Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Knoll on May 07, 2014, 08:18:40 pm
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My 1st post here on PA.
Am in the midst of 1st bow project . . . holmegaard inspired stick that's tillered down to 0.4 " thick inner limbs. 4" handle, 2" inner fades, 15" innerlimbs, 2" outer fades , and 12" outerlimbs. Target weight is 45 @ 28. It's a red oak board . . . 65" NtN.
Pictures attached
I've read that understanding this bow's tiller is easier to critique if unbending outer limbs are cropped out of pics. So that's what I did for several of the pics. In these pics bow is braced just a few inches and drawn to 16". Draw weight is currently @ 21# at this draw diatance.
Being as this is my 1st attempt at bow creation, I have little faith in my judgement when it comes to the tiller.
Whatcha think? Your input will be much appreciated.
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So far it looks pretty good. Whats your target weight.? What wood its it.? Bow length etc....
"tiller is easier to critique if unbending outer limbs are cropped out of pics. " I would just post pics as they are..
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Thanks for comment. Orig post is updated.
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Looks good at this point. What poundage is it at the 16" mark?
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Take a 4 inch straight edge and check the gap from handle fade to lever fade. If the gap is even and consistent, tiller is good, if not, make adjustments accordingly. Lay off the handle fades completely for a while. The transition from handle to working limb should be a seamless one without any angles. Yours looks to be a bit abrupt. Sweeping curves, no angles. Could be a problem spot, just get the limb bending less there and progressively more as you move away from the fade. Good start!
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The curved transition in the fade is a feature that stymies even some of the experienced guys. Work on that before you do anything else.
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SlimBob . . . yeah, my handle design sucks. "Sucks", that's one of my more technical terms.
Understood re too much bend at handle fades. Will give the 4" block a looksee and devote wood removal to outer half of working limbs. Think am down to scraper/sandpaper stage, correct?
Given that outer limbs are 12.5" long (not incl 2"fades), taper in width from 1.5 to 0.56, and taper in thickness from .75 to .50. And given that don't want those outer limbs to bend. What say ya'll re potential for further tapering in width and/or thickness of outers?
Thanks, again, to all for taking the time to chime in. I continue to be appreciative of comments/suggestions.
This bow wood removal is a bit more touchy than shaping slingshots!
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I couldn't venture a guess on that one. If you want to get them as lite as possible you can narrow until you sense a little flex at full draw. I just don't have any experience with RO so let someone else answer that one.
Yes sir, it's time to use a scraper and sandpaper.
Your handle design can and will improve as you make more yes, but your making bows while others just read about it. Good luck with it.
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Craaaaack! At the handle fade. >:(
Oh well, will start another after Mothers' Day.
:laugh:
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I can remember, some years back, going thru a rash of last minute failures, and how dejected I felt at one point. Now, I think about all I've learned since then, and the bows I have whittled out, and the people I've met as a result of this....All smiles for me. And the victories would not be nearly as sweet tasting without the earlier bitter pills I swallowed. Figure out what could have been done better and fix it on the next one. I still do that on all of 'em. :)
EDIT I would add that attempting a molly for your first bow was not a call I would have recommended. Add to that a RO board. Very tough build, even for someone with experience. Grab another board and simplify your next one. I'm not a board bow guy but there are many good ones on here, bubby to name one, that can help you with dimensions etc. A nice simple pyramid or flat bow design with lots of working limb to work with.
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Whats your target weight.? What wood its it.? Bow length etc....
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First post has it all bow101
RO
65ntn
45# 28"
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First post has it all bow101
RO
65ntn
45# 28"
Ever since I switched over to Firefox the fonts are all hazy, went into options but can't seem to do much about smoothing out the font.
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My best advice would be to learn how to floor tiller,and tiller by brace with board bows ,cuz everything is pretty even to start with.there was to much bend in the inner limbs and mid to outer were static.I try to keep all of the set in the mid limbs.checking where the bow is taking set is key.if set is showing up in the inner fade area this translates to a boat load of set at the tips!good luck on the next one!
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You should increase the amount of working limb on your next one. That will certainly boost its chance of survival
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That was one tough project for a "first bow". Even tough for an advanced bowyer. I'm not surprised it broke in the fade. Others have expressed their concerns about the handle fades, and for good reason. I'm sorry your bow broke, but I think you've learned a lot from it!
Start a new bow, a more simple one. Get the basics of shaping and tillering first, before you consider a difficult design such as a Holmegard or Mollegabet (as this one is called). Just a simple flatbow.
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This was not actually the first. It was the 3rd.
I had beginners luck on the first. It was a mollegabet too. Made from a PINE board with fibreglass drywall tape as backing. I was incredibly lucky as it stayed together and ended up at 31# @ 28".
Next one and this one were boards also . . . RO. Both failing at handle fades. This one made it much further than the previous before the dreaded "craaaack".
Am having fun and definitely view as learning experiences. Unfortunately, I've always been a slow learner. The critiques and encouragement have been positive influence on the experience.
Next week will see the start of another.
Stay safe,
Michael