Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jeffp51 on July 31, 2014, 02:05:27 am
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I think I need one. I was looking on ebay and saw all sorts. Mostly labeled vintage, but sometimes older is better than new from china. What should I look for and what should I avoid? straight edge or slightly curved? I see one called a flexcut sold new on ebay for 35 dollars. What do you all find most useful? I don't have a band saw, so I plan to use it for roughing out before I get to my rasp and scraper.
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I'd go vintage, and I like my straight edge but it seems curved would be more precise.
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I have an antique 11" curved edge that I really like. I looked up the flexcut you mentioned and all of the ones I found had a 5" cutting edge, which I think is way too small. I've never tried a straight edge, so I can't say much about them. I can say that I've never felt like I needed another one, the one I have is great. I would recommend an older one because they're build solid and they just seem to last forever. Just my two cents.
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I think a slight curve is handy, but I have used straight.
Anything with flex in the name has no place in my tool box, I don't want no floppy tool :o
Del
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I have a big old straight edge. I find I'm using it less and less lately... the gap between hatchet and coarse rasp is getting smaller. But I still would never get rid of it. In fact I will probably get another one, might try a slightly curved one and keep the straight one blunt for bark.
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I have a straight and a curved. I don't really see where one is better than the other. They both work fine. Look for good solid handles. Also check the blade for any nicks or other imperfections. You want a good clean blade. You might check your local antique stores. I got a great one at an antique store for $20.
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Vintage is good, checkout yard sales, farm auctions, Amish communities, fall Oktoberfests if you live in the Midwest.
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I like big and straight because that is what I started with, others might like curved.
I have bought a bunch of drawknives at flea markets, usually for $10 each. I bought one I didn't like after I got it home, the handles were tilted up from the blade, not on the same plane. I found this drawknife just about useless for working osage.
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The only knives I have are curved. I love vintage tools. As an aside, I wonder about the history of them. My main draw knife is one I inherited from my dad who I never saw use it even though he was a consumate wood worker. Why did he have one? Where did he get it?
He did in '89.
This knife is venerable.
I've certainly put it to good use.
Thanks, Dad!
Jawge
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I have a large straight one that is old and a hand forge small straight one that Keenan made. I just passed up an old curved one last Sunday at the Flea market for $25. I thought the price was too high. I could have bought a box of 30 vintage ones in different degrees of shape for $50 last year.
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I have a large straight one that is old and a hand forge small straight one that Keenan made. I just passed up an old curved one last Sunday at the Flea market for $25. I thought the price was too high. I could have bought a box of 30 vintage ones in different degrees of shape for $50 last year.
Oh... the dreaded "could have" :'( >:D
Yeah, but you probably got enough stuff anyhow :laugh: or is that a contradiction?
Del
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I would not buy a draw knife that was sharpened on a bench grinder. Most folks don't know how to sharpen tools using a grinder and they have a tendency to get the blade too hot. When the blade gets to hot it will lose some of its temper. The blade won't hold a good edge after losing its temper. It goes without saying that rust is not a friend of the blade. Like others have said, I like my old draw knifes.
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thanks to all the advice. I am really impressed with the helpfulness and politeness of this forum. I will start looking for the old stuff, I think.
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I have 7 draw knives, all vintage, some straight, others curved. 10 inches to 12 inches. I use them all. Some staves just like a different knife, and I keep trying untill one feels right. I will say the 12 inch with a slight curve is my go to for debarking and working a ring on osage.
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I would go curved, 10" or so blade and make sure the blade has room between the handles in case you need to get some stuff with the edge of the blade. Definitely go vintage but I have never tried new ones, all I know is vintage seems to be more reliable for more people
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I currently have 5, straight and curved blade. I use them all, which one depends on the wood I'm working. They all have a different personality. Draw knives are like bows, you can't have too many although you will find a favorite.
Don't discount a good 8". I have an old 8" Keen Kutter that is in "as new condition" that will work for most any application. My others are all 10".
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The Flexcut brand came highly recommended from the employees at my local wood working shop. He likes that they flex, and aren't prone to breaking or chipping if used wrong by a novice. They are also about half the cost of the Swiss Made ones. I have a 4 inch straight, and a 6 inch curved, I like them both.
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To each his own, I prefer straight handle drawknives or drawknives with a angled handled. I can't abide the drawknives with handles perpendicular to the blade. I know most folks use these, I just can't use them as well as I can those with 'gull wing handles' or straight handles. One excellent bowyer I know prefers the ones made in France with a ball on the handle. YMMV
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Hi
be very careful of refurbished draw blades. Ive had a few that have been reground and overheated, ruining the temper of the steel. Generally the older the better, unless you can get a friendly blade smith to make one for you one from good carbon steel, it all depends on how much you want to spend......
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If you can find an old "Worth" drawknife that is in pretty good shape, buy it. They are fine vintage tools. I have bought two.....and 8" and a 6", both with slightly curved blades. An 8" seems an ideal length for me. Yes, look for a blade that isn't nicked or too badly worn. And the back needs to be absolutely flat. The handles should be nice and tight. You don't want them rolling or flopping around. Check the big auction site. A Worth drawknife will show up once in a while.
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I have a few, big old straight gets used for roughing, that flexcut knife is really awesome for chasing rings though, has become one of my favorite tools, can be almost as delicate as a scraper but still hog off some wood when needed. It dosnt replace the big one for roughing and removing bark though. I am asking for the gransfors bruks draw knive for Christmas this year.
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I have some older,AKA vintage, drawknives and I do think that the slightly curved blades work better, for me, when roughing out and chasing a ring.
I also have a Mora carvers drawknife and that smaller double bevel flexible blade works well in some applications.
YMMV
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Just bought an 8 inch Dunlap draw knife. that Fred helped me find. I appreciate all the help. Can't wait for my new toy to arrive and start making some wood chips.
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Jeff, I think you did good. Even though that knife is old as dirt it still looks new. Good steel should last you a long time, like forever and on to your offspring.
I purchased an old 8" Keen Kutter in that condition (old but new) and paid almost twice what you did.
Now time to shave some wood and chase some rings.
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I have that 5 inch curved flexcut and it is nice for precise cuts but when chasing a growth ring and really hogging off wood I have found that a heavier straight edge is far easier to work with, especially in my super green hands. I make few mistakes with the larger heavier straight edged draw knife.
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The "problem" with the Keenkutter tools is that there is a lot of collector interest in that old brand and that drives up the price for us "users"...