can make all you bows you want as your experience grows,, just keep it simple and make a shooter,, and go from there,,, Jawge can suggest some basic designs that have a high success rate,,, I know you can do it this time,,, :)
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Thanks brad... I've built 3-4 red oak boards and have been successful with them. As far as primitive bows go I like the addition of a rest and never cut into the bow. I do the same with my BBO bows as well. I may just have to take a little more time, post more pictures before I go removing wood.
Could you all chime in as far as dimensions for a bow. Say 66 to 68 inches ttt
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something bout 1 1/4 at mid limb ,, tapering at the tips,, either bend handle or narrow deep handle with fades ,, what ever you like,,, just take your time,, there are alot of great designs,, I prefer simple,, this would be osage,,, little wider on a white wood,,, the main thing on a stave is to keep the taper even,, even when it roller coasters a bit you have to follow that,,,
you cant just make the belly flat,, you will have weak and strong spots that ruin your tiller,,,and break the bow,,
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Hickory and hackberry and other cheaper reliable woods would be a good starter. I wouldn't go osage until 3 or 4 bows in to building bows and only if they are cheap and pretty clean. That's how I started And it worked for me really good. Osage is very good but I think for the beginner the cheaper woods that can take a lot of abuse and you can have a bow survive even if it's not perfect. And when you feel your tillering is pretty good move to the better woods that make better bows. Jmho
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sorry everyone i guess im spoiled and forget osage doesnt just grow on trees everywhere >:D