Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tommytinker on July 16, 2014, 12:34:46 pm
-
If one were to rough out and de-bark a yew stave, and apply a few layers of sinew to the back before drying. Could this help prevent it from taking deflex while drying and save having to wait for sinew to dry at a later stage? Or is that crazy talk?
-
Sounds legit to me, but I would wait for someone with more experience to chime in.
-
You should watch Mike Yancey's new video........he'll tell you its the only way to do it right. He doesn't chase rings, remove sapwood or anything really. He slaps sinew on dripping wet green staves with TB3 and waits a month. Then covers it all in sawdust and glue, then rawhide over that. Then tillers the bow out.
Im not condoning any of it, just telling you what I watched.
-
I do agree with putting sinew on wet staves but I don't agree with the Tb3 I have used it on sinew quite a few times and I just don't like the cure time involved, I would say 1 year minimum for a proper cure with tb3. I will rub the back down with tb3 after the hide glue has cured.
-
I would at least take the stave down to floor tiller stage before adding the sinew. I've never sinewed a green stave so take my advise with a grain of salt.
-
I would strongly urge you to not put the sinew on too early. And by too early, I mean on the trunk of the tree while it is still standing in your neighbor's yard waiting to be cut down. I ain't joking, any idea what a pain in the keister it is to try to unwind sinew fibers from the chain of your saw???
Dang, son! On a green stave, it will work as bark or a high grade sealer to keep the back of the bow from cracking/checking. It can be done.
HOWEVER, sometimes there is wonky grain underneath and as the sinew stays slightly damp from the wet wood, your lateral stability is not excellent and you can have problems with string alignment thru the handle. I would recommend that you get it mostly dry and to floor tiller first.