Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Prarie Bowyer on July 07, 2014, 01:18:39 am
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Saw this on one of ravens beak bows. How do you do that?
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Carson (CMB) would be another good person to ask. He's done several of them to nice effect.
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I cut and glue the pcs together, then on the bow, then ruff shape with a razor and then a 4 in 1 rasp
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I cut and glue the pcs together, then on the bow, then ruff shape with a razor and then a 4 in 1 rasp
Same here, then use the tape trick to cut the leather to fit my oddball carving ;)
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Same here. get the cork sheets from office supply stores used to make cork boards, then just glue pieces to your handle/riser are to build it out, and shape with a 4-in-1 rasp once the glue is dry. works very well and is fairly easy to do, and it is very easy to get the shape you want.
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No no, I mean the cork is the finished handle.
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Well, it seems you would do everything except the wrap, then. Any pics?
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I have an old yew longbow with the cork wrap. It is very comfortable in the hand and has held up exceptionally well. It must have been sealed after being applied. Does anyone know what might have been used as a sealer?
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I use 5/16" thick cork of high quality. I taper one edge of a rectangular blank in preparation for a skive joint. I cut the blank to the desired width (handle 4" long = cork wrap 4" wide). I leave the length plenty long. I soak the cork in hot water with some hide glue granules added for good effect (very thin hide glue, i.e. still water thin). For those that need measurements...a tablespoon for a quart of water. After a good 30-40 min of soaking I apply it to the handle section using wood glue. Star with the skived edge down and wrap the remainder around. Leave plenty of overlap over the skive edge and trim the excess; leaving a blunt edge is ok. Then wrap itghtly with ace bandage and allow to dry thoroughly. Initial shaping with a razor knife works well. Then when roughed out shape is achieved, I apply shellac or wood glue. Sand once dry. Repeat with less coarse sand paper. 80 down to 220 works for me. Use the dust from each sanding to slurry with shellac or wood glue to fill the voids. It makes the most comfortable handle. It takes some time due to drying time of glue between sanding...that is one reason I prefer the shellac.
That is just how I do it. I sell the cork wraps on the website: echo archery
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Apply your finish as normal over the sealed cork. One good reason to use shellac is that most any finish will adhere nicely. I am not sure the same is true with the wood glue. If using wood glue, top-coating with shellac would likely allow most any finish to applied over it.
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lOVE SHELAC.