Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: David_Daugherty on May 19, 2014, 08:03:25 pm
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I am working on a recurve that I want to back with rattle snake skin. My first attempts was a disaster...so I must be doing something wrong. Here is what I did- first dried the skin then applied TB 2 to back of bow. Laid down the skin and wrapped it with ace bandage wrap. When I took off the wrap and tried to trim the skin it was a disaster. The skin was rigid and was difficult to cut in the contour of the bow. I ended up ripping it off and sanding the bow back down. should I have trimmed the skin while it was still hydrated and glued it prior to it becoming completely dried out? Any advice would be appreciated.
David
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I dont wrap mine with anything. I just glue the back of the bow with tb2 or tb3 and lay the skin down pushing out any air bubbles. I usually check it again for bubbles after an hour or so. Once it is dry I trim the edges with a sharp razor knife.
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+1
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David, there is a really good build along on you tube about working with and applying snake skins. In to the playlist on this link and there is a set of videos on this subject. The guy doing the videos is a PA member as well.
I hope this helps, Patrick.
http://m.youtube.com/user/BoarriorBows
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I apply the skin wet. Rub out all the air pockets with my fingers. When it's dry, I use a fine file and file the edge to cut off the extra skin.
DBar
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I rehydrate the skin before gluing it down. That way the skin if more flexible and it lays down on the contours of the bows back and it accepts the glue better. Depending on how thick the skin I sometimes use a wrap but with copperhead and some western D backs no wrap is necessary because they are thin and lay well without it. I do size the bow with thinned TBIII, let it set then glue down the skin by adding glue to both the skin and the bows back.
When I do wrap a skin I remove the wrap after about an hour before the glue sets completely. I do rough trimming with scissors then and remove air bubbles or excess glue pockets while the glue is still somewhat wet. After the glue has cured out completely, generally after 24 hours, I'll go over the raw edges with a smooth bastard file to dress it then fine emory cloth before adding a finish.
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I do exactly as Pat does. Only I trim my extra skin off with an exacto knife.
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Thanks guys, this helps a lot. The video was great lebhuntfish. I think I will use a file though instead of sandpaper to trim the skins after completed. I will tackle this again over the weekend and hope I can post pics soon. Again, thanks for all the help.
David
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I apply the skin wet. Rub out all the air pockets with my fingers. When it's dry, I use a fine file and file the edge to cut off the extra skin.
DBar
I do the same as Danzn Bar. I loosely wrap the skin with string just enough to keep the edges from curling up.
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Your welcome David, I have watched them several times. It always makes me cringe wen he gets after the edges with the sheetrock sander.
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I haven't done many, but followed Gordon's example and used hide glue (off-brand unflavored gelatin). No wrap necessary as the skin literally sucks itself down. When dry, just trim and sand the edges carefully.
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I haven't done many, but followed Gordon's example and used hide glue (off-brand unflavored gelatin). No wrap necessary as the skin literally sucks itself down. When dry, just trim and sand the edges carefully.
I do the same thing. Have not done too many but it seems to work great.
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Here you go, leave out the super glue step as it is unnecessary. I have done a dozen or more this way. Like previously mention, wrapping a skin is a waste of time. Unless you have a high crown bow back you are only putting pressure on the sides of the bow. My thumbs put repeated pressure on every section of the bow while the glue is setting up which is only a half hour or so.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=045038;p=1