Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Don Case on April 16, 2014, 02:49:53 pm
-
I'm working on this Ocean Spray bow. It has a big lump 8 1/2" from the tip. You can see the knot and beside it there is a hole. I can stick a piece of wire about 1/2" into the hole and wobble it around some. I'm guessing it opens up to about 1/4" to 3/8" inside. The knot looks iffy to me and I'm wondering if I should drill the knot out? The knot is just starting to show on the belly and I still have quite a bit of wood to take off. I'm toying with the idea of opening the whole area up but I'm afraid that will compromise the back too much. Any suggestions please.
Don
-
when in doubt drill it out
-
Drilling out rotten wood doesn't strengthen anything, it just keeps it from falling out later and messing up your finish. The integrity of the wood is as good as it can be now, or if its removed. Id clean any loose stuff up and call it good.
-
You can see in the bottom picture that I've left it bit thicker where the lump is. Do you think I'm being over cautious? In the top picture you can see that I followed the grain around the outside.
-
As tall as that knot is, Id keep my belly flat with the rest of the limb and leave that area a mega fuzz flat. Id consider that a solid knot.
-
Sorry, mega fuzz???
-
A tiny bit!
-
Thanks, back to rasping ;D ;D
-
I would not drill it out because you could be violating the back ring. I would pick out the loose stuff from inside the knot. If it goes all the way through to the belly leave it a hole or fill it with saw dust and super glue.
-
A shame. Good luck with that Don. I just cleaned up some OS I cut last year. One piece is 1 1/2" thick then sort of branches out about two thirds of the way having a good curve in it. I don't have a photo yet. I really hate to start on such a project knowing deep down after 2 hours of work it will break in the section where the branch off shoot is.
If I leave the OS whole I can use it for tip overlays or other stuff. ;)
-
don os is some tough stuff and hard to bust I say go for it just like pearl said
-
A shame. Good luck with that Don. I just cleaned up some OS I cut last year. One piece is 1 1/2" thick then sort of branches out about two thirds of the way having a good curve in it. I don't have a photo yet. I really hate to start on such a project knowing deep down after 2 hours of work it will break in the section where the branch off shoot is.
If I leave the OS whole I can use it for tip overlays or other stuff. ;)
Did you have anything important planned for that two hours? ;) ;) This stave was collected in Sept, I think. I bandsawed it in half, leaving it as thick as possible in the handle section. Its weight has followed the RH for a month so I'm pretty sure it's dry. I glued a piece of mahogany on the handle but after I finish it there won't be much left. I'm tillering it now and I have a good feeling about it. Oh, I've jinxed it now haven't I.
-
OS takes a long time to dry i'd watch for checks
-
OS takes a long time to dry i'd watch for checks
I'm "reasonably" confident in this one but as I build my stock of staves I plan on a one year minimum. I started this hobby/obsession last August and I am pushing the envelope here cause I'm sick of waiting.
-
I know that feeling Don ;)
-
If it were my stave, I'd fill that hole and the area around the knot with super glue till it wouldn't absorb any more. And I wouldn't leave that area on the belly side so thick. I'd scoop it out slightly in the center (think Simson hollow limb style). I learned my lesson on leavin those area overly thick and non bending because all you are doing is making a big pressure point there where it's not bending the slightest and all the tension pressure is on the back side at the knot where it's the weakest. By relieving pressure on the compression side by scooping, you are also equalizing the pressure somewhat on the backside knot (IMHO). I'm learning that consistent limb thickness taper is most important and that is a big thick spot in your limb thickness taper (and it does show in the non bending area of your brace and tiller post). You do have a little extra width in that area so it can handle being a little thinner than it is even with the knot. OS can handle it.
-
If it was mine I'd leave it as is except cleaning the rotten wood out. It looks like you have left enough wood around the outside of the knot to me. I've done worse on Vine maple.